Safe Riding Tips: Overtaking & Dealing with Traffic

Overtaking & Dealing with Traffic
Despite Jeremy Clarkson’s view, motorcycles are faster than cars when it comes to single lane road use. Your average 600cc bike has the same power to weight ratio as super car and only about ¼ of the road profile. This basically means that there are a lot more overtaking opportunities available to the motorcycle rider than the car driver. Experienced riders overtake frequently as part of their normal ride, while the average car driver will be lucky to get a single opportunity all day.
It's worth mentioning, however, that you don't need to focus on making progress to enjoy motorcycling. A lot of advanced riding guides have their roots in the Police Class 1 training system, which aims to enable a rider to arrive at their destination as quickly and safely possible. You need to consider this when studying advanced techniques. Your need to make progress should be far less than that of a Police class 1 rider, unless that is you are being chased by one - in which case, I’d pull over.

Performing the Overtake
Your overtake should be a smooth, integrated part of your riding style. You should be able to pass the target vehicle without forcing them or anyone else to brake or swerve. If it helps, you can break the task down into the following basic steps which are discussed bellow.
1. Identifying the overtake
2. Move into the overtaking/following position
3. Observe, signal and move out.
4. Decide and pass
5. Observe, adjust speed and return

90% of an overtake is done before you start passing the target vehicle

You have probably noticed that sometimes by the time you've decided that it's safe and started to overtake, the situation has change and you are forced to brake and pull back in. This is basically because it takes a few seconds from the time you decide to go for it to the time you are in a position to pass. For this reason there are several important decision points. The last one (point 4) gives you a last chance to assess the situation, before being fully committed. If the situation has changed then you can simply move back to the following position.

Before going into the specifics of overtaking it's worth taking a look at some popular approaches and their risks.
Charge! - As soon as you see the vehicle, check its clear and go. By not moving up to a close following distance first, you'll have excessive exposure to the off side and a need to build some serious speed just to level with the target let alone overtake it.
Swoop & weave - From the following position, whack open the throttle, bank over to right, followed by a bank to the left when clear. Although it looks pretty cool, it actually places the bike in a position of least stability and commits the rider to a set path.
Tailgater - Unable to find a suitable gap, the tailgater clings to the rear of the target vehicle hoping that a gap will come along. Apart from being inside the safe stopping distance and hassling the driver of the target vehicle, the tailgater will find it difficult to spot opportunities so close.

Identifying the Overtake
When planning your overtaking maneuver you will need to judge if there is sufficient space and time to complete it. You can use the 3 times rule as a guide to estimate the amount of space you require. When you first see an overtaking opportunity, identify your return point and ensure you have no less than 3 times the amount of room required. This may sound like a huge safety margin, but if you try it next time you're out, you'll notice just how quickly you use up your space.

Note: The 3 times rule works well at speeds of 50 - 70mph, but at lower speeds you will require more space.
Sometimes an overtake opportunity doesn't always present itself as a long straight view without obstacles. Large slow moving vehicles often block your view, so you may need to drop back to properly observe the road ahead. Remember you can look down the inside as well as the outside. It is incredibly important that you can see 100% of the space you intend to use. If you try to piece the road together in your mind from glimpses you've had, you will be amazed at what can be hidden.

The best time to plan your overtake is when you first spot the target vehicle. Aim to gather information about the road ahead. You may be able to commit straight to the overtake as you approach, rather than braking and following for a while. Above all don't get obsessed with passing, they'll be many opportunities during your ride, so why risk it if its not 100%.

Other Considerations
Junctions - While it may appear clear during the approach, you never know if a vehicle will appear while you're passing. They wont be expecting to see a bike on the wrong side of the road and may pull out into your path. Additionally, the target vehicle may be planning a last minute turn without checking behind or indicating.
Humps and bends - These can easily obscure your view of the road ahead. You often have a better chance of passing safely immediately after the bend than before it.
Reducing limits - If the speed limit ahead reduces, then you will need to allow enough time to pass and slow down without causing the target vehicle to brake.
Shrinking gaps - If your return gap is shrinking due to braking or accelerating vehicles, then the chances are, it wont be there when you need it.
Three a breast - no matter how wide a single carriage way is, you should generally avoid passing a vehicle at the same time as an on-coming vehicle. Apart from the increased collision risk, it may panic the drivers of the other vehicle. In any case it is normally possible to avoid it by getting the timing right.

Overtaking & the High Way Code
Solid white line or no overtaking signs - You will be committing an offence if any part of your bike (or you) crosses the solid line.
Zig-Zags at crossings - If a queue is due to a crossing, then you may not overtake the lead vehicle. However, you may overtake if the queue is not caused by the crossing.
Hatched areas - Their are two kinds hatched reservations (solid or dashed). The Highway code says you must not enter a solid hatched reservation and may only enter a dashed reservation if it is safe and necessary to do so. The definition of safe and necessary is obviously open to interpretation. if you decide to use a hatched area, be aware that another road user, police officer or even a magistrate, may have a different definition.
Speed Limits & 'zero' tolerance - Ideally you need to minimise your time exposed to danger, by overtaking as quickly as possible. However, many police forces are reducing their tolerance to excess speed. If you are following a vehicle doing 50-55 mph in a national limit, then it is likely that you will need to temporarily exceed the limit to pass the target vehicle safely. Exactly how fast they will allow you to exceed the limit is not common knowledge. However, by keeping your excess to no more than 25% (e.g. <75mph in a 60mph limit) for the brief period of the overtake, you are less likely to be stopped. If you need to go much faster than this to safely complete the overtake, then it’s likely that the gap was a bit on the tight side to start with.

Closing the Gap
There is probably only one situation when you can sacrifice your safe following distance and that is when you are about to overtake. You do this to minimise your exposure to the offside and reduce the distance you need to travel. You will find it a lot harder to perform if you start your overtake from way back.
As you move up into the following position use the time it takes to gather information. Check who's behind (are they also looking to pass?). Check for additional hazards e.g. road junctions, site entrances etc. If you find that your gap has gone, don't remain in the following position too long. It's better to appear to be attached to the rear of the target vehicle on a long bungie cord (continually moving up and pulling back) rather than tailgating. By pulling back you'll get a better look at the road and wont hassle the target vehicle.

Moving out to Pass
Once you're happy that your plan is safe you need to prepare to move. Selecting the right gear is essential for a good overtake. You should choose a gear that is low enough to provide enough power to complete the move, but high enough not to require an up-shift during the overtake. Of course it goes without saying that you'll need to perform essential observations and indicate if appropriate before moving out to the offside.

Overtaking Tips
Before you open the throttle and commit yourself to overtake, take advantage of your last chance to abort. In this position you have a better view of the road ahead and can easily drop back to the following position if its starts to look risky. You'll also get a better view of your intended re-entry point. Never commit to an overtake in the hope that a gap will appear, gaps have a tendency to disappear rather than appear.
There is nothing wrong with moving out to the offside to get a better view, but it is important that you hold back enough from the target vehicle to allow you to drop back in. It is far safer to do this check now rather than having to brake while alongside. It also lets everyone know what you are planning to do.

Once you've decided to go for it, it's important not to whack open the throttle, scream by and then have to stand on your nose to get back in. Good acceleration and deceleration sense is important - only use sufficient power to allow you to overtake safely. You'll also need to make good use of the ‘advanced system’ when planning to re-enter the traffic stream. You can actually start to slow down as you complete the move in readiness for rejoining the traffic. This makes life a bit easier when passing a queue of vehicles one by one (or hopping) as it will allow you to rejoin the flow more smoothly and avoid unnecessary braking which may upset the overtaken driver.

However, don't be to eager to move back in once you've passed the original target. Take advantage of your position, you'll probably have a better view of the road and may be able to extend the overtake to pass other vehicles.

Finally...
Once you have safely overtaken all the target vehicles, start to slow down to rejoin the traffic. You need to check the return slot observe the positions of other vehicles - ensure they are aware that you plan to move back in. Remember to thank any vehicle which has deliberately moved over or held back to make your life easier.

Dealing with Traffic
Most experienced motorcyclist agree that the great thing about motorcycles is that you don't have to queue in busy traffic. As a car driver, the sight of queues of traffic can mean anything from a 10 minute to 2 hour delay. The motorcycle rider however, can overtake queuing traffic with little hindrance, provided they take additional care.

Filtering is Risky

Queuing drivers get frustrated, this can lead them to take last minute decisions. When filtering you have to assume nobody can see you. Be particularly aware and expect the odd impromptu ‘U’ turn, lane change or turn as drivers attempt to beat the traffic. It's also worth pointing out that many drivers feel that filtering is dangerous, queue jumping or even illegal, I was once questioned by a driver as to why I don't queue up like every one else? This attitude can sometimes lead to blocking or swerving to make your task harder. Obviously if this happens, you should hold back rather than risk it.

Managing your speed is particularly important, as it is very easy to slip through queuing or slow moving traffic at high speed, but with very little time to react, your chances of avoiding a hazard are slim. The 20:20 guide is a useful way of setting a sensible filtering speed limit and works as follows: Only filter up to a maximum of 20mph faster than traffic flow and only filter traffic doing a maximum of 20mph. This basically means that you will return to traffic flow when your speed reaches 40mph. Although it may sound slow, taken as guide (e.g. + or – 5-10mph) rather than rule it can work well. It’s also worth noting that we gain maximum benefit for minimal risk when filtering slow traffic and take maximum risk for minimum gain when filtering faster traffic.

Watch Out For...
While filtering you need to keep a constant eye out for changes:
Stationary cars - present less threat than slow moving cars, so be prepared to slot back into line when the traffic starts to move off. Don't attempt to filter traffic which is moving close to the speed limit, as the number of return points will reduce, as will your ability to make safe progress.
Junctions - present a hazard as cars may not check for overtaking vehicles before pulling out. Also look out for turn lanes which could result in someone moving into your path.
Pedestrians - may see the queue as an opportunity to cross the road and may not expect to see you coming on the outside.
Cyclist - can often get through smaller gaps than motorbikes and may attempt to squeeze past you, so keep a good eye on your rear and blind spots. [/img][/b]

just found these threads again.


do you think that a sticky could be made with links to these threads ?

ill read over em when ive got some time. not seen them before.

[TSM]

nice copy from www.motorcycle-training.f2s.com

Actualy a website for a school in london, but has got a good set of info on riding.

That website made me do U-turn on the 125 realy easy, but not on a 500 (my problem).

Originally Posted by bikageboy

do you think that a sticky could be made with links to these threads ?

Not really, it's all in Roadcraft and if anyone doesn't yet have a copy it's certainly a good investment:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/...547798-8340435

Might be an idea to put links to the IAM and ROSPA on the main site though.

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yeah - ill get me a book of the road craft.
i know it sounds daft but many other riders and car drivers are really not interested in improving their skills one bit.
their attitudes are "im a safe driver - if i wasnt - i never would have passed my test"

gets to me at times - esp the arrogance of some drivers.

I got a road craft book. Dunno if some are different but the one I got was a waste of money.

Ok there were a few decent tips, but most of it was simple common sense, the rest was just patronising

Originally Posted by Flamin_Squirrel

I got a road craft book. Dunno if some are different but the one I got was a waste of money.

Ok there were a few decent tips, but most of it was simple common sense, the rest was just patronising

Agree with Jordon on this, all though I wouldn't go as far as too call it patronizing, more just a case of stating the obvious.

Reminds me, I haven't read through my copy for a while, must do it again, I think it's good to keep refreshed...

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