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Old 10-04-21, 08:34 AM   #1
600rob
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Default Exhaust cutting

Want to fit an aftermarket can to my SV and found out that you need to cut 50mm or s up from the weld joint on the stock pipe.

Whats everyone's go to method of cutting through the old pipe?

Im thinking to use an angle grinder as it should be quick and easy...... or is that overkill?

guessing it doesnt need to be a super accurate cut with a hacksaw.....just so long as its more or less square and properly de-burred right?
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Old 10-04-21, 10:02 AM   #2
R1ffR4ff
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

I just used a Junior hacksaw. Yes it took a bit more effort but did a good job. I had to use a 30 Deg angled piece of tube to connect the slip-on on my 1999 naked but I think S version/Later versions etc don't need a bent piece. Then de-burred the edges with a file and some emery cloth,








I used Granville exhaust seal to make sure joints were gas-tight(Fantastic stuff),

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville...YAAOSwdXdgHpKR

and, "Fuel" exhaust clamps,



https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...exhaust+clamps



Note: My slip-on had one of those lug and spring things which I didn't like so angled ground it off and dressed it up.
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Old 10-04-21, 05:16 PM   #3
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

I cut mine up using a reciprocating saw, dead easy & not as wild as an angle grinder, although that was my first option
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Old 11-04-21, 10:43 AM   #4
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

I've just fitted a new black widow end can on my old pipes ( getting newer ones so using as an experiment) I cut the pipe 120mm up from the weld as per the instructions using my 230mm angle grinder (it's big enough to cut right through from one side ) after marking the pipe with a marker pen. I placed a sheet of metal between the pipe & the bike to protect it & the rear tyre, and it worked well & took seconds.

However I now think the slip on is too far back, I'm thinking of cutting more off the pipe and off the link pipe. The improvement in sound & looks is incredible.

Only downside is It looks like I need to put the rear footrest back on instead of the simple stainless bracket I made to stop the slip on wobbling from side to side.

Anyone got close up pics of the joints between pipe, link pipe & slip on ? I'm sure 120mm is too much, but don't want to foul the bracket on the swingarm that holds the bar for the rear brake with the joint clamp.
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Old 11-04-21, 08:54 PM   #5
600rob
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiral View Post
I've just fitted a new black widow end can on my old pipes ( getting newer ones so using as an experiment) I cut the pipe 120mm up from the weld as per the instructions using my 230mm angle grinder (it's big enough to cut right through from one side ) after marking the pipe with a marker pen. I placed a sheet of metal between the pipe & the bike to protect it & the rear tyre, and it worked well & took seconds.

However I now think the slip on is too far back, I'm thinking of cutting more off the pipe and off the link pipe. The improvement in sound & looks is incredible.

Only downside is It looks like I need to put the rear footrest back on instead of the simple stainless bracket I made to stop the slip on wobbling from side to side.

Anyone got close up pics of the joints between pipe, link pipe & slip on ? I'm sure 120mm is too much, but don't want to foul the bracket on the swingarm that holds the bar for the rear brake with the joint clamp.

Ill probably use my 115mm grinder for this on just im case.... Might end up going through the swing arm i used my 230

was going to ask, does the end can sit at a fairly mig-high level at 120mm?

Most of the other threads/info ive found suggests between 50-65mm up from the weld.
(although i am considering one of the high level exhausts from delkevic)
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Old 12-04-21, 04:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

Quote:
Originally Posted by 600rob View Post
Ill probably use my 115mm grinder for this on just im case.... Might end up going through the swing arm i used my 230

was going to ask, does the end can sit at a fairly mig-high level at 120mm?

Most of the other threads/info ive found suggests between 50-65mm up from the weld.
(although i am considering one of the high level exhausts from delkevic)
120 mm was the length that Blackwidow said on the instruction sheet that came with the silencer.

I bought the 400mm long one (oval) & it's further back than I would have liked, I think I'd have gone for the 300mm one had I known. The end can is sitting 180mm from the underside of the tail & parallel with it, using the original mounting on the rear footrest.


I got the 400mm one because I read that the shorter ones can cause issues on one of the other threads, plus I want to go to work on it in the summer & I leave at 6am...

The delkevic link pipe is probably different to the one Blackwidow supply with their end cans.
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Old 20-04-21, 05:06 PM   #7
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

Having now fitted the end can I'd like to say if anyone else gets one it proved necessary to cut off more than black widow say to cut off because the silencer sits too far out from the bracket it bolts to !

I had to cut it down to 70 mm from the weld, which I did in increments, any longer & it was just not close enough to the bracket. I also cut 18 - 20 mm off the top of the link pipe to get the silencer as far forward as possible, because it looked too long & I wanted the strap to be further up to reduce the silencers ability to "wag" from side to side.

After a ride out I think the mixture needs adjusting despite BW saying it doesn't, the idle is not steady, it pops at low revs & it goes into neutral instead of first when I pull up, which it never previously did !
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Old 20-04-21, 06:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

what bike have you put it on because if FI its not so easy to adjust the mixture....
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Old 20-04-21, 07:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: Exhaust cutting

Quote:
Originally Posted by glang View Post
what bike have you put it on because if FI its not so easy to adjust the mixture....
Gen 1 curvy carb model
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