Chain adjustment?? - SV650.org

05-04-06, 07:52 AM

Tensioned the chain last night following a clean and wax.

I bought Wurth Chain and Brake cleaner 500ml. aerosol and Wurth Chain Wax 500ml. aerosol.
Must say I am well pleased with these products although I have not ridden the bike since applying the wax and don't know what way it will perform/fling etc.
both cans for £10.00 which I thought was good value and should do me for yonks.

Anyway my question(s) is:

Book recommends 20 - 30mm.
I put a rule against the chain at a point roughly about an inch from the end of the side stand. Aligned the rule 30mm line with the chain pin and then pushed the chain upwards and took the reading, it now varies between 20mm and 30mm (was over 30mm before adjustment). as I rotated the wheel and took a number of readings.
I aligned the 30mm. mark with the chain sitting relaxed i.e. I did not push down on the chain - Is this correct? or is the 20 - 30 reading when the chain is pushed to both extremes in both directions?

I have noticed that the plate at the end of the swing arm on the back brake side can be moved by hand once the wheel nut is tightened up (both alignment marks are in line) - Is this acceptable or should I tighten that adjustment nut further to stop the end plate being able to be moved?

Final question do you recommend the 100Nm torque or do I just tighten the sh~te out of the nut as we probably all do in the car?
I do not have a Totque wrench but could borrow one.
I sort of know the answer to this question and will torque nut.

Sorry for the questions but this is an area that I want to know is right as it has a fairly major effect on safety.

johnnyrod · 05-04-06, 11:22 AM

Chekc the tension at the tightest point - the loose bits aren't as big a concern as a tight spot overstressing things.

As long as the wheel is lined up correctly then there should be no looseness in the adjuster on the right hand side. You are winding both adjuster by the same amount when you tension the chain, aren't you?

05-04-06, 01:31 PM

The chain at its tightest point is around 20mm +, and inside the 30mm limit at the slackest point.

Both nuts were adjusted by the smallest amount, both equally.
Now that everything is tightened up I have been told by a mate at work to pull up the nut to the point where the blanking plate will be held.
He also said to check the pads are not rubbing the disc and that the Sprocket teeth mesh smoothly with the chain. Going on memory pads are not rubbing and sprocket is meshing cleanly.

I just find it strange that 1 off blanking plate would be slightly loose if both were adjusted equal amounts.

I guess if everything seems to be aligned, do as he says, and take up the slack in the 1 off adjusting nut.

The marking plates on each swing arm seem to be a bit of a joke as they move around all over the place when you are tightening the wheel nut. I guess they are there for guide purposes only?

07-04-06, 03:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnnyrod

Chekc the tension at the tightest point - the loose bits aren't as big a concern as a tight spot overstressing things.

Also, sit on the bike when you are at the tightest spot, then do your tests. When the swingarm... swings its arm, it tightens things up a wee bit.

embee · 07-04-06, 12:40 PM

As said earlier, always err on the side of slack rather than tight.

Personally I reckon anything under 30mm is too tight, do the recommended trick of checking with someone sitting oin the bike and you'll find the chain gets quite a bit tighter.

I'd guess the most likely cause for the endplate to be loose is that you adjusted them with the wheel-spindle completely loose, then tightened the spindle and it shifted slightly. I usually have the wheel-spindle just ever so slightly nipped while adjusting the chain, the adjusters then pull against a slight resistance and usually don't move.

The wheel spindle isn't all that tight, 100Nm isn't a huge amount (pointy, 65Nm curvy IIRC). In context, if you weigh around 70-80kg, or 11-12stone, then it's equivalent to your weight on the end of a lever barely 150mm or 6" long, alternatively half your weight on 300mm or 1' long.

05-04-06, 07:52 AM	#1
GC-SV Guest Posts: n/a	Chain adjustment?? Tensioned the chain last night following a clean and wax. I bought Wurth Chain and Brake cleaner 500ml. aerosol and Wurth Chain Wax 500ml. aerosol. Must say I am well pleased with these products although I have not ridden the bike since applying the wax and don't know what way it will perform/fling etc. both cans for £10.00 which I thought was good value and should do me for yonks. Anyway my question(s) is: Book recommends 20 - 30mm. I put a rule against the chain at a point roughly about an inch from the end of the side stand. Aligned the rule 30mm line with the chain pin and then pushed the chain upwards and took the reading, it now varies between 20mm and 30mm (was over 30mm before adjustment). as I rotated the wheel and took a number of readings. I aligned the 30mm. mark with the chain sitting relaxed i.e. I did not push down on the chain - Is this correct? or is the 20 - 30 reading when the chain is pushed to both extremes in both directions? I have noticed that the plate at the end of the swing arm on the back brake side can be moved by hand once the wheel nut is tightened up (both alignment marks are in line) - Is this acceptable or should I tighten that adjustment nut further to stop the end plate being able to be moved? Final question do you recommend the 100Nm torque or do I just tighten the sh~te out of the nut as we probably all do in the car? I do not have a Totque wrench but could borrow one. I sort of know the answer to this question and will torque nut. Sorry for the questions but this is an area that I want to know is right as it has a fairly major effect on safety.

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05-04-06, 11:22 AM	#2
johnnyrod Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Doncaster, oop norf Posts: 2,122	Chekc the tension at the tightest point - the loose bits aren't as big a concern as a tight spot overstressing things. As long as the wheel is lined up correctly then there should be no looseness in the adjuster on the right hand side. You are winding both adjuster by the same amount when you tension the chain, aren't you?

05-04-06, 01:31 PM	#3
GC-SV Guest Posts: n/a	The chain at its tightest point is around 20mm +, and inside the 30mm limit at the slackest point. Both nuts were adjusted by the smallest amount, both equally. Now that everything is tightened up I have been told by a mate at work to pull up the nut to the point where the blanking plate will be held. He also said to check the pads are not rubbing the disc and that the Sprocket teeth mesh smoothly with the chain. Going on memory pads are not rubbing and sprocket is meshing cleanly. I just find it strange that 1 off blanking plate would be slightly loose if both were adjusted equal amounts. I guess if everything seems to be aligned, do as he says, and take up the slack in the 1 off adjusting nut. The marking plates on each swing arm seem to be a bit of a joke as they move around all over the place when you are tightening the wheel nut. I guess they are there for guide purposes only?

07-04-06, 12:40 PM	#5
embee Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2,801	As said earlier, always err on the side of slack rather than tight. Personally I reckon anything under 30mm is too tight, do the recommended trick of checking with someone sitting oin the bike and you'll find the chain gets quite a bit tighter. I'd guess the most likely cause for the endplate to be loose is that you adjusted them with the wheel-spindle completely loose, then tightened the spindle and it shifted slightly. I usually have the wheel-spindle just ever so slightly nipped while adjusting the chain, the adjusters then pull against a slight resistance and usually don't move. The wheel spindle isn't all that tight, 100Nm isn't a huge amount (pointy, 65Nm curvy IIRC). In context, if you weigh around 70-80kg, or 11-12stone, then it's equivalent to your weight on the end of a lever barely 150mm or 6" long, alternatively half your weight on 300mm or 1' long.