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Old 25-08-15, 04:52 PM   #31
Toooldtodie
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

Good question! That would probably do it, but it's a 120/60. I did know that (but checked anyway!).

Got to be the electronics in the instrument cluster surely? Then what?!
Ignore it and have a "low mileage example" when I trade it!!?
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Old 25-08-15, 05:36 PM   #32
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

only other thing i can think of now is a dodgy connector to the clocks or the ECU or a fracture in the loom. apart from that i'm at a loss.
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Old 25-08-15, 07:20 PM   #33
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

Thanks mate.
I've checked connectors (shiny!!) and wiring looks? ok. I have checked voltages, etc so I can only assume the signal is not being calculated by the gizmo in the clocks properly.
It's stuff like this which gives a +1 for buying new. At least you know whats been done to the bike and by which incomp (mainly me) rather than trying to forensically uncover past bodging or botched work...

Do you really stand more chance of winning the lottery if you buy a ticket?

Cheers Bibio your advice and tutelage has given me more confidence to tackle the maintenance on my bike and your chain adjuster plates still look good as new BTW.
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Old 28-08-15, 08:17 AM   #34
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

Having dissected a set of curvy clocks, and I guess the pointy ones can't be too dissimilar, it might be worth a quick check for any loose components or duff solder joints in the clocks if you are vaguely handy with a soldering iron? The circuitry for the speedo is fairly simple (basically it has a few simple components then feeds into the main microprocessor) so there isn't much to go wrong.
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Old 28-08-15, 08:31 AM   #35
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

How easy is the dissection?

I'll start googling now.
Whatever is wrong it's consistent. It's very precisely inaccurate!

Thanks for the steer.
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Old 28-08-15, 08:50 AM   #36
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Default Re: Speedo reading again, only different

The curvy ones has a few screws on the back once removed. I don't know on the pointy ones.

Easiest thing to do once inside is to find the pin on the connector then follow the trace on the circuit board. At this point we're pretty much clutching at straws as to whether this is the problem but it is worth a shot. Any component is likely to be quite small, so you'll need a soldering iron with a fine tip.
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