Brakes still soft after rebuild

[Bibio]

i'm thinking the anti rattle shims/springs. these are the ones at the top that push down on the pads and only go one way. if you get these the wrong way round it jams the piston side pad. the larger spring/tab goes to the piston side so it allows the pad to slide as opposed to the carrier side which is fixed.

[Markylemin]

Thanks for the help, fingers crossed but I now have something resembling brakes.
I stripped each caliper down again, all was as it should be so back to bleeding again.
I ended up pressure bleeding it with an Eezibleed kit. I think I had an air bubble in the hose from left caliper to splitter (over mudguard).
I still think the hoses are well overdue replacement & could even be the originals!
Thanks again, next stop MoT.......

[maviczap]

If your hoses need replacing, then go to a 2 hose system, one per caliper and get rid of the splitter.

[garynortheast]

Originally Posted by maviczap

If your hoses need replacing, then go to a 2 hose system, one per caliper and get rid of the splitter.

That's what I did about three or four years back and with a caliper service about once a year my curvy brakes have remained superbly efficient. Worth the effort as it takes one of the main air traps out of the system and makes brake bleeding much more straight forward.

[Blapper]

I hate to disagree, but in the interests of balance, IMHO all you get with twin hoses is less neat routing. I have HEL hoses using the original splitter and have rock hard brakes that have lifted my rear wheel on shell grip with short levers. I also have nice neat routing and no issues that are down to the splitter when bleeding..

If anybody here can explain why the rush to twin hoses without using the words 'because racers do it', I'm listening.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Blapper

I hate to disagree, but in the interests of balance, IMHO all you get with twin hoses is less neat routing. I have HEL hoses using the original splitter and have rock hard brakes that have lifted my rear wheel on shell grip with short levers. I also have nice neat routing and no issues that are down to the splitter when bleeding..

If anybody here can explain why the rush to twin hoses without using the words 'because racers do it', I'm listening.

+10.

I like the single hose to double Banjo on the right caliper and small hose across the guard set-up but am happy with my Stock setup.

[Dave-the-rave]

Originally Posted by Blapper

I hate to disagree, but in the interests of balance, IMHO all you get with twin hoses is less neat routing. I have HEL hoses using the original splitter and have rock hard brakes that have lifted my rear wheel on shell grip with short levers. I also have nice neat routing and no issues that are down to the splitter when bleeding..

If anybody here can explain why the rush to twin hoses without using the words 'because racers do it', I'm listening.

Because the twin hose sets are usually cheaper and work just as well.

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by Blapper

If anybody here can explain why the rush to twin hoses without using the words 'because racers do it', I'm listening.

they are easier to bleed.

twin lines are used in racing as its easier for quick wheel changes.

i personally use down & over but i have a gsxr front end with radial brakes.

[Redmist]

I'll add my own experience too!

I have two SVs (Show off) one for track and one on road.
Both have twin steel lines, both have had rebuilds in the last year by me, done in the exact same way.
New pads too.

My road bike has instant braking from even the tiniest lever movement. The track bike needs more.
I'd prefer a middle ground between the two.

Whats the common item I haven't yet messed with? Master Cylinder.

So thats my go to next if the track bike still performs poorly at the next race weekend.

So to the OP, I'd also look there next, seems a shame to waste your efforts so far for a relatively inexpensive rebuild kit.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Redmist

I'll add my own experience too!

I have two SVs (Show off) one for track and one on road.
Both have twin steel lines, both have had rebuilds in the last year by me, done in the exact same way.
New pads too.

My road bike has instant braking from even the tiniest lever movement. The track bike needs more.
I'd prefer a middle ground between the two.

Whats the common item I haven't yet messed with? Master Cylinder.

So thats my go to next if the track bike still performs poorly at the next race weekend.

So to the OP, I'd also look there next, seems a shame to waste your efforts so far for a relatively inexpensive rebuild kit.

I totally agree with M/C problem/Replacement but.....

Just to add.I recently started to have slow speed front brake,"Grab".Having known this problem before on other bikes I removed the calipers and checked the floating Caliper pins(The ones with the Gaiters). Although they appeared to move correctly one of them had a very small amount of corrosion/crud.I flushed all the cavity with Carb/Brake cleaner and I polished them with some 500 grit paper and then metal polish and re-greased.Problem solved.

Point is that these pins seem to be very sensitive to any corrosion or crud that can inhibit their movement so check yours.

HTH