Pointy complete electrical failure - green connector problem?

SV650S, 2005 K5, 10500miles.

Turned the key a couple of weeks ago and nothing - no dash, lights or ignition. Thought: odd! Re-cycled the key and all was fine. Thought: must be the worn key - no problem.

Last Sunday I do a 100 mile run including 2 stops/switch-offs to admire scenery etc., then get home, park on my drive to have a cup of tea and sit down on the bench to stare at it in awe - I cannot tell you how much I’m enjoying this after a 30 year absence from bikes!

"Ooh", I thought"how many miles did I do exactly ?". So I turn the key and, you've guessed it, nothing - totally dead.

I'm still smiling at this point because I've just had such a great ride and it'll be OK in a minute – won’t it?.

I know the battery is a bit tired but it's just had a 2 hour ride and started fine before and during the ride; "can't be that surely". I have a new battery on my bench ready to go in but I thought I'd wait until this one totally expires. Anyway after shaking the bike, poking it and twiddling the key (and spare) to no effect, I gradually stop smiling and take comfort it didn't happen while I was 50 miles away from home.

Monday morning it's still dead (I know - of course it is, but I'm still a big kid despite my age and hope the fairies will fix it in the night) and I have a thoroughly miserable day at the office – as does anyone else sitting near me. Leave work as early as I dare and check the main 30 amp fuse on the starter solenoid (I'm learning slowly thanks to this forum). It looks fine, but I swap it with the spare in case - nothing. Check all the other fuses under the pillion seat, but I know in my heart it's not those.

I check the battery connections and then dust-off my pristine multimeter and remove it from its box (bought from Tandy - that tells you how much I use it) and gingerly connect the probes across the battery terminals: I’m still alive and it says 12.9 volts. I nod confidently (as my wife is looking out of the dining room window with that face she gets when I mention anything to do with motorcycling - she was sooo pleased when I told her I'd bought a bike. Oh, how we laughed that July weekend). I'm not sure what that voltage implies but I resolve to fit the new battery anyway, when I’ve summed up the courage to pour the acid into it.

I've always wanted to use that tank support thingy under the seat so while I’m at it I lift the tank and have a look behind the headstock. A brief search on this forum at lunchtime mentioned a green connector and after removing the top of the airbox, I can see it (I note that my wife misses this breakthrough). I turn the key on and with a wooden stick (I have all the right tools), I poke it and tap the wires I can see emerging from it but nothing happens. Abandoning the stick I try to squeeze my fat fingers down there and push the 'other' bits of the loom I can see out of the way when suddenly I jump out of my skin - that fuel pump's quite loud when your head is inches from it (my wife saw that). She is alive again. Note that it’s a she when she runs and an it when not – petulance eh.

Now, I'm pleased and sad. She runs again but it could cut out again at any time; I imagine being flat out in 5th on a sweeping right-hander with the peg just caressing the tarmac, then I put the Bike magazine down and realize it could happen to me whileI'm wobbling through a roundabout in Cheltenham trying to find my way out. Seriously, how do you read a map on amotorbike - I can only commit so much to memory!

So, I was definitely not touching the green plug when it came back to life so do I have to dismiss this,or does the complete power failure still point to this?

I'm thinking of hour upon hour of labour charge at my dealer while they try to find the fault - aaargh. Momentarily I think this could be an excuse to part-exchange for a new Street Triple then I remember my wife, and that weekend in July, and the thought quickly goes away.

I suppose the green plug has to be checked out anyway but I would not be confident of a good repair if it is shot. Can I access it from underneath by just moving the radiator? Taking the airbox off worries me. Well, it’s the getting it back on again bit actually.

I should add that I paid my local dealer to remove the Alarm and heated grips that were fitted when I bought it. A call to them along the lines of"do you think it might be possible you disturbed something when you took the alarm of?" resulted in a very curt "Oh no, nothing to do with us". Surprise.

I have at least saved £25 on a pick-up to take a dealer. I can’t find any reference to a motorcycle electrician anywhere near Bristol - any recommendations?

Any help will be much appreciated.

This is my first post so apologies in advance for any errors I've made!

[Sid Squid]

It could be that, and as it's a known troublesome spot I'd certainly look there first. Note the connector may look fine externally, it's only once you separate the two parts and have a squint inside that the failure may be clear. Rather than list out the other possible problem areas it's perhaps best if that's checked before looking for suggestions.

Taking the airbox off is no cause for concern, as you could write your post I'm sure you'll be able to. True it is a bit fiddly, and the front airbox to throttle clamp is a bit awkward to get to, (long cross head screwdriver, torch to find screw head), but as long as you are methodical and note what went where, (there aren't many bits), it should be no problem. If necessary I can scribble a how-to.

Battery voltage: 12.9 is loads - was the bike run, or the battery charged immediately prior to checking? If yes, then it will not give a true picture of battery condition, as there will still be a bit of a high from the charging received.
Key: If the key turns the switch is operated, another key - whether less or more worn - won't make anything electrical happen differently. This of course assumes the switch is working properly - but if it isn't it still won't be the key that matters.

Many thanks Sid Squid. I will get a long screwdriver and get that airbox off and check the plug. If you find time for a brief how-to all the better.

[yorkie_chris]

Getting that connector out is a right pain in the tits. Quite likely it's that though, or maybe a faulty ignition switch. Have fun

[Shawthing]

You're right that the 'Green connector' is frequently the cause of the fault whose symptoms you describe. I believe there have been cases of failure mid ride.
As Sir Sid states, and from my experience, the best way to get to this item is to remove top of airbox and filter, loosen both clamps holding the airbox bottom to the throttle bodies, lift bottom of airbox and push backwards, checking tension on various tubes and connectors attached and temporarily disconnecting if necessary.

You should get a good few inches of extra access to the connector then, which should be enough.

The connector should then slide up off it's mounting plate.

If you have had the bike running, a HOT connector indicates the fault is in the connector as a resistive connection will disipate energy.

Getting the connector apart will either show corroded internal contacts ( and likely melted plastic connector intenals) or allow you to electrically test out the electrical continuity of the ignition switch ( ideally get your hands on a multimeter to test this).

If it is the green connector contacts, you will need to decide how to tackle/rectify the problem. Could be just a contact cleanup and reasemmbly is all that's needed, or fit a bypass wire around the connector, or you may need a replacement sealed connector fitting.
I ended up just cutting out the green connector and soldering and heatshrinking the ignition barrel wires directly to the loom.

Good luck to ya.

Thanks Shawthing. That's a great help.
I was also going to ask whether this really can happen mid-ride as that is obviously the big worry. Otherwise I would just clean up the connector, re-fit, install a new battery (which I already bought) and ride on, knowing I can wiggle the wires to get me back home. Else, if I can't find anything I'll have to take it to the dealer ££££$.

Good to know I have pull the connector up. It has a 'catch' to depress before it will separate as well I hear.

Can the headlights be easily disconnected to ease battery drain during testing? The connectors feel like they just pull off.

I'll be asking for more help to test out the electrical continuity of the ignition switch though! Arrrgh.

[Sid Squid]

Mid ride? Possibly, yes. No guarantees as to when it will happen if the connector is damaged.
Strongly suggest you at least make an examination before making use of the bike, it is unlikely that an engine failure will cause you anything other than annoyance - but you never know. If it were mine, and there was an already known possibility of failure, I'd not want to ride it until I at least knew what was wrong and had thus made a judgement accordingly.

If the connector is damaged, cut out the affected wire and use a separate connector to join them outside the original block.

Headlight disconnection: You'll have the seat off to get the tank raised - remove the relevant fuse.

Yes, thought so. I'm not riding it.

Fuse! Why didn't I think of that... (don't answer that)

Thanks Sid Squid.

PS I worry about that poor SV alone in the forest.

[Bibio]

been in about a few green connectors and the best way i have found to get at it is to attack from above radiator. there is a small plastic cowl with two plastic push screws above the radiator at the headstock. remove that panel and then you have access to the 3 connectors attached to the bar.

or as others have said go in from the top but i would remove the air box instead of guddling about trying to get at the connector. either way expect lacerated hands.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by Glandwr

I worry about that poor SV alone in the forest.

Worry not. It has a CBR regulator and is thus immortal.