Chain questions

Regina chain, makers one of only two chains I've had that have snapped despite being well lubed and with less than 5,000 miles on them, the other was an RK.

I'd rather take the advice of my daughter's pet hamster

Originally Posted by warmshed

Exactly. good find Kiethcrm. has nothing to do with riders weight. Just adjust for correct slack at tightest point. Which equates to 30mm unladen.

I am going to give up on this one because it's like talking to a brick feckin' wall.

People, either listen to these two sycophants or listen to the people who actually have a clue about bikes and have been maintaining their own and a host of other's successfully for a total of about 90 odd years. The choice is yours.

I'm bowing out of this before Capt Sensible here squeezes me into saying something that will get me banned from the forum.

[KeithCRM]

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Regina chain, makers one of only two chains I've had that have snapped despite being well lubed and with less than 5,000 miles on them, the other was an RK.

I'd rather take the advice of my daughter's pet hamster

Oh dear! Any clue as to why they snapped? 'Cause i've not experienced this issue in over 30 years of riding and maintaining bikes.

I think I'll also duck out -

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Regina chain, makers one of only two chains I've had that have snapped despite being well lubed and with less than 5,000 miles on them, the other was an RK.

I'd rather take the advice of my daughter's pet hamster

Ah, rather take advice from a hamster rather than Suzuki and a leading chain manufacturer? wonder why you have chains snapping? never had one in 45 years of riding!


Daveo2010, To go back to your original post, If you increase either sprocket size, you affect (reduce) the amount of slack as the swinging arm nears the tightest point so be careful.

Originally Posted by KeithCRM

Some advice from a chain manufacturer:

http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_an...how_to05.shtml

They reckon 10 - 15 mm tension with sprockets and swingarm pivot lined up. Could equate to 25 - 30 mm without rider???

Rather impractical to do though, unless you happen to have the rear shock off. Would be interesting to see what 10-15mm does equate to with bike on side-stand. Can't be arsed removing the shock to find out mind.

FWIW I set mine to an easy 30mm slack whilst on paddock stand i.e. no real pressure required to move it that much, and it hasn't needed any adjustment for a long while ~ 7k miles.

Maybe the real answer is that those who are competent at checking/adjusting it also make sure it is clean and well lubed which IMHO is just as if not more important. YMMV

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by rictus01

are you suggesting people can't lean over and check there chain whilst on the bike?

i cant.....

[rictus01]

Originally Posted by Bibio

i cant.....

not to worry I can't play the ....


Anyway, theory or practise , I'm not that fussed,what I want is what works and delivers the best performance and longevity, I go threw a chain and sprockets about every 9-10 months using the method I currently do, that's somewhere in the 40-45k miles a years, as a C&S change is in the region of £100 each time; I usually get at least a £50 saving each year on the costs, I tend to adoped a cost effective approach where possible, is anyone showing a way to improve on this?

I'm aware chain care is more than just adjustment, but to suggest adjustment has no bearing is foolish, but I don't clean my chains and never have*, of course as anyone who does serious mileage knows a scottoiler is a must, generally it'll be fit, adjust, bed-in, adjust after a 100 miles, then just checking until significant wear appears, by which time the chain will need replacing (indicated by needing regular and constant adjustment)

I've purposely quantified how often I change, over what mileage and given a rough costing, I'd like to see the same from others for a real world comparison.


* off road bikes not withstanding.
Cheers Mark.

[yorkie_chris]

A lot of people have their own ways of doing things.

The chain is at it's slackest with the suspension unloaded, and at it's tightest at nearly full bump when the swingarm pivot, sprocket and axle describe a straight line.

There should be some slack under all possible conditions of suspension movement.

These are facts of matter. How you set that slack whether it be under conditions of rider sag/static/unloaded/whatever is up to you.

Personally I set it by either estimation or on the abba stand, as this is repeatable and not dependant on stiction of suspension and getting into yoga positions.

Originally Posted by SVMAT

Just to note i have stretched chains in past from taking pillions without upping the preload. Extra weight needs adjusting for as unfortunately the swingarm doesnt pivot from the front sproket and thus the chain gets tight.

That's wrong.

There should be enough slack that the chain is not overstressed through any possible suspension movement whether that be sag from a pillion or a solo rider hitting a big bump.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by rictus01

I go threw a chain and sprockets about every 9-10 months using the method I currently do, that's somewhere in the 40-45k miles a years, as a C&S change is in the region of £100 each time; I usually get at least a £50 saving each year on the costs, I tend to adoped a cost effective approach where possible, is anyone showing a way to improve on this?

I think you could do better if changing the front sprocket sooner. It has seemed on all of mine the FS has hooked and worn the chain.
Whether an extra £10 or so every 10k would result in an improvement in chain life to see back the extra expense I dunno?

[rictus01]

truely cost effective would actually be turning it around (that's not a suggestion by the way... ) ..... but given the time effort and expense .... that's why I said "where possible" .

Cheers Mark