20-02-06, 05:51 PM | #1 |
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Autocom Install - K3 SV650s
DBK
put my bike into a SUZUKI Garage to get the autom installed for issues with warrenty yadiada, only they have installed thw wrong way! For those with sv650s and an autocom am i correct in assuming that the positive goes onto the battery, and the negative gets connected to the rear brake or other source that is not live until the key is turned in the ignition... Suzuki in irvine have just connected both the positive and negative to the battery..good one....thats what prob killed my battery over the winter months, even with an optimate running on it! - just had the seat off the bike for the 1st time there to find out how they wired it up... Question is...how easy is it to connect to your rear brake youself? Anyone done it themselves or could recommend a person/garage/dealer that actualy know 100% how to attatch an autocom system... |
20-02-06, 05:57 PM | #2 |
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Very easy to connect yourself - hee is how I did mine for my SV1000:-
Remove pillion & rider seat. 2) Run -ve lead to battery - ready for connection (fit a crimped/soldered eye first) 3) Run +ve lead around the rear of the pillion seat frame to connect to rear light cable (grey wire on left under pillion seat) 4) Ensure battery is disconnected then split grey wire & splice/solder +ve to grey wire 5) Reconnect battery and ensure that rear light still comes on with ignition - if not, you are fiicked. 6) Route the rider headset cable under the riders seat and bring it out somewhere convenient next to the tank - mine comes out right at the front of the rider's seat. 7) Connect headset and speak into mike to ensure all is working ok Tidy up cables with tie wraps NB - it is the NEGATIVE that should be connected to the battery
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20-02-06, 05:57 PM | #3 |
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I had the starcom system, it could be permantly connected to the battery as it would only turn on when the riders headset was connected. Autocom should do that.
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20-02-06, 06:20 PM | #4 |
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Good old irvine suzuki being daft and doing the wrong job i coulda done myself...
And Daft old autocom for designing a great system with a number one flaw! that at least clears up the battery issue...and gives me some knowledge into what goes where....not that confident about splitting wires or soldering though... who thinks i can get the £30 back from suzuki irvine for their mistake? |
20-02-06, 06:23 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
Just take your time when doing it - and dont solder/connect anything until you are happy that you have routed the cable exactly where you want it to go.
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21-02-06, 12:05 AM | #6 |
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From the company website, the Autocom switches itself off when there is no headset connected. Therefore direct wiring to the battery terminals would cause no problems. The current drain is such that a 9v battery is chosen by the manufacturer as a standard power source on most models. Given that a bike battery is many times greater in both size and electrical capacity, it should last a ridiculous length of time without the engine running before causing problems.
Even if you're paranoid, why connect to the rear light when the fusebox is much easier and has a spare ignition switched terminal (or two)? Garry |
21-02-06, 08:49 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
was also talking to my uncle....he said that a battery going dead is next to impossible if you have an optimate running...do not know if the job suzuki did was the cause....or if there is a completely diff issue going on there..... the battery was charging for the last 2 weeks with out getting a complete charge.....one of the guys was talking about a regulator.....is the regulator in the battery itselfor is that part of the optimate system? soon find out if tis battery.....as my new one should be here in the next hour or so.... |
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21-02-06, 06:59 PM | #8 |
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Hi again mate.
The alternator (known by some as the generator) generates electricity whilst the engine is running. This runs all the lights and accessories etc and the battery is really just for starting. The other important job that the alternator does is to replace the charge taken out of the battery during starting. That's it. Since the engine runs at different revs and the load placed on the alternator (lights, horn, radios etc) varies, the regulator (IN or ON the alternator) keeps it down to an upper limit. I THINK this is around 14.5v or perhaps a little more. Checking through the previous posts on regulators will reveal all (probably explained by Sid Squid). If the regulator goes, you end up getting too high a charge accross the battery terminals and the contents heat up and "gas off". This ruins the battery beyond recovery more often than not. In bad cases, the plates inside the battery can warp and occassionally short each other out. Hope this helps. Garry |
21-02-06, 10:40 PM | #9 |
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just got in the new battery today....
wirred it up.....disconnected the autocom unit.. same thing......no sign of life what so ever when turning on the ignition... checked all the fuses and all the connections....nothing has blown or looks bad... even tried doing a jump start from a car batery on both batteries.....nothing!! all the aoive i tried with one of my "know it all biker" mates who have had all problems with various of bikes in their long history.....he is even at a loss know what is wrong with it! id i could say the f word on this forum i would, 1000 times over! I am a carefull rider that looks after and respects the bike.....its kept in good garage and well looked after and maintained!...like mos of the bike mags say when you buy an sv650s....if you don't look after it, the thing wll breal etc... well...if i am looking after it, god help those who keep theres on the street chained to a lamp post! just about lost all my faith in suzuki motor cycles, the dealers and everything esle that goes with it! |
21-02-06, 11:17 PM | #10 |
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Well then. Clearly not the battery, or the charging system, as you've bypassed that with the jump.
When you say no signs of life, is it literally none at all? Lights come on? Any sound from the starter? If there's nothing at all, even indicators, horn, brake lights (try everything) then it could be fuses- not something I know anything about at all to be honest- or it could be a big old hole in your wiring loom. Yours is an injected model isn't it? Can you hear the fuel injection prime?
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