suspension mods?

Hi all,
got a set of hagon progressive front springs on way set up for my weight (15st).
Now looking into getting new rear shock for my k5 s..
Which shock can i fit that involves the least amount of work??!! would prefer not to have to start cutting stuff etc..
I've seen zx636, gixxer thou's, 750's etc..all look like they need battery box cutting..Is there any out there that don't need this?
John

[mikerj]

06-07 ZX10R or ZZR1400 is about the best shock in terms of minimal modifications. All you have to do is remove a small plastic shield on the front of the tool box to get clearance for the reservoir. ZZR1400 is the same length as the SV650 shock, but spring rate is about 26% higher than stock which you'll probably find a bit harsh. The ZX10R spring is about 8% higher than stock, and the shock is 8mm longer than standard (a good thing unless you are a bit challenged in the inside leg department).

I bought one of each, swapped the springs over and fitted the ZZR to a pointy and the ZX10R to a curvy. Both where a vast improvement over standard.

[ophic]

so which stock shock are you comparing each to? because the curvy and pointy stock rear shocks have totally different spring rates.

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by ophic

so which stock shock are you comparing each to? because the curvy and pointy stock rear shocks have totally different spring rates.

OP has a K5 pointy (same as me), so I'm comparing to the pointy spring rate (430 lb/inch).

The curvy has a much higher spring rate and is irrelevant to OP, but for curvy owners the ZZR1400 spring on ZX10R shock is a good upgrade and requires less chopping than most.

[SoulKiss]

Originally Posted by johnmaciver32

Hi all,
got a set of hagon progressive front springs on way set up for my weight (15st).
Now looking into getting new rear shock for my k5 s..
Which shock can i fit that involves the least amount of work??!! would prefer not to have to start cutting stuff etc..
I've seen zx636, gixxer thou's, 750's etc..all look like they need battery box cutting..Is there any out there that don't need this?
John

I just re-sprung my stock shock.

All it needed was a set of spring compressors.

Works quite well and I was about 15.5st at the time.

I fitted a Hyperpro Progressive.

Hagon shock.

Give em a ring, tell them your weight and yer bike, hand over your card details, shock arrives in post and you just fit it. No butchering required. I've had one on my curvy for a few months now and apart from fine tuning the damping I havnt had to touch it.

Don't fanny about with shocks from other bikes, buy the correct one and buy once.

Plus it saves you hours in hacking bits off the bike.

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by bigchris

Hagon shock.

Give em a ring, tell them your weight and yer bike, hand over your card details, shock arrives in post and you just fit it. No butchering required. I've had one on my curvy for a few months now and apart from fine tuning the damping I havnt had to touch it.

Don't fanny about with shocks from other bikes, buy the correct one and buy once.

Could you let us all know what makes a one way adjustable £300 emulsion shock more "correct" than a fully adjustable gas shock costing £100 or less?

No butchering is required to make the ZX10R shock fit, unless you count unscrewing a few screws as "butchering"?

Also after buying a good quality OEM shock which has been proven to fit and work very well, why would you need to buy one again?

These comments smack of someone who doesn't want to feel they have spent way more money than they needed to for an inferior solution to the problem.

Originally Posted by mikerj

Could you let us all know what makes a one way adjustable £300 emulsion shock more "correct" than a fully adjustable gas shock costing £100 or less?

No butchering is required to make the ZX10R shock fit, unless you count unscrewing a few screws as "butchering"?

Also after buying a good quality OEM shock which has been proven to fit and work very well, why would you need to buy one again?

These comments smack of someone who doesn't want to feel they have spent way more money than they needed to for an inferior solution to the problem.

An inferior solution? The correct shock from a shock manufacturer is inferior to bolting a shock on that isn't valved for the spring your putting on it from another shock?

And how is cutting away the battery box undoing a few screws?


These comments smack of someone who doesn't want to feel they have spent way more money than they needed to for an inferior solution to the problem.[/QUOTE]

Smack of someone?

Sounds like you need to learn basic vocabulary??

If a shock isn't rated to your weight it's useless as it can't work as it was meant to in it's range.

To get the correct sag you may end up with hardly any spring left?

But that's ok because a zx10 shock is the same length as an sv shock regardless of rider weight spring and valving so it must be ok????

[MJC-DEV]

I thought only the stock shock is an emulsion type (twin-wall)? Hagon, Nitron etc are gas mono-tubes, even when they have remote gas reservoirs (like Kawa OEM's?). Sure more adjustment is nice but not needed with most people and conditions.
However, getting back to the original question, ZX10/ZZR still best OEM shock as per post #1 asked or aftermarket depends on money to spend (eg Ohlins) with zero 'mods' needed.

I think i'll go for zx-10r shock..will it go straight in then? with existing sv bolts or do i need anything else other than the shock?
i like the longer shock idea too as i'm 6'