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04-08-20, 05:41 PM | #21 |
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Location: Lancashire
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Re: Fork laquering
Ive got some gt85, it’s good stuff. Going to give it a good dose of ACF 50 while it’s stripped down a bit too. I’ve lacquered the forks is it still beneficial to polish it? Borrowed a 2t low profile car jack off a lad at work for tomorrow so I can fit the shock. I think I need to trim the battery box off a little to fit it in. I have just found a photo guide on here and it looks very easy to do. Will take me longer to tension my chain and align my rear wheel afterwards than fit it by the looks of it . My mate at work still hasn’t made me my spacers. Going to have to get my hands dirty tomorrow
Last edited by DamoK4; 05-08-20 at 05:24 AM. |
04-08-20, 05:46 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Fork laquering
Quote:
Note: Acrylic paint is very susceptible to chemical damage from fuel/brake fluid/Carb-Brake cleaner e.g most solvents but light damage can be compounded out etc.
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"Stultus est sicut stultus facit" Last edited by R1ffR4ff; 04-08-20 at 05:52 PM. |
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04-08-20, 09:40 PM | #23 | |
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Re: Fork laquering
Quote:
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04-08-20, 10:06 PM | #24 |
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Re: Fork laquering
Not a painter, but brought up with coach paint and the cellulose. I have only used 2 pack with a clear coat which was always considered not for amateurs as an air fed mask was highly recommended on pain of death.
Hard finishes need a good key as more likely to brittle chip. But done properly are far more durable. I know you have done your forks. so not appropriate but. Safety first. read and understand instructions. Use a decent gun, understand you mix, pressures, flow. Proper water seperation and don't use lines that have has had an oiler I have lines with different fittings to ensure this. Workshop and workpiece temperatures. Cleanliness. Gun, mixing cups, panel wipe, tack rags etc, Beware of reactions between different coats. prep, prep and prep, base, W&D, base, W&D, final base, compound, lacquer,, scrub, lacquer polish. the best body shops I have worked with (Probably 10 where I learned panel beating, rolling, shrinking, leading etc over 40 years ago and kept in contact with) pay well but rework is at the painters own cost. So they save money by investing the upfront work.
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05-08-20, 05:28 AM | #25 |
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Re: Fork laquering
Looks like you know a lot about paint. I know a good body shop guy who did my side fairings recently, they are amazing. Just trying to cut costs/learn as I go along.
I’ll keep you guys posted, I’ll hopefully have the rear shock in today depending on the wife, I’ve spent the last few days in the garage I might have to show my face for a bit |
05-08-20, 05:51 AM | #26 |
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Location: Lancashire
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Re: Fork laquering
Do you think aluminium will be ok as a fork spacer? We have 32mm ally hollow bar at work I can cut up to save machining some. There’s no weird reactions or anything is there? It has about a 3.5mm wall thickness so will be strong
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05-08-20, 06:35 AM | #27 |
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Re: Fork laquering
People often use plastic plumbing pipe.
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05-08-20, 09:10 AM | #28 |
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Re: Fork laquering
I’ve got some but my saw won’t cut it straight. I work in engineering so I thought I’d just make something today out of spare bar we have
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05-08-20, 04:13 PM | #29 |
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Re: Fork laquering
Machined some out of ally. Bored it out with a thicker wall thickness as I was worried about the strength with the original steel one being so thin. Still only a tad thicker than the pvc. 35x55mm with a 29mm bore. Should do the trick. Just got the car jack home so might get a go at the rear shock tonight and do the forks tomorrow
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06-08-20, 05:23 PM | #30 |
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Re: Fork laquering
It’s going back together now. 94mm air gap if I am correct. Do your forks go flush with the top yoke? Mine had a 5mm protrusion before I took them off. Also, my new shock is 2mm longer shall I raise it a bit?
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