TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

Interesting !! How about you post some picks of your bike we all want to see

about the wires :they're the White/red and Black/white ones

I've found the problem's : I need an original SV650 contact because off the build-in anti-theft , and there is a problem with the tip-over sensor.

here you can follow my project : http://www.kr-1s.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67

not too much written info, 'cause the original KR1-forum went off line, and it was too much work to translate everything back to englisch (I'm from Belgium ).

Fantastic post, and excellent, well laid-out description! I just completed the TPS adjustment, and aside from the "dealer module" being near impossible to access (I almost had to detatch the rear fairing), it took about the time that you stated.

Thank you!

I stuck a toggle switch in my "dealer mode plug" because i've noticed that this needs adjusting regularly. I did mine in the summer and its out again so i'm going to start doing it every month or so.

Also i replaced the cheese bolts onthe TPS with stainless allen head bolts too.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by lukemillar

I'm still wondering if anyone knows the answer to this! (where the rpm figure came from...)

I've checked the dealer workshop manual for this and it does not state an rpm figure for when the line should begin to move up.

It explains that the engine idle speed should be set to 1300rpm (+-100rpm) with the engine warm. The tps should then only be adjusted if the line is not already in the middle position.

Having said that, I'm not sure this post has covered this particular point but provided that the line settles on the middle position at idle then there is still an amount of adjustment possible to the tps. Within this range I would expect that at one extreme it causes poor low speed throttle response. At the other extreme it seems smoother as some people have found.

Section 4-16 of the service manual for those that have one.

One other tip I would add to this procedure before you start is to either make a small scribe mark that crosses the tps and the mount it is fastened too, or paint a small stripe across with liquid paper so that you can reset back to the starting point in case you panic and get lost.

Good idea on replacing the cheese bolts with stainless cap screws, thats a typical mod to almost every fastener on race bikes, particularly carbs and the like to extend their life and ease of removal.

Good post though.

[Red Herring]

Just did the adjustment to my K5 today. Didn't have the right tool for the bolts (who has) so I just took the whole throttle bodies off and undid the bolts with a mole wrench (I know, brutal but effective), then replaced the bolts with allen head items, replaced the throttles and carried out the adjustment. Mine was changing about 3,500 RPM and it took a bit of perseverance to get it right at about 1,500, but got there in the end.

Given that the majority of us are finding the original setting is about 3,000 RPM it does make you question if this in fact should be the correct setting, and setting it lower is in fact a "mod". I wonder if it's to do with emissions? Do they measure them just above idle when going for type approval etc which might prompt Suzuki to deliberately delay the extra fuel coming in?

[Sid Squid]

No, it's not a mod.

The setting is pretty much bang on from the factory, I've tested a couple of near new bikes to verify this, the only correct setting is the factory one. My checking of this suggests the variation occurs early in the life of the bike due to initial wear in the plastic ball joints of the throttle linkage - the throttle stop is on one end, the TPS on the other, wear in the joints varies the setting of the TPS. Once an initial higher rate of wear settles down, the setting stabilises.

Also bear in mind the FI system doesn't do something magical at any given throttle setting, the throttle position is indexed as a voltage, a given voltage is interpreted by the FI as a shut throttle - the TPS is a potentiometer - simply put the bar display in dealer mode is a voltmeter, the correct setting for a shut throttle is a given voltage, displayed as the centre bar of the display*. Setting as the manual suggests simply allows the FI system to choose the correct settings, (injector duration, ignition timing, emissions equipment) for a given throttle position.

*This is essentially the same as with the curvy, (and many other bikes too), the TPS setting on those bikes requires you to connect a meter, (in this case a resistance meter as the setting isn't done 'live'), directly to the TPS to ascertain the setting, the only difference is the FI bikes has the test meter 'on board' and the setting is displayed as a moving bar, rather than numerically.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

The setting is pretty much bang on from the factory, I've tested a couple of near new bikes to verify this, the only correct setting is the factory one.

Sid, Are you saying that this procedure is the correct thing to do? I'm not sure if you mean that the 3000rpm (approx) value that peeps are finding is correct, or if this variance is the result of the initial wear.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by flymo

Sid, Are you saying that this procedure is the correct thing to do? I'm not sure if you mean that the 3000rpm (approx) value that peeps are finding is correct, or if this variance is the result of the initial wear.

Yes, this is exactly the same procedure that is in the manual, (Suzuki's own and Haynes et al), it's nothing magical and is a part of normal servicing.
Set as described in Tim's above article, the line should be in the centre at idle, and move to the upper position as the engine speed rises from idle. This allows the FI system to know where the throttle is, (it's a Throttle Position Sensor!), specifically here the shut throttle as that's the index position, nothing special, no 'putting more fuel in' at whatever revs, there are many misconceptions about what the TPS does, but it's really very simple.

Things to bear in mind:

1) If you balance the throttle bodies or adjust the idle speed, the setting will alter. As I mentioned above the throttle stop and balance assembly are on one end of the linkage, the TPS on the other.
2) Other service procedures have an effect on throttle balance, so;
3) TPS setting should be done last, after clearances, plugs, filter clean, throttle balance and idle setting, if the TPS or balance or idle are a long way off, resetting might be necessary after one or another is done, but the last thing should always be the TPS as it's setting is directly affected by throttle balance and idle speed.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Yes, this is exactly the same procedure that is in the manual, (Suzuki's own and Haynes et al), it's nothing magical and is a part of normal servicing.
Set as described in Tim's above article, the line should be in the centre at idle, and move to the upper position as the engine speed rises from idle. This allows the FI system to know where the throttle is, (it's a Throttle Position Sensor!), specifically here the shut throttle as that's the index position, nothing special, no 'putting more fuel in' at whatever revs, there are many misconceptions about what the TPS does, but it's really very simple.

Things to bear in mind:

1) If you balance the throttle bodies or adjust the idle speed, the setting will alter. As I mentioned above the throttle stop and balance assembly are on one end of the linkage, the TPS on the other.
2) Other service procedures have an effect on throttle balance, so;
3) TPS setting should be done last, after clearances, plugs, filter clean, throttle balance and idle setting, if the TPS or balance or idle are a long way off, resetting might be necessary after one or another is done, but the last thing should always be the TPS as it's setting is directly affected by throttle balance and idle speed.

Ok, I'm fine with all that. The bit that was unclear from your earlier post was wether or not the line should begin to move upwards from the center at around 3000rpm or a lower speed than that.

Are we implying that they leave the factory with an intentional setting of around 3000rpm or that it has drifted since factory setting due to settling or wear of the linkages.

This part isnt described in the manuals.