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Old 05-03-19, 02:49 PM   #1
aesmith
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Default Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

Hi,

This post provoked by how discoloured fork oil gets over a year or so, which to me indicates metal to metal contact happening.

I'm referring the clonks that both my pointies have made from the fork when going over bumps. From what I read this is inherent, and they all do this. That's sort of backed up by my experience with in fact three sets of forks on the two bikes.

What I was wondering is whether anyone knows exactly what's clonking - I mean what two parts are striking each other? I was wondering if it's actually the sides of the spring striking the insides of the tubes. And moving on from that is there anything that can be done to stop it?

Thanks, Tony S
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Old 05-03-19, 03:33 PM   #2
garynortheast
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Default Re: Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

I don't have an answer as to the cause of the clonk, but after I fitted Debrix emulators some years ago the clonk disappeared.

Last edited by garynortheast; 05-03-19 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 05-03-19, 11:32 PM   #3
glang
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Default Re: Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

Mine improved a lot after a fork oil change to a thicker viscosity
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Old 06-03-19, 11:29 AM   #4
Bibio
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Default Re: Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

its the top out spring shaking about. only remove it if you have fitted the correct springs for your weight otherwise the stanchion and tube will stick together at full compression, you dont want that now do you.
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Old 06-03-19, 03:53 PM   #5
aesmith
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Default Re: Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

Quote:
Originally Posted by garynortheast View Post
I don't have an answer as to the cause of the clonk, but after I fitted Debrix emulators some years ago the clonk disappeared.
That's interesting. I have YSS emulators. I wonder if my clonks are because my high speed valve is set too hard, or too soft, compared to yours.
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Old 06-03-19, 04:00 PM   #6
aesmith
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Default Re: Pointy Forks - clonks and metal-to-metal contact

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Originally Posted by Bibio View Post
its the top out spring shaking about. only remove it if you have fitted the correct springs for your weight otherwise the stanchion and tube will stick together at full compression, you dont want that now do you.
Also interesting. If I understand correctly the top out spring sits at the bottom of the stanchion, and is compressed by the damper rod at full extension. So I'm thinking it could be padded in some way so it's a tight fit in the tube and therefore won't rattle, but can still be perform it's function. I'll have a look at that if I have the forks off for any reason.

By the way given that that part of the fork should be full of oil, which you would think would damp out a loose part rattling, does this mean it actually cavitates?
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