Chain oiler that doesn't need "babying"

[aesmith]

Hi,

I had vacuum operated Scottoilers on previous bikes, and for the last two years I've had a Tutoro Auto on the SV. With both to keep an eye on them at all times, and keep tweaking the control to keep the flow rate at a reasonable level, and make sure they're actually working at all. If they stop it doesn't take long for the chain to run dry.

At the moment I'm getting fed up with the Tutoro, almost every time it's topped up the flow rate goes to pot, this time it's stopped altogether even though I've opened the control probably a total of 1 1/2 turns. Going by past experience, once it starts flowing again I'll be able to close the control down and it will work fine for a week or so.

So I thought it worth asking around, which chain oiler is best from the point of view of consistent operation? I just use the bike for commuting, but it's 30 miles each way so in pouring rain I could probably destroy the chain in two days if the oiler stopped working.

Cheers, Tony S

[NTECUK]

Erm what oil are you using.
I've got a 5 year old Scott and it's not temperature fool proof but not so rubbish I'd try something else

[maviczap]

Here's an alternative to both you've tried

http://www.pdoiler.co.uk/

Posted up by another Orger recently

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by NTECUK

Erm what oil are you using.

Cheers. In the Scottoilers I used their oil exclusively. In the Tutoro I've been using various oils, motor oil, Scottoil, chainsaw bar oil, but for the last 9 months or so it's always been engine oil. I'd expect to have to reset the rate if I changed the type of oil.

My Scottoiler experience was it needed tweaking almost all the time, and quite often stopped working and needed to be purged through before it would restart. After 5 years it stopped and nothing would make it start again, so I replaced it like for like and that one stayed working for three years or so until I sold the bike.

I wouldn't say rubbish, but the Scottoilers were sufficiently temperamental that I thought it worth trying something different now there's a choice available. Plus point with the Scott is that you can see it working with the bike idling, which helps get it initially set up.

[NTECUK]

The lube tube add on is very good idea on the scot.
But like you say if it gives up. Rusty chain in one days commute
Shaft or belt drive do look appealing.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by NTECUK

The lube tube add on is very good idea on the scot.
But like you say if it gives up. Rusty chain in one days commute
Shaft or belt drive do look appealing.

You don't want to know what comes up if you Google for "lube tube"! I found it on Scottoil's web site though. Interesting idea, but probably not needed for my use where I'm only doing 300 miles a week and it's no problem topping up every week. In fact if I swapped to Scottoiler I might consider the Mini system if it's easier to find somewhere to mount it.

[NTECUK]

Originally Posted by aesmith

You don't want to know what comes up if you Google for "lube tube"! I found it on Scottoil's web site though. Interesting idea, but probably not needed for my use where I'm only doing 300 miles a week and it's no problem topping up every week. In fact if I swapped to Scottoiler I might consider the Mini system if it's easier to find somewhere to mount it.

Sorry had to Google it.
Lol I don't thinks I can keep a "straight " face after that experience.
Maybe Scott should re name it....

[Bibio]

i dont understand why you feel the need to keep twiddling with the flow on a scottoiler. yes the oil can be temperature dependant but that goes for all the oilers coz they use ermmm oil. the only ones that are not temperature dependant are those pulse spray type.

one of the biggest problems with scottoilers is not cleaning the output nib often enough, these get clogged up so need to be popped out and blown through. another one is that people put the nib directly onto the surface of the sprocket which in turn rubs the nib point the wrong way round so blocks the feed the nib needs to be 2-3mm away from the sprocket, which brings me to the last part about the nibs.. you have to make the cut at 45deg point away from the sprocket or it gets blocked.

the flow rate should not need tweaked all the time, once set it will flow how it flows and that will be outside temperature dependant. a lot of people are scared that oil gets on their back tyre.. well to date i have never ever had a problem with excess oil on my back tyre due to a scottoiler but i do use proper scottoil as its semi water soluble.

i'm ripping my lube tube out as i have had nothing but problems with it. but the scottoiler is staying as i think they are the best. i have had 25k from a chain and sprocket which is good going but since i'm stupid and leave my bike outside the chain gets rusty so i think its time for a new one. apart from the rust the chain and sprocket would more that likely go another 25k no problems.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by Bibio

i dont understand why you feel the need to keep twiddling with the flow on a scottoiler.

It wasn't really a question of "feeling the need", if the flow rate is wrong it needs to be adjusted. To be fair the problem I had more often with the Scottoilers (both) was that they'd stop working altogether rather than varying the rate. The fix was normally just to bleed them through again, but occasionally I had to dismantle the whole thing and flush it through. This was a few years ago, maybe they're better nowadays.

[Bibio]

the only time they stop working is if you run completely dry of oil then you need to prime the system again.. or the feed nib is blocked. i have never ever had to 'flush' a scottoiler.