Rear Carburettor Choke Plunger Screw - SV650.org

fizzwheel · 08-04-06, 05:11 PM

My choke is stuck on I've tried lubbing the cable from the handlebar end. But no use. So I decided that I would try and have a go at it myself. Read in the haynes manual what to do to take the choke cable out. Doesnt seem to difficult I think to myself.

Can I get the screw undone that holds the choke plunger what not in the rear carb. Not on your nellie its stuck tight.

I've tried tapping it. Trying to do it up and then to undo it as this has worked before. Nope it wont budge.

Now I've gone and rounded off the head on it. So I'm thinking that I'll cut a slot in the screw head so I can get a nice big flat blade screwdriver onto it and then undo it that way.

Any advice tips or suggestions that might help me get it undone ?

I'm also thinking that once I've got it out I'm going to take the cable off and fit a new one. I have pulled off the little rubber gromit that seals the cable where it enters the carb and I can see that the cable inner is really rusty so I'm guessing its just easier to take the cable off and fit a new one rather than mucking about with this one. Also is the choke plunger assembly screw on the front carb going to be as much as a git to get out as this one seems to be.

Cheers

Fizz

northwind · 08-04-06, 05:59 PM

I had to use an impact driver on one of mine... Maplins sell stuff called thread doctor, which is basically a slightly sticky abrasive you cna put in screw heads that stops the driver from slipping out. Too late for you though I think.

Mole grips? ISTR them being good mole grip targets.

NedSVS · 08-04-06, 06:06 PM

Use a flat bladed screwdriver (preferably an old one or one that you have hit before and not broken) and a hammer and use it like a punch. First create a dint with the blade at 90deg to the screw head with a few firm taps. Then, once you have a reasonable sized dint, change the angle of the blade so you are tapping it in a direction that will undo it. If the blade chisels off a bit of the screw head, make a new dint and try again. This has worked many times for me in the past; just take a little care. As soon as you get it out replace it with an allen screw (m5 x 12 or 15mm I think).

You'll probably find the rear section of the cable is rusted up (oiling from the handlebar end doesn't get past the splitter), infact mine rusted right through. I managed to repair it with a piece of push bike cable (gear change cable I think, brake cable was too thick), soldering the ends of the original cable onto the new piece of cable with an electrical soldering iron (has been good for about a year now).

Hope this helps.

08-04-06, 06:32 PM

You get my sympathy Fizz.

I am doing the exact same thing right now! Might I suggest you put about £5 in the swear-box straight off.

Those screws are a right bugger to get out. I had to use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot on top, then did as Ned suggests and hit it in such a way you're tapping anti-clockwise with a 45degree angle downwards too. Then the brass bit is totally corroded into the alloy - so get some pliers with good grips and rotate that too. If you're lucky all the furry alloy crap won't fall inside like it did on mine.

New cables is the best bet. I don't think the brass ferrule or the plunger bit inside will come with my cables (arrive Wed. hopefully), but they should clean up ok.

Oh yeah, the front is worse!

08-04-06, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by northwind

I had to use an impact driver on one of mine...

As did I. You just need to be careful with it and make sure the carbs are well placed and secure so as to make sure you do not damage anything else in the process.

08-04-06, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haggis

Oh yeah, the front is worse!

Your not wrong there.

09-04-06, 08:07 AM

Yup I had this problem last year, rounded the screw right off. I used a hand drill to drill a hole into the screw, then got the screwdriver and knock it in with a hammer a couple of times and then used brute force to twist it. Keep drilling a bit further and bit bigger bore and you'll eventually get the sucka.

Depending on space you could always get one of those counter sunk screws, and then use a big old wrench to screw it out. Again that work on siezed brake disc bolts

I might e-mail Suzuki with an idea of copa slipping all their friggin bolts

Good luck Fizz

empty · 09-04-06, 12:40 PM

Mole grips worked for the rear on mine, front I ended up drilling the head off, the stud came out easily but the head had seized to the plate.

MT

09-04-06, 07:51 PM

This could go back to my previous post about my carbs LOL I too needed to get that bolt out, ended up drilling and using a bolt extractor on it, so did the same on the whole lot, got a set of stainless steel replacements on the way

Also my choke plunger cable is quite rusty too. Is it a good idea to clean it well and re-use or just replace? If replace does anyone know how much a new set of cables is?

08-04-06, 05:11 PM	#1
fizzwheel Super Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Somerset Posts: 3,614	Rear Carburettor Choke Plunger Screw My choke is stuck on I've tried lubbing the cable from the handlebar end. But no use. So I decided that I would try and have a go at it myself. Read in the haynes manual what to do to take the choke cable out. Doesnt seem to difficult I think to myself. Can I get the screw undone that holds the choke plunger what not in the rear carb. Not on your nellie its stuck tight. I've tried tapping it. Trying to do it up and then to undo it as this has worked before. Nope it wont budge. Now I've gone and rounded off the head on it. So I'm thinking that I'll cut a slot in the screw head so I can get a nice big flat blade screwdriver onto it and then undo it that way. Any advice tips or suggestions that might help me get it undone ? I'm also thinking that once I've got it out I'm going to take the cable off and fit a new one. I have pulled off the little rubber gromit that seals the cable where it enters the carb and I can see that the cable inner is really rusty so I'm guessing its just easier to take the cable off and fit a new one rather than mucking about with this one. Also is the choke plunger assembly screw on the front carb going to be as much as a git to get out as this one seems to be. Cheers Fizz __________________ Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition

08-04-06, 05:59 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	I had to use an impact driver on one of mine... Maplins sell stuff called thread doctor, which is basically a slightly sticky abrasive you cna put in screw heads that stops the driver from slipping out. Too late for you though I think. Mole grips? ISTR them being good mole grip targets. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

09-04-06, 12:40 PM	#8
empty Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: at work mostly Posts: 286	Mole grips worked for the rear on mine, front I ended up drilling the head off, the stud came out easily but the head had seized to the plate. MT __________________ Mark T Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

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08-04-06, 06:06 PM	#3
NedSVS Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 567	Use a flat bladed screwdriver (preferably an old one or one that you have hit before and not broken) and a hammer and use it like a punch. First create a dint with the blade at 90deg to the screw head with a few firm taps. Then, once you have a reasonable sized dint, change the angle of the blade so you are tapping it in a direction that will undo it. If the blade chisels off a bit of the screw head, make a new dint and try again. This has worked many times for me in the past; just take a little care. As soon as you get it out replace it with an allen screw (m5 x 12 or 15mm I think). You'll probably find the rear section of the cable is rusted up (oiling from the handlebar end doesn't get past the splitter), infact mine rusted right through. I managed to repair it with a piece of push bike cable (gear change cable I think, brake cable was too thick), soldering the ends of the original cable onto the new piece of cable with an electrical soldering iron (has been good for about a year now). Hope this helps.

08-04-06, 06:32 PM	#4
haggis Guest Posts: n/a	You get my sympathy Fizz. I am doing the exact same thing right now! Might I suggest you put about £5 in the swear-box straight off. Those screws are a right bugger to get out. I had to use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot on top, then did as Ned suggests and hit it in such a way you're tapping anti-clockwise with a 45degree angle downwards too. Then the brass bit is totally corroded into the alloy - so get some pliers with good grips and rotate that too. If you're lucky all the furry alloy crap won't fall inside like it did on mine. New cables is the best bet. I don't think the brass ferrule or the plunger bit inside will come with my cables (arrive Wed. hopefully), but they should clean up ok. Oh yeah, the front is worse!

09-04-06, 08:07 AM	#7
falc Guest Posts: n/a	Yup I had this problem last year, rounded the screw right off. I used a hand drill to drill a hole into the screw, then got the screwdriver and knock it in with a hammer a couple of times and then used brute force to twist it. Keep drilling a bit further and bit bigger bore and you'll eventually get the sucka. Depending on space you could always get one of those counter sunk screws, and then use a big old wrench to screw it out. Again that work on siezed brake disc bolts I might e-mail Suzuki with an idea of copa slipping all their friggin bolts Good luck Fizz

09-04-06, 07:51 PM	#9
sprocket Guest Posts: n/a	This could go back to my previous post about my carbs LOL I too needed to get that bolt out, ended up drilling and using a bolt extractor on it, so did the same on the whole lot, got a set of stainless steel replacements on the way Also my choke plunger cable is quite rusty too. Is it a good idea to clean it well and re-use or just replace? If replace does anyone know how much a new set of cables is?