Shindengen Mosfet FH080 replaced stock R/R

[bezsv650]

Originally Posted by Seeker

another thing to check is the condition of the wiring between the stator and the reg/rec, paying particular attention to plugs/sockets. Look for corrosion and signs of burning. Some people bypass the bike's loom and connect the stator directly to the reg/rec using 12 or 14 gauge wire, then connect the reg/rec directly to the battery via a suitable 30A fuse.

Thanks. Nothing I can notice, the cables appear fine.

[bezsv650]

Originally Posted by admin

The bolts holding the reg to the frame should ground it so do a resistance test from those bolt to somewhere else on the frame (engine bolt?).

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

just tested the R/R bolts. they seem to have good connectivity to several ground points including the engine - thanks.

[Seeker]

from what you've described, you have the correct voltage going into the reg/rec but the incorrect voltage coming out. Occam's Razor suggests your reg/rec is faulty.
Was it new or used?

[bezsv650]

Originally Posted by Seeker

from what you've described, you have the correct voltage going into the reg/rec but the incorrect voltage coming out. Occam's Razor suggests your reg/rec is faulty.
Was it new or used?

new, I guess it must be the R/R - thanks again for your help

[glang]

we still havent checked if theres actually an output from the RR by changing the load have we?

[bezsv650]

Originally Posted by glang

we still havent checked if theres actually an output from the RR by changing the load have we?

glang, please explain how I can check for that

[admin]

Originally Posted by bezsv650

glang, please explain how I can check for that

Disconnect the reg/rec from the loom (but not the stator) and check the output voltage, is it still low? If it's much higher it should mean there is something on the bikes electrical system dragging down the voltage.



Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

[glang]

Im not sure the RR can control its output voltage correctly without being connected to the battery - I know on cars they say never disconnect the battery with the engine running...
So I was suggesting measuring the battery volts with engine running while changing the system load. If the RR is working the voltage wont change and if not the voltage of the battery will drop as only it is supplying the demand.
The extra load could be from headlight main beam but better would be heated grips or some other 12v load connected across the battery.

[admin]

Originally Posted by glang

Im not sure the RR can control its output voltage correctly without being connected to the battery - I know on cars they say never disconnect the battery with the engine running...
So I was suggesting measuring the battery volts with engine running while changing the system load. If the RR is working the voltage wont change and if not the voltage of the battery will drop as only it is supplying the demand.
The extra load could be from headlight main beam but better would be heated grips or some other 12v load connected across the battery.

This is true. I only did this for a few seconds. Another way is to temporarily connect directly to the battery, or even a spare one of you have one available.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

[bezsv650]

thanks guys, will try on the weekend