99 sv650n worm drive failure?

[Geodude]

D'oh and Cheers for info

[Geodude]

Another stupid question, should there be movement in the cable outer when all adjustment is done? If i can explain it correctly i can pull the outer a good 5mm or so away from the bit that adjusts the slack? ( clutch cable adjuster bolt) Also slack goes tighter on full left lock and looser on full right lock? Correctly routed new oem cable too. Why am i struggling with this grr come on G give you head a shake

[Geodude]

Hmm also found this reply to a thread on some other bike forum but it says to do the wormdrive screw adjustment last not first?


Quote: You adjust the screw last and take the cable slack out first

The arm that is connected to the cable should be at around a 90 degree angle to the fixing bolts

Remove the slack with the adjuster at the bottom of the cable the one closest to the clutch the top one is for fine adjustments

Once all that is set you screw the centre screw so it just touches the push rod then back it off a quarter to half a turn

Full thread here Click me


Wrong or right???

[johnnyrod]

Nope, slacken the cable right off then adjust the screw, then adjust the cable to get the biting point right. My clutch has always been unpredictable in terms of where the biting point is, despite changing the cable and am on my 3rd worm (2nd replacement) as they last about 20k miles for me.

[Geodude]

Hey johnny, yep that's what I thought. The internet is useful and pointless at times

Does anyone else find they are able to pull the outer cable out out of the clutch cable adjuster bolt by 5mm or so when its adjusted up?


ps im not normally this stupid im just having one of those weeks/months/years

[Bibio]

technically there should be no difference in tightening of the cable from lock to lock on the bars. if there is there is something snagging the cable.

when i fit new clutch cables i cable tie the old cable bottom end to the new cable top end with cable ties then pull and feed the new cable through. there are a few brackets (holders) that the cable has to run through if the cable is not pulled through these brackets then the cable can "tighten" as you go lock to lock.

when fitting a new cable once routed properly you:
adjust the top lever adjuster to the half way point.
tighten the bottom cable adjuster at the casing so it takes most of or all the slack from the cable.
wind the adjuster lifter mech adjuster screw out/in till its just touching the rear push rod.
lock the nut off making sure that you dont turn the screw.
adjust the bar end lever adjuster in/out for your preferred bite. there should be a few mm slack on the lever when done.

yes there is play in the lifter mech when pulling the clutch lever in/out.

properly looked after lifter mechs should last 40k easily, its when they are run dry they wear. the best lube is CV grease but if you dont have that then chain lube spray works as long as its done every oil change, you just need to squirt it between the two parts of the worm drive.

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by Geodude

Does anyone else find they are able to pull the outer cable out out of the clutch cable adjuster bolt by 5mm or so when its adjusted up?


ps im not normally this stupid im just having one of those weeks/months/years

yes this in normal.

i'm saying nowt...

[Bibio]

just had a thought.. do you have rental bars fitted?

[Geodude]

Hey Bibs yeah I used old one to feed new one through just incase I got it wrong Ahh hang on im doing the mech lifter adjustment with the cable fully slack at both ends then adjusting the bottom and top, is that wrong?

[Geodude]

Originally Posted by Bibio

yes this in normal.

i'm saying nowt...

So its normal and im flapping for nowt then lol


Hey cheeky