High mileage and Engine smoke, what to do?

Hi, My SK2 curvy uses lots of oil and I've only just noticed it smokes a fair bit on startup. It also seems to smell of oil quite badly which makes me think the rings or valve guides are shagged.
I have to top it up from the bottom of the sight glass every 500-1000 miles or so.
Its done 63K miles and its not in the greatest condition as its seen 3 winters and has the usual corrosion and pitted forks etc.
The dealer offered me £800 exchange but I'm not sure I'm in a position to change it yet, and besides, it really owes me nothing for the mileage it has, If I go and spend £5K+ on a new bike its going to be just as shagged in 3 years time I'm not sure its worth it.
Anyway, I'm guessing there is no point faffing about with the engine in mine and its better to replace it? how long roughly should I expect this to take me working outside on my own?
I saw a couple of engines on ebay for around 400-450, should I expect the carbs with this? and what else should I be doing whilst I have the engine on the floor?

Cheers
Mags

[rictus01]

You're right the best course of action is probably to swap the engine out, I haven't brought an SV engine in the last year or so and would have been looking at £350 mark (but this could be out dated now).

I wouldn't expect the carbs to be attached, but would expect the engine to be complete (as in starter motor/ front sprocket cover), after all yours should be fine.

If you've removed your engine before and the bolts are free, then you can remove the engine in under an hour and about the same to re-fit. however if not then arm yourself with plenty of WD40 and the right tools (you'll need either the suzuki special tool/ or something made, to undo the main engine mount) and give yourself 3 hours each way (although you should be quicker putting it back in as you'll know where all the bits came from), the engine is light enough to be dropped and lifted by one person, but my advice would be to get someone to help or at least to get a trolley jack and bit of wood (stop the jack from damaging the engine) and lift the engine on that.

no major hassles with it though, just take your time and check everything twice before dropping the engine, just to be on the safe side, another tip is to take plenty of digi photos before and during the process, if you don't need them that's fine, but if you get stuck they just might save the day, depending on how good you are with this sort of thing I'd also recommend getting hold of a manual.

Good luck.

Cheers Mark.

Nice one thanks.
The only reason I ask about about carbs is that my front one is quite heavily corroded on the outside, but still works fine AFAIK.
I'll keep my eye out for an engine then!
I've got a manual (forget the name) and I've got access to the Suzuki one on PDF, I've always used this and found it great, I'll take a look at the engine mount one and see if its worth me buying the tool or trying to make something up.

Mags

[rictus01]

can't remember but I think the special tool is a bit expensive you might be able to borrow one or like I did make one from a old socket using an angle grinder .

As to carbs, generally they are sold in pairs and not normally that hard to get hold of, I'd use the opportunity to make sure they are ok at the same time (chec k the screws and choke cable aren't seized up).

another thought, the rear pipe, don't bother trying to undo the stub pipe, just undo the clamp and leave the pipe in place until the engine is out, saves your knuckles (you'll know what I mean when you see it).

Cheers Mark

[Biker Biggles]

Does your engine run well and not make any nasty noises?As long as you keep it topped up with oil and it runs OK I would'nt be in too much of a hurry to change it.By all means keep a weather eye out for a bargain replacement but in the mean time they do keep going with a fair bit of top end wear.My son's SV has done about 77,000 miles and uses a fair bit of oil but still runs well.We bought a replacement lump for it a few months ago but hav'nt fitted it yet.Will do it when the old one starts to play up.

Wouldnt it be easier/cheaper to just change pistons and rings first?? Just an idea..

OK, I'll see if I can make the tool, I'll take a look.
Yes the engine runs ok, it feels down on power but it does the job, I just keep topping the oil up. Its hard to tell if it makes any funny noises, I have an old scorpion race can on that I'm sure has no innards left so it sounds a bit rough, I keep thinking about putting the standard can back on but I commute through loads of traffic every day and as they say, loud cans save lives!
Its worth me sticking the old can back just to see how noisy it is I guess, I've always been meticulous on the servicing, it always gets frsh oil and filter every 4K miles, which is roughly every 2 months on the mileage I do.

Not sure about just doing the pistons/rings, seems like a lot of work to me?

Mags

I second Biker Biggles, keep it topped up and bide your time until you find a bargain replacement.

What oil do you use in it? lets face it the engine is knacked anyway, why don't you buy some nice thick and cheap supermarket car oil and shove that in? not only will it be thicker and therefore burn less, it will cost less to throw in it every 5 mins

[northwind]

If you want it fixed, it might be economic to buy an engine with a knackered bottom end (around £50 usually) and swap barrels, pistons, and mix and match valves etc till you get a working set... That's what I'd do, but then I'd enjoy doing the work It probably makes more sense to replace the whole lump, really. Easier, too.

Originally Posted by northwind

If you want it fixed, it might be economic to buy an engine with a knackered bottom end (around £50 usually) and swap barrels, pistons, and mix and match valves etc till you get a working set... That's what I'd do, but then I'd enjoy doing the work It probably makes more sense to replace the whole lump, really. Easier, too.

has 2 b cheaper than complete lump, but how much are top end gasket sets?