How does the cooling system work?

Firstly want to say this forum is excellent! and is a great help.

Following on from my thread to check valve clearances here http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=107909 I have started to disassemle the bike.

I am taking it slowly step by step and today all I managed to do was remove the fairing. Apart from the wellnuts being an absolute git to remove from the screen it all went to plan.

Next i will be draining the coolant and removing the radiator.
QUESTION 1: Looking through the refill procedure in the haynes manual it seems that you fill the system right up from the radiator cap but not the reservoir bottle? Am i correct in thinking that it "draws" the coolant into the reservoir bottle automatically?

QUESTION 2: After removing the radiator I will be removing the fuel tank. The haynes manual says to "place a rag under the the fuel supply hose to catch any residual fuel". Will the fuel not just keep on flowing out? Bit worried as i have a almost full tank (ok not the wisest move!) and don't want petrol everywhere.

Sorry for the long post.
thanks

[embee]

Coolant - fill slowly at the rad cap up to completely full. Gently squeeze the hoses to help purge air from the system. You are unlikely to get all the air out, so it will take more in once it "cycles".
Fill the "make-up" bottle up to the line.

You can start the engine with the rad cap off if you like, it will allow air to escape as it gets through to the rad. You can safely run it open like this until the thermostat just starts to open and the rad begins to heat up.
At this point stop the engine, top up the rad, and fit the cap.

When the system heats fully it will push some coolant out of the cap and down the pipe into the expansion or "make-up" bottle. When it then cools down again after you stop the coolant will conttract and draw coolant back into the system to "make-up" the volume. After a couple of hot/cold cycles it will have stabilised and ejected all the air. Check the level in the bottle is at the mark, top up if necessary.

I've found the curvey fills and purges very easily, not done a pointy though.

Remember, never remove the rad cap when hot.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by mattb200

QUESTION 2: After removing the radiator I will be removing the fuel tank. The haynes manual says to "place a rag under the the fuel supply hose to catch any residual fuel". Will the fuel not just keep on flowing out? Bit worried as i have a almost full tank (ok not the wisest move!) and don't want petrol everywhere.

Sorry for the long post.
thanks

The fuel tank on the curvy has a vacuum operated fuel tap which is designed to close up without manifold vacuum being present.

The pointy, afaik has an electrical fuel pump, so you should be OK.

If in doubt, plug the hose with a screwdriver bit, or the blunt end of a drillbit. Oh yeah and don't switch the ignition on if the connectors are still connected because that will spray fuel everywhere.

thanks embee, yorkie_chris.

Hopefully the next stage of my *big* (for me) service will go as smoothly as today althought I doubt it! I usually run in to problems when working on the bike but tends to be the rubbish bolts/screws that get rounded off.

Still am in no rush so will take my time...

Purchased some hex bits yesterday and pleased I did, make a big difference.

[Blue Flame]

Originally Posted by mattb200

....

QUESTION 2: After removing the radiator I will be removing the fuel tank. The haynes manual says to "place a rag under the the fuel supply hose to catch any residual fuel". Will the fuel not just keep on flowing out? Bit worried as i have a almost full tank (ok not the wisest move!) and don't want petrol everywhere.

Sorry for the long post.
thanks

You do not need to take the fuel tank off despite the Haynes Manual saying you do. It's just a bit more fiddly but definately doable that's all.

Just did this job for the first time myself http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=107448

Filling the radiator is a bit fiddly but time and patience is your friend.

Good luck.

[yorkie_chris]

Makes it a site easier though!

[Blue Flame]

I also found that when refilling the radiator it was usefull to regularily give the main hoses either side of the radiator a squeeze to help to push the air out of the system.

Thanks Blueflame,

just been reading your earlier post for some tips.
what size is the timing inspection cap?

Thanks

[Blue Flame]

I think it was a 10mm Allen key type socket. I will check tomorrow.

The key for this one was whether your existing 17mm socket will fit when you remove the crankshaft end cap as despite having a 17mm socket it was too thick to fit as you will have read in my post. There are some good tips from some others on my post about getting round this if it is an issue.

I have also just taken delivery of Carbtune gauges for the throttle body synchronisation which is the next part of this excercise after the valve clearances have been done.

yep did read in your earlier post northwind said that you could put it in gear and wheel it forward for the same effect?

Morgan carbtune, I got this about 6 months ago.
Top quality kit in my opinion. Worked great. a tad expensive maybe...

The most difficult part I found doing this was getting the rubber caps off the throttle bodies - absolute nightmare. Got them back on using very long nose pliers but withouth the little metal clip. Seems to be ok like that