Idle Screw Not Working?

I have a 1999 SV650, it's giving me loads of problems all the time but it still just about runs. Had it in for a carb cleaning a couple of weeks ago - the guy said it was one of the worst he'd ever seen. He said the air screw was completely seized and tried all sorts to free it up but was worried about breaking it.

Since I've had it back it idles incredibly low - about 900 if I don't use any choke. (before the carb cleaning it was idling way too high - about 2100!). I've tried adjusting the idle screw on the left of the frame but it just twists clockwise continually and doesn't seem to do anything - I am assuming this is because it is seized at the carb end.

Can anyone suggest anything? I must have spent the worst part of £500 on it this year already (front and rear caliper replacements, carb cleaning, bits and pieces for the MOT) and it never seems to be right. I know it's going to give me trouble all through winter - on Monday I started it for the first time in 6 days and even then it wasn't very happy (running on one cylinder for most of the trip to work, popping all the time)

Is the throttle able adjustable at all?
Not that it would stop the popping but might help the idle rpm?
Have the carbs been balanced since the clean?


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Originally Posted by BigTon

Is the throttle able adjustable at all?
Not that it would stop the popping but might help the idle rpm?
Have the carbs been balanced since the clean?


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Thanks for the reply. Not sure about the throttle cable but can have a look at it tomorrow. Can you explain what I should do and what that will do to improve it?

He didn't balance the carbs no. The garage that did it is run by a man my dad has been friends with for about 40 years so I trust what he told me is accurate. He basically said it was so old and knackered and all sorts of bits were seized that if he tried to force anything he was convinced he'd end up breaking it. All he did was take the carbs off, sonic cleaned them, put them back on and greased the choke cable.

Originally Posted by slaked

Thanks for the reply. Not sure about the throttle cable but can have a look at it tomorrow. Can you explain what I should do and what that will do to improve it?



He didn't balance the carbs no. The garage that did it is run by a man my dad has been friends with for about 40 years so I trust what he told me is accurate. He basically said it was so old and knackered and all sorts of bits were seized that if he tried to force anything he was convinced he'd end up breaking it. All he did was take the carbs off, sonic cleaned them, put them back on and greased the choke cable.

Sorry not too sure how. Maybe trace it back to the carbs and see from that end. It would just increase your rpm slightly so it idles at 1100. There’s a good chance everything on the carbs have been adjusted so a bit of tweeting may be needed.
If it’s as knackered as he said you might be just as well looking for a replacement set of carbs.

Btw... I’m no expert that’s just what I would be looking at if your air/fuel dial is inop


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[R1ffR4ff]

If you have a multimeter check the resistance of your Spark plug caps.They come stock at 5k ohms.Anything over 8k ohms and they are suspect.

The OEM ones are too expensive so I replaced mine with NKG Straights,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Genuin...UAAOSw14xWFpRm

This may not be the cause of your idle speed problems but they can cause all sorts of problems that seem like Carb problems.

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

If you have a multimeter check the resistance of your Spark plug caps.They come stock at 5k ohms.Anything over 8k ohms and they are suspect.

The OEM ones are too expensive so I replaced mine with NKG Straights,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Genuin...UAAOSw14xWFpRm

This may not be the cause of your idle speed problems but they can cause all sorts of problems that seem like Carb problems.

Ah you just reminded me about 6 months ago I was researching another problem (well, probably the same problem actually!) And read that spark plug caps could be an issue. I bought a replacement front one with the intention of getting the garage to replace it when they did my carbs (got them to change the spark plugs at the same time because last time I did it I found it such a faff I couldn't be bothered doing it myself again) I completely forgot I had bought this!

Just looked for it and can't find it so I might just buy another. Are they easy enough to change myself? I remember googling it before and not finding much information

[R1ffR4ff]

You can make it easy to get to the Front Spark plug and cap on an SV with no fairing.

1:Remove horn and bracket.
2:Remove the 3 Rad bolts and push the Rad forward.

What I've done is fit my own louder horn on the front left of my SV and left the Horn Bracket off.



The orange coiled wire is just a Disc lock reminder,nothing to do with the Horn/Electrics.

Then I use a bit of card with some double sided tape onto the Rad as this stops the fins cutting my hands and the Plug wrench damaging the fins but don't forget to remove it after you have done the job.I've cut a similar smaller piece now and leave it under my rear seat with some double sided tape ready on it for Roadside emergency and keep a couple of new plugs under the seat as well.



I also made a rubber skirt for the Straight plug caps as the dust seal off the OEM ones wouldn't work with the new Caps.

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

You can make it easy to get to the Front Spark plug and cap on an SV with no fairing.

Thanks for that it's much appreciated. I do remember it being a bit of a pain at first but since I've done it before it should be quicker and easier this time.

My only concern is that the spark plug caps on ebay are a different shape:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV...1/182073836334
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV...1/182073835470
I'm not too confident in my ability to bodge a rubber seal like you have. Also I notice that on the two above products one is AV1331 and the other is AV2231 - which do I need? Is there any difference between front a rear?

I've just been in to my ebay history and this is the one I bought previously:

I'm really annoyed with myself for not being able to find it anywhere!

[R1ffR4ff]

As you can see from my picture the straight ones work.I just chose the red version for giggles.They've done over 5,000 miles and never missed a beat.

The OEM ones are around £60 for a pair.Total Rip-off! and quite possibly not even new but NOS so could be over ten years old on the shelf so the internal ceramic resistor may have already gone close to out-of-spec.Not worth buying IMHO.

I've not seen the AV223 thing before but this is the important bit,

SD05FMB

and this is the red version,

SD05FMR

The AV bit just looks like another colour designation between red and black but same caps and they are the Same for front and back.

PS
If you can use a pair of scissors and have some old inner tube the skirt is a doddle.

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

As you can see from my picture the straight ones work.I just chose the red version for giggles.They've done over 5,000 miles and never missed a beat.

The OEM ones are around £60 for a pair.Total Rip-off! and quite possibly not even new but NOS so could be over ten years old on the shelf so the internal ceramic resistor may have already gone close to out-of-spec.Not worth buying IMHO.

I've not seen the AV223 thing before but this is the important bit,

SD05FMB

and this is the red version,

SD05FMR

The AV bit just looks like another colour designation between red and black but same caps and they are the Same for front and back.

PS
If you can use a pair of scissors and have some old inner tube the skirt is a doddle.

I managed to find the one I already ordered - put it in such a safe place it only took me an hour to find! removed the seals from both ends and had a look at the connectors and they look brand new, unused. Will use that one on the front and will sort one of those ebay ones for the rear. Thanks for your help on this. If I can just get this bike to be reliable through winter I'll be satisfied