Project: 500GP

[squirrel_hunter]

Well as again there appears to be a bit of a gap between updates, but as ever I've been doing things when I get a chance. And after reaching a bit of a milestone this evening I realise its well over due update.



So in between rebuilding the Bridgeport



The Colchester (again)



Some tooling parts



As well as making some more modification to my Grom



I have been hitting the machines as much as I can. Things that have been made include spacers (lots of), toe pegs, foot pegs, and linkage rods.



The pegs are all knurled, the toe for the gear and brake lever were fairly easy, I even found some end plugs for them from the metal suppiler. The main foot pegs were slightly more difficult, it turns out that I had to apply some maths. Thankfully I'm not the only one who makes things, there is a whole host of knowledge out there. In short to get the 20mm peg with the correct knurl I needed to start with a 21.65mm round.



I also used a boring bar for the first time to make the 14.1mm bore for the peg ends. And the linkages have a 6mm left hand thread at one end as well as 8mm spanner flats at 180o angles at each end. With all that done the next step will be to finalise some mounting holes and check that its all going to work, this worries me...

[squirrel_hunter]

The plan was to make 4 sets of rearsets, enough to have spares as well as mistakes and with the backing plates and levers completed I'd been working on pegs and spacers. With 4 sets of them made, it was the next phase to embiggen the 5mm placer holes on the plates and levers to take them to their working size along with a counterbore and chamfer.



All this takes time just to drill a hole. I have to set the machine up and clock a 5mm datum hole in on some sacrificial plate. Next is to clamp down the piece. Then drill to size, for example for the backing plates mounting points are 8mm. I then swap over the Jacobs chuck for then collet holder with a 13mm end mill for the counter bore depth of 2mm. In fairness as I'm not an engineer I don't know how far down I can go to recess the bolt head without sacrificing strength, but 2mm looks nice enough to lower the head height but shouldn't have any adverse effect. Then its back to the chuck for the chamfer tool. And before finally flipping the piece to do the chamfer on the back side. This all takes time and is just the process for a single hole.



But after drilling all the holes and taking the pivot point on the lever up to 16mm in preparation for the 20mm bushing I could put the first one together. I'm pleased. The past year has been worth it, but there is still more work to do I need to test fit and then do brake side.



Just hope I can do this before the lockdown and hopefully everything will fit...

[Bibio]

looking very tidy. you should be proud of yourself.

[squirrel_hunter]

Thanks I'm happy with how things are going at the moment.

So I tried the left rearset on the bike for the first time. And it looks good I think.



But as its a test fit its given me some things to think about. I knew the back of the plate would be close to the swing arm, but looking at it its going to be too close. I think the rear shock would have to be under heavy compression in order for it to interface with the arm but its a risk I'm not happy with.



The easiest solution would be to space the hanger out by 5mm and that should clear the arm good and proper. Using the sets I'm basing this on the top mount has no spacer, the lower has an 11mm so I've got another set of 5mm and 16mm spacers to make.



The next issue issue is harder to photograph, but basically the toe peg bolt and the linkage rod are going to meet. It comes down to the space that it has to run. In short the peg is spaced to 10mm and the rod is 10mm OD, but the bolt is not recessed completely. The head of the M6 button bolt is around 2.5mm and I counterbored it by 1mm as the lever is only 6.5mm in depth. I don't know if I can recess the whole of the head while maintaining the strength of the lever so suggestions welcome? I might be able to add a spacer to the spacer for the peg to see...



But time for some better news. I have a right rearset ready to test fit. Now things to say are that the lever return limit isn't mine. I didn't have enough time to do the limiter so used the original spaced out to fit. Though I have an idea how I'm going to fix this.



Also the return spring is a bit of a question. The M5 tap is just there while I dont have a bolt the right length, but I'm not happy on the snap. I have a simple set of springs that I've played with, but I dont think they are strong enough to really return the lever, so if anyone has any suggestions on how to measure springs, their strength, and where to get them from I'd be happy to listen?

[Adam Ef]

Wonderful stuff as always.


Just had a thought... do you know Sidecar Steve? ...
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5h-oZmlGK4/

[squirrel_hunter]

Not seen any of his stuff before, but that guys got a lot more talent then me, inspirational.

[squirrel_hunter]

I thought quarantine would give me more time, but oddly no. I'm working from home now so most of my day is filled generating beer tokens as normal and this past week I don't even know where the evenings have gone. But I have managed to grab some time to finish the test fitting.



The right hand rearset went on without a problem. It all looks good, I'm happy with the first fitment.



I need to test fit an exhaust, as well as change the rotation of the rear brake cam connecting arm, but at the moment I'm not concerned. I do think that the brake lever arm may give me some challenges though. I think it will need to be longer then I first calculated plus I will need to change the bends from the originals. I've bought a small pipe bender and hopefully this will be strong enough without the use of heat but time will tell.



As for the left I've been playing around with the spacers. Adding a 5mm spacer to the main body brings it out enough to comfortably clear the swingarm. I then added 5mm to the peg spacer to move the gear lever out to clear the connecting rod, and then 5mm to the linkage to bring it back in line. This should give about 3mm clearance on the lever toe peg, there will be some slack in the lever so hopefully this will be enough. I'll only really know once I have fitted the bush to the lever properly, and thats going to have to wait.



I also have decided that the connection rod could probably do with shortening as although it looks right its basically at its maximum adjustment. So I will make some -10mm and -20mm rods, might also make some +10mm to give me further options. This will all be once we get out of quarantine. I need to make some more spacers as well as the brake stopper so a metal order is on the list. I also have a rather large list of bolts that I need to also order as well as some more bushing material as I think I'm going to need more than what I've got to make the full 4 sets.

Once I've proved this set I'll be looking to finish all of them, going through the hole drilling process and then some light sanding and finishing before anodising. And I still need to sort those springs. Trouble is with all thats going on in the world I don't know when thats going to be so I might need to find something else to do with this bike...

[squirrel_hunter]

So with work on the rearsets paused, my thoughts turn to induction.



Starting with the reed block I've opted for a set of dual stage Boyesen power reeds with TCR reed stoppers. The Boyesen's come with their own rev plate but on the advice of TCR I'm not using them and just going with the stoppers. Remember to loctite the retaining screws.



Next as I've upped the CC I think I need to feed that engine a little more. And I shall do that with a 24mm Flatside Carb Kit from Kitaco.



Thats a lovely CNC'ed manifold in the kit, just a shame you're not really going to see it once all buttoned up. I've also installed the boost bottle though those mounting bolts are to be replaced with something less rusty.



The carb is on next, but I know will be coming back off at some point for set up. Not least for the throttle cable, but thats another story.



And finally a K&N cone filter. Now I know its at a very, well, erect angle but thats the only orientation that will allow it to fit and clear the frame. So I've checked and the tank does fit. It turns out that the OEM airbox takes up a lot of space under there thats not being used now.

[andrewsmith]

You been on the viagra sh? Or are you pleased to see it

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

[squirrel_hunter]

And now for the ignition system.



When I was dismantling the bike I noticed that the plastic casing of the coil was cracked. So I ordered a pattern replacement and a Nology Hot Wire. Installation was simple I just unscrewed the lead from the replacement coil, shortened the Hot Wire cable, screwed it in and then applied a little heat shrink.



I'm not sure I'll keep the earth cable where I have it now but I think it works. The coil orientation is different to the original and the LT cable is missing so will need to create a new one. I should have the connectors, but no wire, I'm sure once the workshop is back in operation there will be some down there so that can wait.



Now I know what you're thinking, why install something like that? It looks like its about as effective as a HRC sticker and even the marketing only claims a 0.3hp but the main reason I added it was that it looked cool in red.