rounded and corroded airbox screw

[Surfjayce]

i have a badly corroded screw on the SK5's airbox just one out of the 7 keeping me from opening the airbox, any suggestions on how to remove it?

im a bit worried about drilling it out as its into plastic, and worried the heat generated will melt something, doesnt help that there is the plastic retaining sections keeping the screw in place.

Originally Posted by Surfjayce

i have a badly corroded screw on the SK5's airbox just one out of the 7 keeping me from opening the airbox, any suggestions on how to remove it?



im a bit worried about drilling it out as its into plastic, and worried the heat generated will melt something, doesnt help that there is the plastic retaining sections keeping the screw in place.

I think those are crosshead screws - I’m guessing the internal slots are rounded off so you can’t get any purchase with a screwdriver. If it is one of the screws at the front, which are fairly accessible, then I’d perhaps try an impact driver. The screws don’t need to be very tight (I think they are either direct into the plastic or into a metal sleeve), and so wouldn’t need to be moved far before they become loose. If it is the one in the middle at the back then that would be a bit more difficult due to the gas tank hinge.

If an impact driver doesn’t work then you could probably use a narrow chisel to cut a slot across the head of the screw, deep enough to get some purchase with a flat screwdriver.

If neither of those work I think you could drill the head of the screw off. Using a largish bit and the plastic shaft as a guide, go slowly and just remove the head,which will allow you to lift the top of the air box off revealing the remains of the screw’s shaft - which you could remove with mole grips.

I think you are right about not using heat - it would just melt the screw into the surrounding plastic (also the gas tank is pretty close by).

If it is the rearmost screw, the one by the gas tank hinge, then you might end up taking the tank off (I think there is just one bolt that forms the hinge and some connections) to get access.

Rounded off or broken fixings are perhaps the biggest problem with an older bike, not helped by Suzuki making many of the bolts and screws from some very old Camembert cheese. Give the screw a spray with some penetrating oil the night before you try the above.

Good fortune,

Alan


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[Craig380]

Othen's advice to try & cut a slot into the screw for a normal screwdriver is best I think. You can trim away those plastic bits that stick up around the screw, they just stop the screw getting lost when the airbox lid is removed.

From memory the screws just go straight into the airbox bottom's plastic.

[R1ffR4ff]

See other replies soak with rust release and if there's anything left of the slot use a rubber band on top of them and then press real hard with your screwdriver forcing the Rubber into the slots. Preferably a proper JIS(Japanese Industry Standard) Screwdriver.The one that comes with the factory toolkit can work if it's not been abused.

[Surfjayce]

crosshead is completey rounded after me butchering it a lil (ooopsie) iv taken the whole airbox off the bike anyway as i needed it off to get to the green ignition plug, i guess clipping the plastic tab and trying to cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver seems like the simplest option, but yeah as im systematically working on bits im finding more and more pain in the ass screws and bolts, already had to drill out the front fender bolts on the forks.

But i cant complain, this is all my own doing, the bike has been stood for over a year and half of that was without a cover, so surface rust (and slightly more than surface), leaves, spider nests are plaguing the bike lol

Originally Posted by Surfjayce

crosshead is completey rounded after me butchering it a lil (ooopsie) iv taken the whole airbox off the bike anyway as i needed it off to get to the green ignition plug, i guess clipping the plastic tab and trying to cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver seems like the simplest option, but yeah as im systematically working on bits im finding more and more pain in the ass screws and bolts, already had to drill out the front fender bolts on the forks.

But i cant complain, this is all my own doing, the bike has been stood for over a year and half of that was without a cover, so surface rust (and slightly more than surface), leaves, spider nests are plaguing the bike lol

Nuts, bolts, screws and studs are the biggest problem with teenage bikes - particularly when lots of steel bits connect lots of aluminium bits (SV). On my K6 I always do a risk assessment before starting jobs that are not really essential -a single rounded off bolt head or broken stud might make it beyond economic repair (I only paid £600 for the bike).

As you have the air box off the bike already this should be a pretty easy job, either with an impact driver (if you have one - with a 1/4” socket extension) or with a narrow chisel to cut a slot. The screw shouldn’t be too tight and once you have it out you can replace all the screws with some new bolts (I think ordinary hexagonal heads would be best, something a socket will fit on).

Good fortune - I don’t think that job will take you too long.

Alan


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[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Surfjayce

crosshead is completey rounded after me butchering it a lil (ooopsie) iv taken the whole airbox off the bike anyway as i needed it off to get to the green ignition plug, i guess clipping the plastic tab and trying to cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver seems like the simplest option, but yeah as im systematically working on bits im finding more and more pain in the ass screws and bolts, already had to drill out the front fender bolts on the forks.

But i cant complain, this is all my own doing, the bike has been stood for over a year and half of that was without a cover, so surface rust (and slightly more than surface), leaves, spider nests are plaguing the bike lol

Invest in some ACF50,

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

I not only use it for maintenance on all fasteners/Electrical connections/Plastics and Rad pipes but on reconstruction.Virtually eliminates any future corrosion related problems.

Most decent local Motorcycle shops sell it now or get it on-line,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...acf50&_sacat=0


A little goes a long way doesn't work out expensive

[Surfjayce]

its one of the first things i did invest in, a large refill bottle and a refillable spray bottle so yeah everything thats come off so far with be either treated or replaced and treated

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Surfjayce

its one of the first things i did invest in, a large refill bottle and a refillable spray bottle so yeah everything thats come off so far with be either treated or replaced and treated

Also ever since I got my SV I got into the habit of deliberately using the rear brake to aid in slow speed Traffic maneuvers.This is to prevent the rear brake system seizing over time through lack of use which I've seen posted on quite a few modern Motorcycle forums.
I never had this problem with my old Hondas as you had to use 60/40 Front to Rear ratio most of the time as the brakes aren't as good as those on an SV/Modern bike.

HTH

Originally Posted by Surfjayce

crosshead is completey rounded after me butchering it a lil (ooopsie) iv taken the whole airbox off the bike anyway as i needed it off to get to the green ignition plug, i guess clipping the plastic tab and trying to cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver seems like the simplest option, but yeah as im systematically working on bits im finding more and more pain in the ass screws and bolts, already had to drill out the front fender bolts on the forks.

But i cant complain, this is all my own doing, the bike has been stood for over a year and half of that was without a cover, so surface rust (and slightly more than surface), leaves, spider nests are plaguing the bike lol

Did you get the screw out of the air box?


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