SV1000 offset

[650]

Morning,

I'm wondering if anyone has the ACTUAL offset of the naked SV1000, I know the S/N models differ slightly. Having figures would be mighty handy...

I think they're as follows:

Naked: 25mm
S: 30mm

As those right?

As the GSXR forks are about an inch shorter (I think? - unsure on ACTUAL SV1000 fork length as info varies wildly on the internet) I was thinking of having them lengthened while being revalved/sprung by Maxton. Which should correct the ride height - the lengthened offset should then make the bike quicker to turn in without being twitchy (I stand to be corrected)

Lemme know!

Ta

[Bibio]

what you plan on doing is going to cost you an arm and a leg.

what you are better doing is playing with the rear height. this is why most aftermarket shocks come with an adjustable cleat.

are you on your tippytoes or flat footed while sitting on the bike?
what weight are you?
have you changed the rear shock?
what are the chicken strip sizes front and rear (a pic will help)?
what tyres do you have on the bike?

it may surprise you but tyres can make a huge difference to stability, the pointier the tyre the quicker it will turn in.

handlebar width can also make a difference to how the bike feels. the wider the bars the less input you need so can make things feel twitchy. it took me a while to get used to wider bars even though the gilles that i was using were around the same height.

dont get too hung up with things being 'how they were'....

[650]

Just so I know we're on the same page, this isn't about me being on the bike and struggling to get my feet down. I wear a 32-34" leg so height isn't an issue.

My thoughts are that by fitting the GSXR front end, I've changed the rake and trail (to precisely what, I don't know as I've not done the maths yet). I've added 7mm offset, lost 15mm fork length - this will have had (if my understanding is correct) a dramatic effect on the rake and trail. While the bike feels OK (and arguably could do with a suspension setup with someone more in the know than me) it's a bit twitchy and I'd quite like to get it back to stock height at least. I can either get some fork cap extenders OR I can get Maxton to put their GP cartridges into the forks. I'm intending on having them revalved anyway so might as well go the whole hogg...I don't intend on selling the bike, ever.

Weight in gear: about 85KG I think
Shock: Stock item but have an Ohlins to go on that's a couple mm shorter
Chicken strips: Rear - right to the very edge, I don't fear corners! Front - not far off. Never tracked it, nor do I have lovely long sweepers (or a death wish!)

Just to throw some figures in:

Triple clamp offset:

SV1000 (naked model): 25mm (I stand to be corrected)
GSXR1000: 32mm

Fork length:

SV1000 (naked model): 735mm
GSXR1000: 720mm

The front wheels are identical on both bikes and use a 120/70-17 tyre, I appreciate even tyres make a difference to this whole shebang, though.. I've got...if memory serves me right...PR2's on there.

The bars are the stock naked SV, albeit I think I need marginally wider ones to sort some cable clearance issues out (plus they have those groove to locate the bars in the stock risers, which are now on show)

Of course...I'm more than open to being told I'm wasting my time and to leave it as-is!

[Bibio]

was asking if you were flat footed coz if you can spare around 7-10mm seat height then this will bring the bike more level and not so twitchy in corners. PR2's are pretty neutral so its not that. if the front has just a little chicken strip and the back none then i would guess that things are fine. its when you start running out of front and the rear has some left is when things are messed up.

TBH if the bike feels good but just a little twitchy then it could be down to how the dampening is set up.

the stock springs on the gsxr1k k3-4 are .85 so at 13-14st you could do with going up to .9 springs. this will give a little more rider height so the forks will be sitting slightly higher.

personally i would put the ohlins shock in (sprung for your weight) and put .9 springs in the front and take it from there. depending on how many miles the ohlins has done then i would get it serviced and get the forks serviced. the front forks on the GSXR are pretty hard on bumps so might look at getting the valve shim sorted better for road use.

[650]

Brand spanking new Ohlins. Meant for a 650 but the spring is the right weight for me. Think there's 2mm off the stock 1000 shock length. Yeah, definitely agree they're hard haha, it's amazing on nice bits of road but a bit jarring on anything other than that.

Which forks did you go for on yours? The K6/K7 600/750? They're the longest I believe with a 30mm offset

[Bibio]

remember that the sv1000 is a goood bit heavier then the 650 so what is the right spring for the 650 will be a bit soft for the 1000. if its an ohlins then it will have an adjustable cleat which is usually +-5-10mm depending on manufacturer so wind it down to zero, this will bring the front noise up and increase the rake.

my bike has gsxr 1000 k3-4 yokes with 600/750 k4-5 forks. the valving shim stack has been altered by myself for road use and i use my own oil mix. its still not perfect but its not as bad as stock. the difficulty in altering a shim stack is to make the low speed stack just stiff enough to let the bleed valves (clickers) stay shut until you hit a bump, then the mid stack for larger bumps after that and the high stack for very large square edge bumps. i'm nearly there...

[650]

Well you're clearly clued up on the innards in a way I'm not! I wouldn't dare take them to bits at the moment. Might buy some bent ones one day so I can faff about.

Take a look at this, filmed it this evening as I got home. Note the sound when depressing and the adjuster up top. I think I'm safe in saying they need looking at!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqRpQlKywaQ

I don't think it's the bearings clunking as they're tapered, brand new and adjusted correctly

Oh and in relation to the Ohlins. I thought a spring weight was just that...regardless of the bike it was on. Suppose thinking about it, it's not? Bit confusing! This is the one in question:

[PyroUK]

I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure the adjusters shouldn't move like that!

I'd be concerned that something in the upper assembly has gotten busted somehow. When I attempted to do my oil in my Tona that upper assembly was all rock solid

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[650]

Haha, I know. I'm going to lay it up till March next year and have the forks sent off to Maxton (or maybe K-tech, waiting on an Email back from them) and take it from there. Hoping it's not too serious but not end of the world if it's scrap, I'll just buy another from somewhere.

[Bibio]

looks like the oring is perished on the rebound rod or thread is stripped. either way its needing looked at.

i'll bet that clicking noise is the brake pads moving in the callipers, mines sound a bit like that.

messing with cartridge internals involves buying some tools but you can use common everyday tools as well. the hardest part is removing the oil locks which requires a vice, 20mm plastic tube clamps, a long steel tube and hammer. once the oil lock is off then you just slide it out the main tube then grind the end of the damper rod to take the nut off to get the valves out. a few hundred £ will buy you all the tools including the spring compressor. once you have them its easy to service forks.

spring weight is dependant on two things, bike weight and rider weight. you set a bike up for static sag first then put rider on to CHECK rider sag which tells you if you need the spring rates changed. a common mistake is people setting up rider sag and not bike sag. the spring rates set the rider sag. another common mistake is people setting up a bike for track use (as the internet is full of this information) when using it on the road then wonder why they are rattling their teeth out. obviously there is a bit more to setting the bike up but not much and its only fine tuning for individual rider preference on 'feel'.

dont forget to send an email to MCT as they know their beans road setup as well as track