Removing Exhaust a Stud

Hmm a job I think I may need to tackle soon . Out of interest, does anyone know the thread size of the stud so I could replace them with bolts?

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.

8 x 1.25 mm is the thread size I think. I did that from memory so don't quote me on it!

Cheers.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by Spanner Man

Good morning all.

8 x 1.25 mm is the thread size I think. I did that from memory so don't quote me on it!

Cheers.

yeah thats correct, I used M8 x 1.25 stainless allen bolts only the other day for this

[yorkie_chris]

More chance of damaging the threads with bolts than studs

[BanannaMan]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

More chance of damaging the threads with bolts than studs

While tightening down the exhaust puts pressure on the steel threads with the studs.... With bolts you are pulling on the aluminum threads of the head.
And that continues with each periodic tightning...or worse....
The high heat often causes the stud to seize in the block. So if you're using a bolt and try to tighten or remove it...guess what...you've got another problem.
Studs are pretty much the standard for securing exhaust manifolds to nearly every internal combustion engine made. (for a reason)
Replace with a new stud and use never-seize on the threads.

[punyXpress]

And use brass nuts preferably deep enough to cover stud & reduce corrosion and Copperslip the steel nuts seem designed to rot!
Best of luck

[flymo]

Seems that the original Suzuki parts are allen bolts though (at least for the K3) , not studs as you would expect.

If you were going to take off the exhaust nuts for the first time, what would you do to give you the best chance of getting them off without any of the aforementioned mishaps?

[flymo]

Originally Posted by ejohnh

If you were going to take off the exhaust nuts for the first time, what would you do to give you the best chance of getting them off without any of the aforementioned mishaps?

A liberal squirt of WD40 and some time to let it soak in. Depends on the current fasterners you have but make sure you use a good allen key socket or properly sized socket firmly positioned. If it deosnt move you may benefit from an impact driver.

The fasterners for the rear cylinder exhaust brakcet can be pretty tricky to get to, but that can also mean that the previous fitter may not have done them up too tight....if you're lucky.

Above all be patient and dont be tempted to get the hacksaw out ....not yet at least.

Depends on the mileage of the bike and how many winters it had been through, mine had done 4 winters and 33k. One stud nut had a 11mm socket hammered on to it, is its 12mm shape had rotted away. The other one as you know had to be cut off, though next time I will use a nut splitter.