SV650S project

[henrythenoob]

Hey guys,

I'm planning my first project on my SV650S and I have a few questions.

The project is mainly to turn my SV650S on a naked version, so, these are the plans:

1 - Front fairings will be removed
2 - New indicators
3 - Clutch and brake levers will be replaced with new ones

Those are the things that I can do kind of immediately as I have the parts.

And here is where it starts to get blurry for me...I want to take out the fairings, install a new headlight, install a new gauge cluster and handlebar conversion kit. You see...I'm not a mechanic and have never worked on motorbikes, my first time working on a motorbike was last week changing oil for this motorbike and it was quite successful (the bike didn't explode or turn into a big fire, plus the oil level is perfect).

For instruments I would like some suggestions, I was looking for some SV650N Gauge Clusters but couldn't find anything, I live in Ireland and looked on ebay but wasn't able to find anything for a SV650N only for the SV650S. If I can't find any used cluster, is there any other cluster I could use? I've seen the Vapor panel but I'm not sure if I feel comfortable needing to solder stuff.

About the headlight, I've seen a few LED Universal Headlights (like this one https://amzn.eu/d/8yaobTj). Is there anything needed to this one? Apart from the original wiring from the SV650?

And finally the mod I'm more excited about, the Handlebar Conversion Kit. I only found it in 2 websites, one of them is louis.ie and the other one was an UK website, but being in Ireland means paying the product + taxes, and it'll be more expensive than buying from louis.ie. Do you think this is something I could do myself? I rang my local garage and they mentioned it would cost me around 300 euro + the kit to install it and, I rather spend 300 euro in other things for the bike if possible. Would it be something doable for someone that has little experience with motorbikes?

[Seeker]

Welcome. You have set yourself some impressive tasks (disclaimer: none of which I've done). Fortunately, it's a fairly well trodden path and using google to search this site reveals many threads:
https://www.google.com/search?client...ked+conversion


Plug and play gauge might be harder to resolve. Koso are another manufacturer of (expensive) aftermarket gauges but their plug/play SV adaptor is only for fuel injected models.
https://kosoeurope.com/en

If you are soldering averse there are OEM style plugs/sockets available which use crimped connections. Soldering is a good, basic skill to learn though (desoldering from a printed circuit board is harder - for me at least)
Weatherpack make good waterproof connectors too
https://tinyurl.com/y5h4322k


(had to shorten the url)

[garynortheast]

Welcome along. Can't offer any advice here I'm afraid, as I've never done this before. Look forward to seeing the job progressing though.

[Bibio]

first off you dont say what year your bike was made

my advice for what its worth. you would be better selling your bike and buying a naked. by the time you source all the parts it will become very expensive.

[henrythenoob]

Originally Posted by Bibio

first off you dont say what year your bike was made

my advice for what its worth. you would be better selling your bike and buying a naked. by the time you source all the parts it will become very expensive.

Yeah, my bad. It is a 1gen


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[henrythenoob]

Originally Posted by henrythenoob

yeah, my bad. It is a 1gen


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2000

[TamSV]

Originally Posted by Bibio

my advice for what it’s worth. you would be better selling your bike and buying a naked. by the time you source all the parts it will become very expensive.

Definitely the easiest way to do it.

However, if you’re motivated to do the work just because you want to do the work (and I can relate to that) then crack on.

Get a decent socket set.

Top yoke conversion won’t be difficult. Take your time, do your research, buy a torque wrench.

You might need longer cables for choke and throttle plus brake lines - depends how high and wide you want to go with the bars. I’d fit them then see how cables are looking. I’ve seen them rerouted through the frame but doesn’t look great IMO. Don’t pull the old choke cable out until you’ve got the new one - join them and you can use the old one to pull through the new. Download the workshop manual and buy more tools.

You’ve got loads of options for headlight. Mount it to the forks or there’s a handy lug on the front of the headstock you can use for a fixed set-up/old speed triple type arrangement.

Older Suzuki Bandit clocks will work and have the same speedo drive - if you’re not using that you’ll need to set up magnets and a hall sensor (loads of info for that here and elsewhere). You’ll still need to do a bit of wiring. I’d recommend using proper automotive connectors and pins. Buy a proper crimping tool.

You’ll have a lot of wiring loom to hide that lives inside the fairing. The naked loom is different and puts a lot of wires in the headlight bucket but that won’t work for the S loom. You can lose a bit of length when you’re rewiring the light and clocks but if you lift the tank you’ll see there’s room to reroute the front loom around the airbox and then out by the headstock. Get some loom tape and reusable cable ties. And more tools.


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[henrythenoob]

Originally Posted by TamSV

Definitely the easiest way to do it.

However, if you’re motivated to do the work just because you want to do the work (and I can relate to that) then crack on.

Get a decent socket set.

Top yoke conversion won’t be difficult. Take your time, do your research, buy a torque wrench.

You might need longer cables for choke and throttle plus brake lines - depends how high and wide you want to go with the bars. I’d fit them then see how cables are looking. I’ve seen them rerouted through the frame but doesn’t look great IMO. Don’t pull the old choke cable out until you’ve got the new one - join them and you can use the old one to pull through the new. Download the workshop manual and buy more tools.

You’ve got loads of options for headlight. Mount it to the forks or there’s a handy lug on the front of the headstock you can use for a fixed set-up/old speed triple type arrangement.

Older Suzuki Bandit clocks will work and have the same speedo drive - if you’re not using that you’ll need to set up magnets and a hall sensor (loads of info for that here and elsewhere). You’ll still need to do a bit of wiring. I’d recommend using proper automotive connectors and pins. Buy a proper crimping tool.

You’ll have a lot of wiring loom to hide that lives inside the fairing. The naked loom is different and puts a lot of wires in the headlight bucket but that won’t work for the S loom. You can lose a bit of length when you’re rewiring the light and clocks but if you lift the tank you’ll see there’s room to reroute the front loom around the airbox and then out by the headstock. Get some loom tape and reusable cable ties. And more tools.


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Thank you for all this info.

I won’t buy a sv650n for a few reasons, this is my first bike, I’m 30 years old right now and when I was 10, my dad used to have one exactly like this one, same model same colour…I got attached to it, that’s the reason why I chose to work on it even though it’ll cost me more to finish the project (no one would finish projects if money was the main objection…)

Is really good to know that I can use the bandit cluster for this, I bought the ABM kit from Louis.ie, it has included all the cables and brake line on the right length. I’ll use a handlebar that was suggested on the kit, so hopefully it’ll fit correctly.

I bought the torque wrench and a few new tools to work with the electrical part of the project together with connections and shrink wrap and a few other things.

Again, thank you for your comment and motivation! Will definitely post some pictures when I get all the parts and start working on it.

[TamSV]

You’ll need the bandit speedo drive too. It’s a mechanical one but fits on the SV spindle. This is late 90’s Bandit 600 I’m talking about. I don’t know about the newer ones.


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