building from scratch

[SheepShagger]

Originally Posted by Jayneflakes

Thirty quid? You were lucky...

[SheepShagger]

Some more goodies turned up today, nice shiny new rear disc, some to fasteners for said disc and my brembo SC series front pads. Found myself an 07 ZX10R shock for cheap on the bay, I'll send that off to be rebuilt and fettled, anyone got any good recommendations for having this carried out?

[maviczap]

MCT are very good, but a bit far from you, but if you're posting, then no problem

http://www.mctsuspension.com/

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by maviczap

MCT are very good, but a bit far from you, but if you're posting, then no problem

http://www.mctsuspension.com/

Seconded, these guys did my fork rebuild when I put the R1 forks in my SV. Excellent service from them and great advice too.

[SheepShagger]

Cheers guys, gonna give them a ring tomorrow and see what my options are, the seller of the shock has agreed to hold the item for me and will send it direct to the company of my choosing to save me shipping it to them myself.

[SheepShagger]

Picked up my wheels just now, freshly balanced with new rubber and the Brembo discs all torqued up. Couldnt resist sliding the axle in, poping on a fork leg, and bolting up a caliper to see how it looks.

I know it's a long way off bit these little things help us keep going



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[Bibio]

looking good.

if i'm not mistaken those are 2003 gsxr1000 forks and an srad wheel. if so then your going to run into problems.

if you use srad yokes to keep your steering lock you are going to have to space the discs out by 3.5mm each side to keep them inline with the callipers as the srad yoke fork centres are 214mm but the later ones are 207mm centres. good news is that you can use the axle and spacer/nut. if you are going to space the discs out remember that you will need longer disc bolts. i would also recommend that you use light fork oil (silkolene rsf 2.5w)on those 1000 forks as they are pretty harsh. you also need to factor in what weight you are. if your heavier than 13st the springs will need changed as they are only .85 stock.

if you use the later yokes you loose the steering lock you then have to find a way of reducing the discs by 1mm each side and reduce the spacer/nut by 3.5mm or get a 3.5mm spacer/washer made, wont matter about the axle as it will just protrude an extra 3.5mm.

due to the problems mentioned i always recommend that people stick to complete front ends from a given year including the wheel.

[SheepShagger]

Cheers bibio,

I'm a bit gutted if that's the case as took all these parts from the duckman racing youtube vid and apparently it all went together with no fuss. As for the fork springs I've got some öhlins springs in 10kg flavour on order.
The zx10r shock i bought is currently being stripped by MCT siuspension and will be valved and sprung for my weight range too.

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[Bibio]

pop a list up of the parts you have including years, this includes the year of the yokes.

you must weigh 18+st if you intend to use 1.0kg springs. one of the most common mistakes people make is looking at race spec when the bike is used on the road, do not use race spec if the intended purpose of the bike is road use as it will just hop, skip and jump all over the place.

depending on parts all could not be lost. if you use all later parts but the srad wheel then it does work but your discs are offset by 1mm each side. some people live with this no problem, its not like the pistons will pop out when the pads get low. then when funds permit and one becomes available then get the proper one and sell the one you have as the discs will go straight on the later wheel. the wheel your after is the 'diamond' spoke type.

to keep the steering lock with later parts you can get a custom top yoke made for around £150.

[SheepShagger]

As you said, the forks are gsxr 1000 03-04 yokes and wheel/axle are 99 srad 750, calipers are 08 gsxr 1000 and discs are busa/tl1000

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