error code c-42

Originally Posted by pencil shavings

thanks for than Baph, unfortunatly I dont really understand much of it or know where to start!
Also dont have a multi meter so I cant really do much of that diognosis!
what do u sujest I do?

OK, first thing, nip to Maplin & buy a cheap DMM. Don't spend more than £10, you won't need anything more expensive than that. Whilst you're there, if you don't have WD40, pick up some switch cleaner (aerosol spray type).

Seats off, tank up. Top of the airbox off & air filter out.

From this moment on, don't drop anything down the butterflies that you can see inside the airbox. Please. Stuff a rag or something over them (dry rag, no fluff).

Stand at the throttle side of the bike, with a long phillips screwdriver. There's 2 clips holding the airbox on to the air intakes, unscrew these & take the airbox off completely (you don't need to disconnect the sensors/wires from the bottom of the airbox - I find it helps get more space, but you also need to remember where everything goes).

Once that's off, if you look behind the headstock (in front of where the airbox was), you'll see 3-4 connectors.

Take each connector apart, and give a good dosage of WD40/switch cleaner. Take the rags off & see if it'll fire. If it does, consider yourself lucky. Put the bike back together & stop reading here.

One of those connectors is Black/Red, Orange, Orange/Red, Brown wires (engine side of the connector, not the ignition side). Ignition on, check for voltage between the Orange and Black/Red wires. You should have 12v minimum here. If not, find the Orange wire in the fuse box, take that fuse out. Do you have 12v here?

Assuming you do get 12v to the ignition connector, check the other side of it for continuity (Red + Orange wires). If you don't have continuity, then either the wires to the ignition or the ignition itself needs replacing.

If all that's OK, the front plug gets spark first. So that coil is powered first. Change the coil/HT lead/plug cap from the rear cylinder to the front, then try from the start.

thanks a million baph

will do the clean and check first, then go to maplin if it dosent work (bike is only mode of transport which makes life hard!!)

ok, i had a play.

took off the air box and had a fiddle. It was so hard to get the connectors open, could only get to one. so i checked that one, it was fine. all the others were clean and intact from the outside, the whole area is clean, tidy and well protected by tape too.

so i turned it on anyway, started first time no probs, abs nothing wrong. ok...

turned it off, back on, the fule pumps didnt prime again

off and on again and it worked.

i have no idea what to do next, any ideas?

I also found a little LED light that flashes from the alarm that has corroded off, but i dont think this could be the problem, or it wouldnt have started now (started it about 3 times)

cheers

[flymo]

can the alarm be easily disconnected? is it as simple as pulling the plug from the loom?

If so might be worth doing just that and testing for reliability.

Originally Posted by flymo

can the alarm be easily disconnected? is it as simple as pulling the plug from the loom?

If so might be worth doing just that and testing for reliability.

nope, its locked in a million ways, even taking off the seat or disconnecting the battery triggers it.

Originally Posted by pencil shavings

so i turned it on anyway, started first time no probs, abs nothing wrong. ok...

turned it off, back on, the fule pumps didnt prime again

off and on again and it worked.

i have no idea what to do next, any ideas?

With the airbox off, turn the ignition on, and give the wires around the back of the headstock a wiggle. See if you can make the fuel rail prime/cut/prime etc.

I reckon it's a dodgy connection you've got there. You'll have fun finding that.

[flymo]

Yeah I agree Baph. I did notice on my bike that some of those connectors looked clean from the outside but had badly corroded connections inside them.

Hard to get to I know but worth checking. Water tends to run down the plastic tubes that hold the wires.

Originally Posted by Baph

With the airbox off, turn the ignition on, and give the wires around the back of the headstock a wiggle. See if you can make the fuel rail prime/cut/prime etc.

I reckon it's a dodgy connection you've got there. You'll have fun finding that.

ok, had another play, now i cant get it to not work!! lol

but ive found somthing out to do with the noises. when it doesnt work, there is still a small noise, which is this thing circled moving..



there is a bigger whiring noise which is what sometimes dosent work. when this noise dosent work is when the error comes. if it does work, the bike starts no problem at all.

Originally Posted by flymo

Yeah I agree Baph. I did notice on my bike that some of those connectors looked clean from the outside but had badly corroded connections inside them.

Hard to get to I know but worth checking. Water tends to run down the plastic tubes that hold the wires.

the one that i did manage to get to was pefect, looked new, not even the slightest sign of corrosion. but I know that dosent meen another cant be corroded!

Originally Posted by pencil shavings

ok, had another play, now i cant get it to not work!! lol

but ive found somthing out to do with the noises. when it doesnt work, there is still a small noise, which is this thing circled moving..

... snip...

there is a bigger whiring noise which is what sometimes dosent work. when this noise dosent work is when the error comes. if it does work, the bike starts no problem at all.

The pictured (and circled) part is the servo actuator for the primary butterfly. You'll probably notice that when this moves, the butterfly opens too (remember what I said about not dropping anything in there?).

The whirring noise is the fuel pump.

Have you dismantled the RH switch gear, check the connections on the kill switch (I'm assuming you've tripple checked the Kill Switch isn't disabling the engine. )

I'm in the office at the moment, but when I'm home, I'll look at the wiring diagram to see where the ignition system connects to the ECU so you can probe there with the DMM (but don't expect much to work with the ECU unplugged).