Chain questions

Hi all,

A few chain related questions:
- I'm using this Wurth dry chain lube stuff: http://www.amazon.co.uk/WURTH-HIGH-P.../dp/B001MQ035I. It does seem to have nice properties, v clean etc. and I suppose it's no surprise given the name, but the chain does seem very 'dry'. Y'all reckon I'm ok with that alone though? Any idea how to know when it needs a fresh spray when it's always dry anyway?

- Chain adjustment - I've done it several times on other bikes, but never been totally confident I have the tension right (a mechanic yelled at me one time for having the chain 'bowstring tight' even though I'd followed the haynes manual to the letter and couldn't tell the difference between his setting after he'd fixed it and mine before... possible I just set it on a loose spot I suppose) - anyway, can anyone walk me through the process on the SV please, like you're talking to a 5 year old. Side stand or paddock stand as options, don't care which I use, whatever's easiest.

- I fancy having a go with 15/47 sprockets. Do you have to break/join the chain to change the rear? I know you're supposed to change both sprockets and the chain, but suppose I wanted to save money up front and just bought a rear sprocket - what's the damage - just increased wear on the new rear or carnage all round?

MTIA,

Dave.

Hey Dave,
Thinking of the same question for your first points, interested in hearing what people have to say!

For point 3 - It depends how old and worn your old chain was I suppose (I'm guessing it had a decent amount of wear). Chains and sprockets wear into each other, so replacing one will mean there are points on the sprocket where the chain applies more force. Thus it's way more likely to eat the metal of the teeth. More cost effective to replace as a set i.e. you don't change your sprocket every 6 months!

Originally Posted by sp07tjwh

Hey Dave,
For point 3 - It depends how old and worn your old chain was I suppose (I'm guessing it had a decent amount of wear). Chains and sprockets wear into each other, so replacing one will mean there are points on the sprocket where the chain applies more force. Thus it's way more likely to eat the metal of the teeth. More cost effective to replace as a set i.e. you don't change your sprocket every 6 months!

Yeah existing ones are at least a couple of years old (not many miles though) so I guess I'll wait til I can afford/need to replace the lot.
Ta,
D

On the point of adjustment I suspect you did adjust at a loose spot. I made that mistake a while ago and thankfully noticed something felt odd as I wheeled the bike off the stand. If I hadn't I'm quite sure I would have ruined *something*, given I could barely push the bike along when it hit the tight spot.

[rictus01]

you shouldn't have any tight (or loose) spots on a well maintained chain, so check and address that first, I worked on a few bikes that have used the Wurth dry chain lube and to be honest it's not easy to tell when it's needed again as I've commented it looked a bit dry even when it was done under 100 miles ago, if I was to use it I think I'd stick to the general rule of luding every 250 miles or so, fortunately I'm a scottoiler user so it isn't an issue.

Cheers Mark.

Very good point there Rictus... I omitted to mention that the first thing I did after readjusting the chain was arrange for a new one.

[rictus01]

always a wise move, wisdom dictates you don't take chances with chains or brakes.

as to the adjustment question raised, centre span on the bottom run freeplay of 20-30mm (about an inch to you dinosaurs), that's from as far down as it'll go to as far up.

but what people fail to take into consideration is they adjust it without a rider on board, so recheck it once you sit on the bike, you'll find it's tighter than before, slacken it off until it's to the corret measurement with you on it; obviously the amount will depending on the rider.

Cheers Mark.

Chain and sprockets are 3000 miles old, I checked receipts.
How obvious would a tight spot on a chain be? I did check the 125 on the centre stand and I couldn't appreciate any tightness. I guess I'm probably above average in chain maintenance, I actually do clean it and lube it pretty regularly.

Anyway, I suppose the thing to do is do the adjustment and thoroughly check the slack all the way round.

Thanks Mark - just as a double check, haynes says 20-30mm slack on the side stand - I'm looking for 30mm slack with me sat on the bike, off the sidestand?

Cheers,

D

[Luckypants]

Originally Posted by rictus01

but what people fail to take into consideration is they adjust it without a rider on board, so recheck it once you sit on the bike, you'll find it's tighter than before, slacken it off until it's to the corret measurement with you on it; obviously the amount will depending on the rider.

Originally Posted by Daveo2010

Thanks Mark - just as a double check, haynes says 20-30mm slack on the side stand - I'm looking for 30mm slack with me sat on the bike, off the sidestand?

Funny that, the Suzuki manual says 30mm of slack on the side stand too. My VFR manuals says 35mm on the centre stand... I don't know of any manual that specifies adjusting the chain with the rider on the bike...

That's because it is practically impossible to adjust the chain whilst sat on the bike so don't listen to anyone who says you do.