Underfloor heating, any plumbers?

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Rich

The size of your boiler is approx the same size as ones we fit to the Charnwood LA20i which gives out 2.3KW so at a rough guess i'd say about 2KW at best for yours. It seems an odd way of mounting the boiler above the flames as it has a greater chance of burning through and warping up there.

I thought the same when I first saw it, this is why we removed it.
Then again, it's not going to warp or burn if full of water.

[Rich]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I understand, cheers.

Does the cylinder perform any function other than as an energy store?

You would get away without it if you just wanted to run radiators off of it, just make sure you have a decent size header tank to take the expansion and excess heat that it'll kick out.

Oh and i've just realised you've got a combi, you'd have to run seperate HW supplys to the sinks/basins to get it to work so knock that idea on the head. It's do able though and a good use of the heat, but alot of messing about. D'oh

[punyXpress]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I thought the same when I first saw it, this is why we removed it.
Then again, it's not going to warp or burn if full of water.

Only if the water's circulating.
If not, BOOM !
Re price of coal:
Has Missyc jibbed at going down the pit again?

[Rich]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I thought the same when I first saw it, this is why we removed it.
Then again, it's not going to warp or burn if full of water.

I've seen 1/4" steel boilers split from heavy use, mainly down to crap in the system preventing a good flow but it is possible.

Alot of the newer solid fuel boilers have thermostats controling the airflow to the fire therefore controling the fire bed preventing it getting too hot and burning too much fuel. Thats the only problem I can see with yours is its control. If you don't put enough rads on taking heat away from the boiler the system could just end up like one big kettle no good to anyone and a potential danger.

[yorkie_chris]

I would fit a blow-off valve as matter of course anyway if we do use it. The slight problem being I don't know this boiler has been pressure tested so don't know what to set a blowoff valve at!

Pressure buildup on the open system idea wouldn't be too much of an issue as any steam could bubble out of the expansion tank.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I would fit a blow-off valve as matter of course anyway if we do use it. The slight problem being I don't know this boiler has been pressure tested so don't know what to set a blowoff valve at!

Pressure buildup on the open system idea wouldn't be too much of an issue as any steam could bubble out of the expansion tank.

just don't use a plastic tank, lol.

[yorkie_chris]

You don't see many of those in the scrapyard

[skeetly]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I would fit a blow-off valve as matter of course anyway if we do use it. The slight problem being I don't know this boiler has been pressure tested so don't know what to set a blowoff valve at!

Pressure buildup on the open system idea wouldn't be too much of an issue as any steam could bubble out of the expansion tank.

Er. You really really dont want it as a pressurised system.
Open has been fine for a long time for this sort of thing
If you going to refit the tank just make sure that you have the outlet at the top and the inlet at the bottom. That way the hot water will convect away to be replaced by the cold. You need a rad big enough to be a heat sink but if the tanks is 2kw then choosing a rad size is not hard from the manufacturers specs. if the rad is below the tank you need a pump to drag the hot down into it.
I bet you will have spent not far off the cost of a new stove by the time you're finished though..................

[yorkie_chris]

There was never the intention to pressurise it

There's no way to fit the boiler so convection will circulate water, it fits horizontally over the top of the fire so inlet and outflow are level.


If we were to put flexible tubing under the wooden floor, how much heat does that type of tubing dissipate per length?

[skeetly]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

There was never the intention to pressurise it

There's no way to fit the boiler so convection will circulate water, it fits horizontally over the top of the fire so inlet and outflow are level.

You wont need a blow off valve but you will need a pump.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

If we were to put flexible tubing under the wooden floor, how much heat does that type of tubing dissipate per length?

No idea. Phone up a a manufacturers tech help line?
Hepworth, speedfit (john guest).