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08-06-13, 09:00 AM | #1 |
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SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
I had been on a 300 odd mile run yesterday and the home stretch was a killer with multiple stops due to numb bumb syndrome. I didnt really notice before how much the raised rear subframe of the sk3 wants to make your crotch weld to the tank. I could push myself back into the seat but within no time at all I was back welded in. I thought about wearing gell cycling shorts under the kit. This thread was started after reading jayneflakes threads. Ideas & tips?
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ), drop it & fix it again! K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
08-06-13, 09:19 AM | #2 |
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Re: sv seat comfort upgrades diy
Could reshape the seat I guess, add some foam to the front or remove some from further back, give it an upward slope at front to stop you sliding into tank. Not sure how easy it would be to do, or how neat it would be but I know the short in the leg often shave seats down.
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08-06-13, 11:40 AM | #3 |
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Re: sv seat comfort upgrades diy
I have gel shorts for cycling to work as my ass was sore from the seat in the gooch area. Don't think they would help you much on the bike. What about getting some off the grippy mesh you put on a pillion seat and add a strip across your seat
You could still move about but then when needed plonk your butt on it to stop you sliding forward |
09-06-13, 12:06 PM | #4 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
I've done quite a few seats over the years. It's pretty simple if you're at all handy, so here are a few tips.
Most covers are simply stapled onto a plastic base. Prise them out using a suitable small flat screwdriver and pliers (mind fingers!). Get a good quality (Arrow or sim, don't cut cost here) staple gun for replacement. When re-stapling hold the plastic base firmly against a solid workbench or sim otherwise it'll bounce and the staples only go halfway in. Something like 5/16" = 8mm staple legs are suitable. Don't need stainless staples, simply paint/varnish over the plated versions when finished. When reshaping, place the seat on a flat surface and mark off the foam each side using a ruler/felt pen to keep it symmetrical. Useful to mark a centreline along the length too. Cut foam using a breadknife or 12" hacksaw to near the right shape, then smooth it off using a small angle grinder (yes, that's right, by far the best method I've found) but do it outside because it makes huge amounts of foam dust. Usual safety wear. You can usefully wrap the foam in clingfilm before refitting the cover. To add size, cut a slot in the foam about 1/2" from the surface and then insert a wedge of foam shaped and tapered to suit. A few spots of silicone sealant will stick it in place, be aware that big blobs of silicone can be felt as lumps so be sparing. Gel inserts can be useful but overall shape is more important. I have used gel "numnahs" (pads for using under horse saddles) in the past but they can be heavy! I have a piece of one in my touring bike saddle, but that went in after getting the shape right. Again, the shape is more important than foam thickness IME. Closed cell foam sleeping mats can be useful too, they are good at shock absorbing, especially the double layer grey ones I've found, usually less than £5 for a full size mat so plenty of spare. The smelly blue ones are inferior. Make sure to keep any drain/breather holes in the base free (put holes in closed cell mats if appropriate, they are watertight). When recovering, I suggest staple the cover at the centreline at front and back first, then do midway along each side to form a cross. Work symmetrically and gradually, don't over stretch the cover, just taut is fine. Warm with a hairdryer if it needs to fit new curves. Use duct tape to hold it temporarily if you're not sure. Give it a try. HTH
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09-06-13, 12:12 PM | #5 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
I had the seat on my K3 re-sculpted and that has made it much more comfortable. I also had it recovered in a nice new fabric and it looks lovely. On long trips I do wear cycling shorts for added comfort because I know that I will suffer if I don't.
Another tip I use is to make regular stops even if I don't feel tired because by the time I am tired the damage is done. |
09-06-13, 12:37 PM | #6 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
Apart from getting it sculptured, get a gel insert put in.
I've suggested it to loads of other peeps before
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09-06-13, 11:51 PM | #7 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
I know the k3 seat / subframe is unique to that year, from k4 onwards did they make the subframe less angled or something?
Fwiw I got an official gel seat the other day, and I managed 2 hours in the seat ( incidentally only 80 miles) sat in the same position on the motorway, but the pain in the last 20 minutes became killer and i had to pull over in the end for 2 minutes and have a stretch and bum squeezing/prodding/hitting session to bring it back from the brink and then I was fine for the next half hour till home. I haven't found the gel seat to feel super comfy, but I also don't recall being able to spend that much time in the saddle in one go on the standard seat. |
18-06-13, 07:12 PM | #8 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
Just got another k3 seat so diy upgrade here we come
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ), drop it & fix it again! K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
18-06-13, 07:34 PM | #9 |
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Re: SV seat comfort upgrades DIY?
here ya go: http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/modify_2.htm
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