SV650 Curvy Clutch and oil leak

[tom_e]

I'd clean it up, talc it and take it out round the block for a couple of miles. If it's still dry then I wouldn't expect you to have anymore issues, if it's leaking then a quick run isn't going to cause any damage.

If you don't want to or can't take it out for a ride then I'd leave it on the stand let it run up to temp to make sure the oil has thinned out then work up and down the gears a few times.

[russell664]

I can't take it for a run as the clutch will not disengage - but that is down to the clutch adjust losing bearings which is on order now.

I would of thought a 5 - 10 min run would suffice? Maybe some change it RPMs aswell.

[TamSV]

Aye get it cleaned up and then run the motor for a while. If it's still leaking then something's up.

Make sure the crankcase breather tubes are still connected to the airbox. Thats a regular cause of what looks like an oil leak on that side of the bike. You might have disturbed them during your service work.

So far as the clutch goes, if it worked before it should work now. A few missing ball bearings won't matter. Is it all back together properly? A common mistake is to put the bracket that holds the arm return spring underneath the worm drive instead of on top (if that makes any sense)

Put up a pic of the worm drive and it'll be obvious if something's amiss.

[russell664]

In terms of the clutch, if the bike is on a paddock stand, and you slot it into first, let the clutch out get drive and when you pull it back in there shouldn't be drive anymore right?

I did remove the airbox, so will check the breather pipes - didn't think of that!

The clutch worm drive - the black bracket is definitely on top of the unit, i'll try to grab a picture later.

What my clutch was doing was going into gear fine, then when releasing the clutch pulled fine, but when you pull the clutch in again on the paddock stand the wheel carries on as if the clutch isn't pulled in? If that makes an sense?

I just really, really hope there isn't an actual leak, and the oil was a result of me removing the pushrod.

[Blapper]

What you are describing is a situation where I would EXPECT the real wheel to carry on spinning. There is enough stiction in most wet clutches for the already spinning real wheel to not offer enough resistance to break that stiction.

Change the release assembly, adjust it correctly then take the bike off the stand, put it in gear with the clutch lever in and rock it back and forth hard. If you cannot break the stiction that way you have a problem.

[tom_e]

Like blapper says that's totally normal with no resistance on the wheel

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[Biker Biggles]

If you apply the rear brake with the clutch pulled in you will see easily if it is working ok.
As for the leak,it appears you removed the cluch pushrod and that is where the oil is coming out?Something must have gone wrong there if that is the case.

[russell664]

Ah, okay so clutch now works fine could still do with some adjustments though.

Took her out with some talc, still currently out though. In the meantime I recorded the engine, does this sound right you you guys?

https://youtu.be/CinE44Pyglc

[TamSV]

Sounds as pish as the rest of them. Get a new zorst

[russell664]

I have a scorpion one, but noticed that it was leaking... At the seams. :O

So, it sounds ok to you, no adverse things going on? I'm a massive worrier sorry.
My phone decided to die, but I got this picture... There isn't any oil coming from the pushrod seal, but there is a bit of dark stuff under the sprocket cover which I think liquidised and out dark stuff in the talc. The road was wet so is a mix of that I think.



I have put a trash layer of talc on it tonight, and on some bubble wrap heath tonight, I'll check in the morning and start it up for half an hour to confirm, that would be enough time for a leak to show right?