What have you tinkered with today?

[dirtydog]

Fitted my new billet top yoke and renthal bars which look to be about a mile wide, they’ll need to be cut down a lot I think


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[Sean_Morgan]

Finally got round to setting the TPS thanks to the 2004 step by step guide provided by coombest. Thanks for the guide if you are still a member
Turned into a longer job than usual due to the idle adjuster being seized, off came the air box and out came the WD40, another job done that I kept meaning to get round to
The bike certainly seems to pick up better at lower revs but I haven't been out on it, its raining here.
Previously it wouldn't hold steady revs at around 2000rpm, it was quite lumpy and seemed to wander slightly (I know what I mean )
If it brightens up I'll go out and see how it rides, or it'll wait till tomorrow

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[Adam Ef]

A bit of work on the CRF.
Air box mod.. not sure how much difference this is actually going to make.





And then moved the EJK off the bars (where it's being living as I adjust it with each ride) as I'm now happy with the way it's fueling, and tucked it in at the back next to the speedo healer (needed due to the sprocket swap and general inaccuracy of the speedo when stock anyway).





Also finally got round to doing the oil and filter change that I'm fairly sure didn't happen as part of the "service" the dealer gave it before I picked it up. Bit of a faff. Involved removing the R&G engine cover... which needed the bash plate and the brake pedal removing too before it could come off. Then the oil filter on the CRF is in the engine behind a cover and gasket that needs unbolting. Not the simplest or quickest oil filter change I've ever done.

[Craig380]

What is the airbox mod, Adam? Extra air holes? The part you're holding looks quite restrictive for a 250, but I suppose it's got to prevent muck, bullets and water getting it too.

[Adam Ef]

There's a snorkel up top too, but quite a small aperture even with the snorkel removed. This is supposedly to allow a bit more air to get in for the freer flowing FMF exhaust that it came fitted with, so that the EJK can set the fueling right for both. Such a simple little bike that everyone fits loads of these complicated additions to

[Dave20046]

New spring in the old workhorse (cage) and checked the dampers.

[garynortheast]

Took the rear tyre off again as it was leaking from the bead. Washed out the Tyreweld I used to keep it up on my trip to Yorkshire, cleaned the entire bead area of the rim with wet and dry, and refitted the tyre.

Cleaning my rim. Maybe I should rephrase that?


Reseat tyre by garynortheast

All back together and hopefully leak free.


Reseat tyre by garynortheast

[SV650rules]

Fitted a voltmeter ( recommended by R1ffR4ff in another thread ) to the AL7 with a couple of spring clips fixed with M3 countersunks to a piece of 30x10x2mm aluminium angle ( i had it in garage but got it from Wickes last year for a job in the house ). The voltmeter reads about 0.2 volts low compared to my good quality voltmeter, but as long as you know you can allow for it. The blue display is easy to read in daylight and is waterproof. The width fits between the handlebar clamps on the bike and is wired across sidelight bulb with a 1 amp fuse in + cable. Put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape around the spring legs to grip handlebar and stop it scratching. There is a pre-cut piece of 3M double sided tape supplied with voltmeter, that is why I used countersunk screws to mount spring clips to aluminium to keep mounting area as flat as possible. The sprong clips mounting means I can rotate the meter to get rid of reflections etc.

A PDF photo of the fitted meter is attached.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motor...edirect=mobile


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Merriway%C2...92997&sr=8-242

--

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

Fitted a voltmeter ( recommended by R1ffR4ff in another thread ) to the AL7 with a couple of spring clips fixed with M3 countersunks to a piece of 30x10x2mm aluminium angle ( i had it in garage but got it from Wickes last year for a job in the house ). The voltmeter reads about 0.2 volts low compared to my good quality voltmeter, but as long as you know you can allow for it. The blue display is easy to read in daylight and is waterproof. The width fits between the handlebar clamps on the bike and is wired across sidelight bulb with a 1 amp fuse in + cable. Put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape around the spring legs to grip handlebar and stop it scratching.

A PDF photo of the fitted meter is attached.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motor...edirect=mobile


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Merriway%C2...92997&sr=8-242

Nice one

Because I tend to guinea pig stuff like my cheap £14.95 R/R(Which is still going strong after two years) I needed a way to keep an eye on my Charging system hence I did similar to you. Yours meter looks nicer though

I was considering fitting one of these into my Rev counter but I do like the proper volts being shown and like you allow for the slight resistance effect/voltage drop from using the Horn as the supply,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAMMATRON...IAAOxycmBS2Hv2

[SV650rules]

That is similar to this one ( think a link was posted by Seeker ) I did contact this company and they did not have to 10mm one, only 8mm and 5mm
I did not go for it because at anything above 13.1 volts it goes green, and 13.1 volts will not keep battery charged ( the float voltage is over 13.6
volts and that will just about maintain charge if no load on battery - most battery 'maintainers' settle on 13.6 to 13.8 volts for long term
maintenance of battery when battery is fully charged) - I would rather have the voltmeter readout and use my own judgement.....

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbr...ge-monitor.php

I went for the sidelight power on my bike for voltmeter because by turning key to sidelight position I can get a truer snapshot of battery voltage reading
with only power or front and rear LED sidelights draining from battery rather than turn ignition on fully and have everything else including headlight sucking on the battery...