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27-08-07, 12:46 AM | #1 |
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Mechanics of Clutch Adjustment
I've been looking through the clutch adjustment posts here and it mostly solved my problem, but I still had a few questions.
I just did the standard maintenance item to adjust my clutch and it changed the bite point of the clutch a whole lot. I'm used to (and like) having the clutch bit close to the handlebars. I feel like it gives me more control when I use it in turns. After the adjustment it now bites way near the top of the movement (way away from the handle bars). It also seems to to have a much shorter distance between fully disengaged and fully engaged. So my questions are about how exactly all these adjustment points change things. The adjuster bolts at the top (up near your hand) ... what are those controlling? The adjuster bolts at the bottom of the chain. You have the two nuts (top and bottom) and I think the metal end of the cable there is adjustable too. Yeah? What's that changing? And finally, the screw that has the lock nut on it, what's that adjust? Basically I'm looking for some help on figuring how how I can control ... 1. Where the clutch bites 2. How much distance the clutch moves between fully engaged and disengaged 3. How much slack there is in the handle from when it's fully released until the cable started to pull. Thanks for the help. |
27-08-07, 09:05 AM | #2 |
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Re: Mechanics of Clutch Adjustment
I believe they all adjust the cable, taking up any slack. I have the same problem; I prefer the clutch to "bite" closer to the handlebar, this is easier for my slow control - but a properly (i.e. handbook) adjusted clutch does give smoother gear-changes, and I suspect it also gives less drag on the clutch-plates, so more mechanically sympathetic?
The SV clutch isnt too heavy, i gues you can get away with using two fingers on it when riding slowly, to keep better control of the steering and the clutch when its all properly adjusted? Matt |
27-08-07, 09:58 AM | #3 |
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Re: Mechanics of Clutch Adjustment
Basically I'm looking for some help on figuring how how I can control ...
1. Where the clutch bites - cable/leaver slack 2. How much distance the clutch moves between fully engaged and disengaged - angle of the dangle* 3. How much slack there is in the handle from when it's fully released until the cable started to pull. - cable/leaver slack *The dangle is the little actuating leaver arm by the front sprocket. In the manual it tells you what angle this should be set at ... as the in and out movement on the worm gear (converts rotational movement into horizontal movement) has a direct relationship to this angle, it is the key to changing the ratio of leaver to clutch movement ... just think about the geometry of it ... if you want to change the properties, then change this angle ... |
27-08-07, 06:21 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Mechanics of Clutch Adjustment
Quote:
the adjusters on each end of the cable adjust the cable |
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27-08-07, 06:37 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Mechanics of Clutch Adjustment
Quote:
Also the adjuster at the handlebar is for minor adjustment only. There is not a whole lot of adjustment there. Adjust the clutch first, then when that is correct you can use the adjusters at the clutch end of the cable to determine where along the travel of the clutch lever, you get the clutch bite. |
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