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Old 13-03-17, 11:46 PM   #81
squirrel_hunter
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

A fair question.

There is no bet, but I do have a rough date that I'm targeting to complete. However more recently things haven't progressed as quickly as I would have hoped. This is due to either other commitments or difficulties encountered. Leaving the former and going with the latter, there are two main issues; stripping, and feed and speed.

Starting with stripping first. I want to paint the wheels and I'm going to do them myself. But to do it properly first I need to remove the old paint, this has proven to be harder than I anticipated. However this has now been successful.

The next is feed and speed. Basically getting a good finish on the parts I'm making. Most of it is down to experience, I'm teaching myself how to drive this lathe and am learning on the job so things won't go right first time. I'm actually on my 5th attempt now on one part, but the good news is that there is improvement with every iteration.

A proper update will follow once I've made some better progress but be warned that might be a couple of weeks. However while you wait for that I shall leave you with a bit of a teaser... The body work has arrived, and I've came up with an idea that to implement will require a lot of thinking and be even more unique.
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Old 28-03-17, 10:47 PM   #82
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

So its been a little while since my last update but things have been happening in the background and I've been spending a lot of time on the lathe. And so its the lathe that makes an appearance for this fork update. My first attempt at the spring seat though functional was not pretty, I couldn't get that smooth finish that you normally see on machined parts and so was not happy. It took me 5 attempts to get it where I was happy and involved playing with the machine more, eventually I found the right speed 470rpm and the right setting on the auto feed (setting 3, 1/8th).



And so that is the finished spring seat. If you were wondering the seat is (and please remember these are +-0.5mm) 16mm diameter and 166mm from the base to the seat, the spring locator is a further 5.5mm on top and 9mm in diameter. In the picture above my spring seat is the top one.

The seat was then put into the right hand fork and oil added. I have filled both forks with 10wt oil and have a 146mm air gap measured with a compressed fork springless. So next is to fit the springs. I'm using the ones from the spare forks and as can be seen they are both the same length. The spring is installed with the smaller taper at the top so the larger end fits over the locator, both springs are installed in this orientation.



The next problem I had with the forks was the upper spring seat. This spacer that acts as preload was not in the spare set of forks and of course there was only one in the bike originally and Yamaha no longer supply them. My original idea was to make my own as I have a lathe now fairly simply its a M20x1.0mm thread so a die of the right size is easy to buy. The real problem is making the 8mm hex hole or to use the technical term, to broach a 8mm hex. If you want to blow your mind search youtube for a video on drilling a square hole, its the same principle for the hex, so all I need is a broaching tool. I did a little research and found a good tool at $1600, a little bit pricey for making one part. You can use a manual broach (again check it out on youtube) basically its a harderned tool that you press through the hole to cut the hex, again these are $500. You can make your own but I wasn't confident on this.



Thankfully eventually via the medium of eBay a secondhand original spring seat turned up. Unfortunately I've forgotten username from the YSR forum of the chap that supplied it to me, but if you're reading this thanks very much and thanks for the other part...



Upper spring seat in and fork caps on they are good to go. Once they go in the frame I can add the dust seals and the handlebars allowing me to tighten them up properly.

The next update will involve some more parts that I have made.
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Old 02-04-17, 10:58 PM   #83
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Lets turn our attention to the rear brake. Its a drum rear, I did consider a disc brake rear conversion using TZM wheels, but for reasons that will become apparent later I decided to stick with the drum.



I don't have a picture of the original drum back plate from the bike off of the machine, so this is a spare I have. A fairly simple design and I suspect is used on other models with a spacer to allow the wheel to align.



The trouble is I don't like the idea of trying to line a loose spacer up with the wheel, drum back plate, and other spacer against the swingarm while trying to get an axle through. So I had an idea and took the back plate and spacer to Rolling Art to weld on. As the back plate is aluminium and they needed to take it elsewhere to weld, the trouble is the spacer is steel.



Anyway due to a little confusion and scheduling I had time to make an ally replacement and took it up to Rolling Art for them to weld on.



The problem was they had already made me a replacement ally one and had it welded on. To be fair theirs was better than mine as they have an angle in there like the original and I just have a shoulder, however I now know how to make that.

And if you were wondering the steel spacer weighs 30g my ally one weighs 10g. I've also painted the back plate in Halfords aluminium enamel high temperature spray paint, 4 coats then cooked at 250o for an hour. But this gave me a rough dusty finish so a quick rub over with a green scourer that you use in the kitchen smoothed it off nicely so I'm pleased.



Now all that is needed is to add the cam, lever, and wear indicator.



Followed by a fresh set of EBC shoes.



And the rear brake is ready to go onto the hub...
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Old 03-04-17, 12:18 AM   #84
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

The hubs, unfortunately I don't have any good pictures of them off the bike but they were painted gold and that needed to be changed. To paint them properly first I need to remove the old paint, I tried cellulose thinners, Nitromors, and a wire brush on a drill. But none of it really worked, the closest was the wire brush but due to the intricate design and recesses of the hub the old paint was still there. So there was only one answer, sandblasting. Trouble is I don't have a sandblaster. Thankfully Rolling Art pointed me in the direction of a chemical strippers that they use so a trip to an industrial estate and for an extremely reasonable price very quickly Centaur Stripping took all the old paint off for me.



The hubs were painted in the same way as the back plate (as they were painted at the same time) cooked and rubbed down. All that I needed to do was add some bearings and seals.



All Balls supplied the bearing kits and the installation with my little press started. Don't worry about the little surface rust on the drum, that will come off the first time I use the rear brake, but that might take some time as I don't actually use the rear, but that's another story.



When assembling the rear there is a spacer with a rim on it that should only go in one way. I added some grease to it before sealing it in there with the other bearing. I used the axle to ensure that the spacer was correctly aligned before bringing the bearing down to rest on its seat. Oddly there is only a seal on the sprocket side not the drum side, this is as per the parts fiche but the kit did contain a second seal, I'm not sure if I should use it?



Over to the front hub next.



Same process as before, comparing to my spare set the seal is quite high so that how I fitted it. Lesson for future ensure that you have more photos of parts before disassembly as without the spare to work from I might have set the seal lower.



Anyway the front hub only had one seal like the rear, but unlike the rear kit there was only one seal.

Next I fit the rims so the tyres that are on order have something to attach too...
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Old 05-04-17, 10:53 PM   #85
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

The rims, now I could have just stripped the originals back to bare metal and painted them to match the hubs, but I wanted to do something a little different. And a while back I picked up a secondhand set of Douglas aluminium billet racing wheels.



All I've done to them is to give them a little rub over with some Autosol. There are some marks on there like with the swingarm but that's fine, that just adds character. Interestingly they each weigh about 1.5kg each.



Next the freshly built hubs were installed on the rims. I've not torqued the bolts up yet as I'm in two minds about replacing the nuts and bolts for some new ones as they are showing their age a little.



And finally Bike Treads stuck a set of Dunlop TT93 tyres on for me.

Now before I fit them to the bike I need to sort that swingarm bearing out as it is not rotating smoothly. So I took the arm out and had a look and the bearings are scrap. I think what has happened is on installing the arm I managed to over tighten the pivot bolt as I can see the frame expand a fair bit when I loosened it off. It didn't feel that tight on assembly and its only up to 40nm, but obviously something went wrong. Hopefully a new set of bearings will solve this, but getting the old ones out is going to be fun again...
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Old 18-04-17, 09:04 PM   #86
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

As I didn't have a drift narrow and long enough to knock the crushed swing arm bearings out I took the arm up to Rolling Art Motorcycles to knock them out and take a look at the arm. Everything appeared to be correct on inspection but the reason for crushing the bearings were unclear. I decided and hoped that it might have just been "one of those things" so stuck a new set in and put the arm back in the frame. Unfortunately it wasn't one of those things something was amiss but I didn't know what. So back to Rolling Art to pick their brains this time armed with the swingarm and the rest of the frame.

After some investigation and measuring it looks like the internal swingarm spacer is 0.32mm short. It doesn't sound much but as the swingarm bolt is tightened against the frame the inner races of the bearings are moving out of line and result in a tight and notchy movement. The plan was to put the spacer on the reverse lathe, but unfortunately its made of aluminium so a shim was in order. Thankfully Rolling Art had some stainless steal shim material that was 0.4mm thick and so this was added onto the spacer before having a new set of bearings put in. The arm went back in the frame, was tightened up and all was good, some nice smooth movement.

I now have a frame swingarm and wheels ready, so it was time to put them together.



Forks went in first with the bike somewhat precariously balanced on some boxes as I proceeded to set the steering bearings. I needed to run a tap down one of the lower fork clamp bolts which presented the problem of there not being a M10x1.25 tap in my set. Thankfully a local hardware store had one so I could continue.



I put the original disc back on the front wheel, tightened the hub bolts and then put the bike on a paddock stand before putting the wheel in.



Now a slight mistake on my part as I appear to have forgotten to take a couple of picture of the captive wheel spacers I've made. If I'm honest the bike doesn't really need them as the front and rear wheel spacers are quite long but they were fun to design and make. Basically they are just a remake of the original spacers in aluminium but with a 0.5mm lip on them that sits behind the dust seal so they don't just slip out they make it a determined effort to remove them so you don't have to have an extra set of hands to put the wheel in. And it worked quite well.



The speedo drive is locked into the fork correctly on the front as well so all good to go there.



Onto the rear and a new sprocket (44 Tooth) and retaining tabs were installed onto the hub and the hub tightened against the rim. The wheel then fitted nicely in the arm with its captive left spacer and welded right spacer.

Its starting to look more like a bike now. But back to the front and it was time to add a little bit of stabilisation in the form of a steering damper. Now I know some people will say this isn't really needed for a road bike of this nature and I can see that view point, but remember the theme of the build is 500GP and as most racers have one it would be rude not to.



The damper and fitting kit was sourced from the US via eBay and a company called Parts Traders. The damper is a 7 way adjustable unit made by Billetanium, it looks the part but I need to finalise the mounting points and change one agricultural looking bolt on it.



Looking at the bike I could see steering might be an issue so it was time to fit a set of TCR handle bars. I need to finalise the position of them as well as the fork height and the fork brace but that can be done when more of the bike comes together.



Sitting back looking at the machine I can really see the progress that I've made, its had a little delay with the swingarm but with that fixed so much has came together so quickly. Now the only question I have is considering I'm building this in my house on the first floor, when should I move it into the garage, before or after I put the engine in?
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 18-04-17, 09:15 PM   #87
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

I'm not a racer or into racing mods etc but that's beautiful work by anyone's standards
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Old 19-04-17, 05:40 AM   #88
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Looking really good there SH. Great build thread, I'm really enjoying seeing this all come together.
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Old 19-04-17, 08:29 AM   #89
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Awesome! If it was just up to me it'll all be done in the living room! Hahaha


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Old 08-11-17, 12:56 AM   #90
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Oh dear. I've just noticed how long its been since I updated this build thread, there have been a couple of reasons for this mainly I wanted to have something interesting to add but that took a lot more time then I expected and other things have been taking my time. So here is a bit of a long overdue post.

Firstly I'm still using Photobucket. Sorry. I'm not happy about this due to the farcical charging model they have tried to add, but there are at the moment plugins are available and moving all of my photos and links will be a hell of a job I'm not about to do.

So here we go, I've cleaned up the undertray.



But I'm not going to leave it at that.



If you are refitting the engine you need to ensure that the freshly painted rear mount is in the correct rotation.



This means that the engine can be reattached to the frame. For easy of refitting I removed the damper.



So that leaves a bike with an engine now in it in my front room. And just in case anyone was wondering what my place is like, the best description is first floor flat. Am I going to regret this?
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