Servicing her myself

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by chris heron

..addition to my last comment my machine is an 05 so obviously there may be a diffence in the amount our pride and joy's take...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

That's why I added my year Chris just in case.The kitchen measuring jug still applies for oil and coolant changes and makes it sooo.. easy.

Another tip I found on a google search for checking the oil level on flat ground but un-assisted is to sit on the bike upright and take a photo of the oil level glass using your Smartphone

PS
The amount of oil required for my 1999 curvy is embossed on the side of the engine

[Grim-Lock]

Check your right hand casing for the ml amount which I believe is for fresh filter change (less if reusing filter) my L2 pointy is 2300ml for example



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[aj76]

The amount by the sight glass is for a change without filter it's 2700 with.

When i did mine bike was level on paddock stands so I filled slowly to top mark in sight glass, ran engine for a couple of minutes then left to settle whilst doing other jobs and topped up again later.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Grim-Lock]

Originally Posted by aj76

The amount by the sight glass is for a change without filter it's 2700 with.

When i did mine bike was level on paddock stands so I filled slowly to top mark in sight glass, ran engine for a couple of minutes then left to settle whilst doing other jobs and topped up again later.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I knew it was one or the other, thanks for clarifying though.

Just done mine myself so lovely and fresh



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[R1ffR4ff]

Taken from my downloaded Workshop service manual,



However I think my Haynes recommends changing oil around 4,000 miles and I tend to change before that.


HTH

that is why I love this forum,invaluable comments and advice with pictures just to make things a bit more foolproof for idiots like me!

Fellas,thanks massively,and keep contributing,I'm learning more by the hour!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[Red Herring]

Don't forget to generally check over all the other various bits and pieces that make your bike run sweetly.

Get someone to pull the bike up onto the side stand so the front wheel is off the ground (get them to pull on the front right hand side of the tank) so that you can go around to the front of the bike and turn the handlebars freely making sure movement is smooth. Grasp the bottom of the forks and pull them back and forth feeling for any movement in the head bearings. Spin the front wheel listening for any grumbling bearings and then hold it top and bottom from the side and rock it feeling for any movement. Whilst you at it reach up and pull the front brake lever making sure the brakes bite easily, and move importantly release immediately.
Then get the back wheel off the ground (same technique, just get your mate to reach over the seat and pull on the exhaust hanger) and check the wheel bearings and brake in a similar fashion to the front. Obviously whilst your back there check the chain for any tight spots.

Get a torch and have a good look at all the brake pads. They're not that thick to start with but if they are down to the last mm then don't leave it to long before replacing them. They should all also be roughly the same thickness, if one is less than the others you've probably got a sticky caliper so strike early to sort it before it becomes a problem. Have a look at the colour of your brake fluid. If it's dark it's because it's done it's job and absorbed moisture and needs replacing.

I generally go over my bikes with a spray bottle and cloth (I'm not a real fan of aerosols) of something like GT85 or even WD40 putting some down into the ignition and tank keyholes (use the key to open the guard and then wiggle it in and out a bit), all the pivot points around the footpads, side stand, levers, switches, chain adjusters and pretty much anywhere that's supposed to move. It's not just about lubricating them (sprays aren't particularly good at that, you should add a drop of oil afterwards) it's more about cleaning out the joints/surfaces and making sure nothing is seizing.

A lot of people don't like cleaning their bikes but the inspection that goes hand in hand with cleaning is the perfect way to spot something coming loose or wearing before it becomes a problem.

Don't forget the less regular items like the swing arm pivot and more importantly the suspension knuckle will need pulling apart and greasing at some point, especially if you're ridden it right through the winter.

[maviczap]

Take the big yellow electrical connectors in the fairing apart and treat them with some ACF50, plus the green ignition connector, but that's harder to get to under the tank

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by maviczap

Take the big yellow electrical connectors in the fairing apart and treat them with some ACF50, plus the green ignition connector, but that's harder to get to under the tank

+10 and also the when you get time remove the rear fairing and do the same to the Regulator/Rectifier connections and as many electrical connectors and bulb sockets you can get to.ACF50 is the stuff

bloody hell there is something else..coolant,easy or hard,how much and when?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk