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25-09-17, 10:01 AM | #1 |
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650 oil sump
Can this be replaced? I've got an unbelievably seized oil sump plug on the 650. I'm going to try bolt extractors and so on in the near future. However, I like to think ahead and want to know if I can replace the sump if it's beyond removal.I know I can extract the oil via suction, but I'd rather mend this so the next buyer (if/when I come to sell) doesn't have anything to worry about.
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93 VFR750 - WAY too many mods to list. Crashed 04 SV1000 - Bar end mirrors. Belly pan. Seat cowl. K4 GSXR600 K6 front end and custom top yoke. R6 Brembo MC |
25-09-17, 10:55 AM | #2 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
If it was me, I'd be looking at drilling it out to collapse the thread, but as a last resort. I wouldn't be using a bolt extractor.
Heat the casing around it & lube it up. As you're in East London, this guy does some amazing recovery work from disasters https://www.facebook.com/threadworxuk/
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25-09-17, 01:31 PM | #3 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
I'll keep that in mind, the bike's in Lancashire though - I use it as a run around while I'm up there with work. I'll deffo keep his details handy though as that could be a life saver in the future.
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25-09-17, 01:55 PM | #4 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
there is no separate 'sump pan' on the SV. its all the same as the main crank casing.
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25-09-17, 03:36 PM | #5 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
Thought so. Couldn't see anything hold it in place but thought best to check.
Fingers crossed the bolt extractors work. Don't fancy spending a penny more than needed on this bike.
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93 VFR750 - WAY too many mods to list. Crashed 04 SV1000 - Bar end mirrors. Belly pan. Seat cowl. K4 GSXR600 K6 front end and custom top yoke. R6 Brembo MC |
25-09-17, 04:12 PM | #6 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
Have you ever had the plug out?
Its not uncommon for people to strip the thread on these as its a steel plug into an alloy sump and sometimes the "cure" is to put the plug back "permanently" and change the oil by other means.
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25-09-17, 05:31 PM | #7 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
i usually find that sump plugs are hard to get off if the washer has not been replaced in a while, this makes the washer go brittle and compressed. here are two things to try before drilling it out.
repetitive taps on the plug head with hammer. this will slightly crush the washer and move the plug in the threads and is usually enough to get it moving. dont go mad hitting the plug with the hammer as the casings are cast alloy. placing a ring end of a combination spanner on the plug, holding the ring part on the plug head then tapping the open end with a hammer to loosen it (hillbilly impact). its a sharp quick tap with the hammer that is required and FFS remember you are working upside down. as Biggles has said though its usually due to muppets not using their fingers to wind the plug in before tightening so cross thread it or indeed tighten it farrrr too much and strip the thread. remember its the washer that stops it leaking and to a point not how tight it is. |
25-09-17, 06:42 PM | #8 | |
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Re: 650 oil sump
Quote:
I was wondering whether to leave it in place but I'm a stickler for having things right. It's coming out!
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25-09-17, 06:43 PM | #9 | |
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Re: 650 oil sump
Quote:
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25-09-17, 07:42 PM | #10 |
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Re: 650 oil sump
Try a pair of stilsons and a bit of heat, the alloy will expand more than the steel of the plug and with stilsons the harder you turn the harder they grip.
Otherwise Irwin do sets of nut / bolt extractors that have same hardened helix as the internal stud extractors but they fit externally over the nut or bolt head. Have to be used with care as they can overshoot the sump plug head and put pressure onto the alloy of the casing, with very costly result. A bit of local heat is your best bet when screwing steel fasteners out of alloy due to different expansion rates of the two metals.
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