Project: Garage Find

[squirrel_hunter]

Will save you some of hundreds of pictures I'm taking to assist on reassembly but here are some highlights as it were:

To take the engine out which is the next target it is time to remove anything that connects to the engine. And in this case its the power valve pulleys first on the list. The cables were seized but replacements are to be sourced. Under the cover the seal looks good but like the rest of the bike there is a bit of dirt and rust in there.



However not all is bad under the covers as this is a very clean looking oil pump.



Drained the gear box oil which actually looked overfilled in the sight glass. Maybe this was intentional before it was parked up. Then it was draining the coolant. The coolant looked ok actually, so I think the water pump seals are still intact or at least were when the engine was last used. However the expansion tank was empty bar some sludge. Taking the radiator off was fairly straight forward. It looks in good condition however so far no joy in removing the guard. Might look at getting it cleaned up or painted before it goes back on, so I'm open to suggestions on the approach here?



Then the carbs. Took the throttle cable off of the throttle tube and traced it back to a junction box that feeds the two carbs, the power valve, and the oil pump. Taking the the cables off of the power valve servo looked like it was going to be a bit of a pain so I just removed the servo. Well it needs to come off anyway. And then it was taking the carbs off.



They don't look to bad a first but then you get to have a closer look at them.



Hopefully these will clean up. But I'm not disassembling them any further at the moment. I think the plan is to take the engine out next then strip the frame down. Get that painted and reassembled before working on the engine and the carbs before doing the final assembly with the fairings. Well thats the plan anyway...

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

The pipes are rubber mounted as the motor is on fairly sloppy rubber mounts and the exhausts move a surprising amount, sloppy is good here - too securely fitted and the pipes can crack.

Sid's right - you don't fit LC/PV exhausts, you hang them.

[_Stretchie_]

If only someone would pull his finger out and sort out that blast cabinet

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

Anyways, this bunch of petrol heads might be able to help http://www.ardracing.com/tzr.html#Lb6MbdPieUii (the owner is a renound stroker)

Fnaaarrrrr

oohhh sub'd

[squirrel_hunter]

So to take the engine out...

Actually quite a simple operation. The engine is held to the frame by a rear mounting bolt and an engine cradle frame. So after locating the bolts many of which were covered by grease/ oil/ dirt/ grime I loosened them all off before removing the cradle.



With the cradle off I supported the engine with a jack before removing the rear bolt balancing the engine against the frame and jack. And yes the clutch cover needs replacing.



After that it was just a simple case of lifting the engine onto the bench. The best part was the weight, compared to an SV lump this TZR weighs next to nothing I could practically juggle with it.



However there is a slight issue. The generator cover looks warped as I'm fairly sure I shouldn't be able to see the alternator.

[yorkie_chris]

I do like the "medium" grade of hammer on show in those pics, if you were working on my XJ of similar vintage you would need at least "coarse" maybe even "extra coarse"

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I do like the "medium" grade of hammer on show in those pics, if you were working on my XJ of similar vintage you would need at least "coarse" maybe even "extra coarse"

or the...

Ah f*ck it!!!

[Sid Squid]

No, you shouldn't be able to the see the rotor. That said it may not be that tragic, there are seals on both ends of the crank, ( and in the middle too - two stroke - primary compression), so the rotor runs dry.
There should be a gasket there which may not be fitted/fitted properly or perhaps damaged/incomplete, (can't see clearly in pic), even if the cover is a bit wonky you should be able to lap it enough to make it hold a nice fat gasket - no oil in there to leak out means it doesn't need to clamp up that well to be OK.

[squirrel_hunter]

I thought the rotor would run dry, but I wouldn't want anything to get in there and I hope rust hasn't found a home on it over the years. Checked the parts diagram and there isn't actually a gasket for it. However I think I bought a replacement for it as I remember it didn't look that smart, though I've just rummaged through the box of spares I have and can't find it at the moment...

[Ruffy]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Ruffy, if you do find anything let me know as it might be on the list.

PM sent. Sadly not as many leftovers as I thought I had.