Pointy rear engine bolt

[Stilo]

Yes tried that.
I am soaking it everyday in release fluid & will have another go this coming weekend.
As per previous does anybody know if the bolt screws into the frame or just slides through?
Thanks

Originally Posted by Bibio

have you supported the weight of the engine using a jack?

[Stilo]

Update!!!
What I didn't mention earlier is that the bike was stripped, it was just the engine, swing arm & frame in one lump.
The engine is in need of repair, the guy who sold it to me said it was "knocking". The frame is a K7 that is in good condition and is HPI clear, I have a complete K5 that is a Cat C, I bought the frame with the intention of swapping everything over. The engine is of no use to me, I have it for sale on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2632384140...84.m1555.l2649
I will also post it on the for sale section of the forum

I thought that the bolt was corroded into the frame but it isn't it is corroded into the engine casing. I removed the engine by cutting off the bolt head on the left hand side which allowed me to then remove the spacer and give space between the engine and the frame on that side. I then drifted the bolt from the right hand side, it didn't move the bolt out of the engine but what it did do was move the engine across the frame towards the left hand side. This then gave me space to saw off the bolt just proud of the engine casing. Because of the restricted access I had to use a junior hacksaw blade (I broke 3 ). I then cut the bolt on the other side again just proud of the engine which allowed me to drop the engine out of the frame.
I would guess that somebody with the right equipment and knowledge would be able to drill out the bolt or if the bottom end is split to get at the crank the bolt could be removed then?

Thanks for everybody's advice and hopefully this might help somebody else in the future

[SV650rules]

Electrolytic corrosion between steel bolt and aluminium, can be made worse by zinc coating on bolt. Best coating is nickel (like spark plug threads) but not likely to find that on big bolts. If salt water gets into space between ally and steel it makes corrosion worse.

Stainless bolts better for corrosion, but stainless steel is low carbon and not high tensile enough for load bearing fasteners.

[Craig380]

Ooof, what a ballache. When Classic Motorcycle Mechanics used to do proper engine strips etc, those sort of frozen mounting bolts were a common problem, and usually had to be dealt with the way you did - hacksaw the b*ggers to get the engine out, and then have the stuck bits of bolt spark-eroded away.

Same with the long cylinder studs that go from the cases to the cylinder head - often the cylinder barrels would corrode onto the studs.

[Stilo]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

Electrolytic corrosion between steel bolt and aluminium, can be made worse by zinc coating on bolt. Best coating is nickel (like spark plug threads) but not likely to find that on big bolts. If salt water gets into space between ally and steel it makes corrosion worse.

Stainless bolts better for corrosion, but stainless steel is low carbon and not high tensile enough for load bearing fasteners.

I dont know if it has been exposed to salt water but it spent last winter in a shed,perhaps the moist air was to blame?

[Stilo]

Same with the long cylinder studs that go from the cases to the cylinder head - often the cylinder barrels would corrode onto the studs.[/QUOTE]

My Ducati 900SS had 1 stud that was really corroded, it took me weeks of every night trying to drift the barrel off of the stud using a block of wood and a hammer then applying easing oil. It came off in the end but there are stories of them never coming off at all & there is a video out there of a tractor not being able to pull a barrel off.

[Stilo]

I took the engine out of the 2nd frame at the weekend, no problems all of the bolts came out ok. What I did notice was that there were signs of corrosion on the ends of the bolts where they sat in the frame but none on the parts iof the bolt that were in contact with the engine casings. They all looked very dry, I assume that when fitted at the factory they dont use any lubrication ?
Hopefully when the engine is refitted I wont have to take it out again but I will use copperslip on the bolts just in case.
To answer my own previous question "does anybody know if the bolt screws into the frame or just slides through?" and hopefullY it will help somebody else in the future. The rear bottom bolt, the last 1 to take out, slides through the frame, it is threaded but this is for a retaining nut on the outside of the frame. IT DOES NOT THREAD INTO THE FRAME