Rear Brake Caliper - is it beyond redemption?

[rockster]

Hi all, would appreciate some advice.

Set off on the bike yesterday (K3 naked), and found that the rear brake is delivering zero stopping power. Thought I'd best check the pads in case I've got some ACF50 on them or something. Can't even get the plug that covers the pad pin off, never mind the pin itself.

So I went to remove the whole caliper for better access, but found that after I removed the bolt it's near impossible to pivot the caliper up on the other pin. Finally got it moving with the help of a breaker bar but there's no way it's going to come off the hanger. I've now dropped the rear wheel and removed the hanger and caliper together.

I was going to get stuck in with some plusgas and a heat source, but I'm now wondering if it's worth it, or is the caliper likely damaged beyond repair? I'm assuming that the caliper is supposed to slide along this pin in operation, so if it's stuck as tightly as this is there any chance of getting it moving freely enough, or is it most likely bent / deformed in some way?

Incidentally, I found that the pad nearest the wheel was down to the metal, although there's still plenty of wear on the piston-side pad. This seems strange, as I'd have thought that if the caliper isn't sliding properly on the front pin, then most likely the pad on the piston side would have worn first. Any ideas why this would be?

Thanks for any assistance,

Scott

[garynortheast]

I think I'd probably find a decent second hand caliper and use that. Take the original one to bits at your leisure and see if you can get it sorted again.

What Garry said for a quick turn round. Yours will probably be serviceable, but sounds like it will take some blood sweat and tears to get it nice n' clean and working again. You could always sell it once you've refurbished it...

Only thing about buying second hand is I'd want to service it myself anyway before using it; unless you're buying a refurbished one from a reputable source.

Originally Posted by rockster

Incidentally, I found that the pad nearest the wheel was down to the metal, although there's still plenty of wear on the piston-side pad. This seems strange, as I'd have thought that if the caliper isn't sliding properly on the front pin, then most likely the pad on the piston side would have worn first. Any ideas why this would be?

When you release the brake, the piston is free to move back, releasing the pressure on that pad. But if the caliper is stuck on the carrier pins, then the inner pad is always rubbing on the disc.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Miss_Undaztood

When you release the brake, the piston is free to move back, releasing the pressure on that pad. But if the caliper is stuck on the carrier pins, then the inner pad is always rubbing on the disc.

Yup. Common problem.

Your size 10 with a load of hydraulic advantage is stronger than whatever returning force there is in mechanism.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by Philbo

What Garry said for a quick turn round. Yours will probably be serviceable, but sounds like it will take some blood sweat and tears to get it nice n' clean and working again. You could always sell it once you've refurbished it...

Only thing about buying second hand is I'd want to service it myself anyway before using it; unless you're buying a refurbished one from a reputable source.

i would do it that way. Less aggro and resalable part (possibly) if you sort the other 1 out