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03-01-11, 07:42 PM | #1 |
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intermitant speedo fault
Yesterday i seem to have developed a intermitant speedo fault.
one minute it will work fine then all of a sudden just drops to zero then wont work for a few miles then comes back to life again. has anyone suffered a similar issue ? cheers Ben |
03-01-11, 10:27 PM | #2 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
The speedo drives are known to be easily broken if mishandled or incorrectly fitted - has the front wheel recently been removed?
If no, then check the wire from the drive to the clock first and if no damage apparent then it may still be worth removing the front wheel to check the drive. But as the fault is intermittent I'd first suspect a damaged cable or poor connections.
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04-01-11, 07:28 PM | #3 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
no the front wheel hasnt been out at all, it just stopped suddenly i was thinking it maybe a damaged wire but thought that it would stop completely.
i shall be pulling all of the plastcis off then to get checking. |
05-01-11, 05:22 PM | #4 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
Same happened to me a few years ago, I'll try to find the thread...
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05-01-11, 05:24 PM | #5 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...ghlight=speedo
Hope that helps! |
07-01-11, 09:25 PM | #6 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
awesome dude cheers, after having a quick look over just the outer cabling i can see a couple of what appear to be pinch marks where the wire has been trapped in the past.
Think i may cut out the whole middle section an re wire it myself after checking its not just the rotor |
04-05-20, 07:51 PM | #7 |
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Re: intermitant speedo fault
Hi Ben,
does the tacho go to zero at the same time as the speedo, and the fuel light come on as the instruments re-awaken? My 2000 S has been doing the same with increasing frequency over the last year. Most of the warning lights continue to work, except the fuel light and possibly over-heat. This shows that "switch-live" (orange-green wire) still working, so I concentrated on permanent live to the dashboard (red wire). Cleaned contacts in the connector block left of the headlamp unit and going into the instruments without success. Latest trial is to re-solder some of the power connections in the instrument cluster. This now seems much more stable on a bench-test (tapping the instrument cluster it does not drop-out any more) but has yet to be tried on the road. I will report again after a road test, and try to include photos of which connections to solder. |
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