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Old 15-02-08, 12:19 PM   #1
Grinch
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Default Removing Exhaust a Stud

I've had a look about the forum and there was a number of discussions about studs and using copper bolts but nothing about removing a stud.

In this case I managed to get one removed but the other bolt just chewed up and I couldn't thread another bolt on to it as all the thread on the stud had rotted away. So I had to cut it to get the pipe off, this left about a 1/1.5 cm of stud sticking out from the engine block.

So anyone know any good tricks for removing it, other then a helli coil after lots of drilling time.
I could get it to a mate about 20 miles away who will mig something to it to leaver it out, but I need to arrange transport. As it can't be rode as it has no MOT, so I would like to see if there is a way I can get it out myself.
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Old 15-02-08, 12:24 PM   #2
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

Grinch,

in my car once i had something similar to this. However, i had a bluepoint stud extractor set from when i was an apprentice, and used this. Superb bit of kit. Although an inital bit of prep work is required for getting the stud ready its excelent once u get it going. The stud flew out! I might still have this knocking about and seeing u are in pomepy weekends if i find it your more than welcome to borrow it!
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Old 15-02-08, 12:27 PM   #3
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

That would be great... I'm working at home next week so I'll be in Pompy all week...

Don't you just love this place...
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Old 15-02-08, 12:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

i think i do. ive been here all me life. well 28 years of it anyway! ill PM you my number
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Old 15-02-08, 12:33 PM   #5
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

Just for info I found this article on the web, save people looking about -

http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i_explained.asp?hdID=12
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Old 15-02-08, 02:18 PM   #6
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

Afternoon all.

I have found that the best thing for removing broken studs is to slip a nut that has a bigger thread than the stud had over it & weld it on. Noit only does the heat really help to loosen it, you then have something to turn with a socket.
Spray it with penetrating oil as it's cooling as it's cooling down, & work it gently back & forth, rather than trying to undo it straight away.


Cheers.
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Old 16-02-08, 02:52 AM   #7
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanner Man View Post
Spray it with penetrating oil as it's cooling as it's cooling down,
"loctite freeze and release"

used that on dizzyblondes bike, seemed to give it the shock needed to break the corrosion, after that when getting the socket style stud extractor on it they wound out easy as pie.
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Old 16-02-08, 03:23 AM   #8
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

The best solution is to have someone MIG weld (aka wire weld) a nut to the broked stud. Then remove it via the nut.
Even it's recessed it will work as the weld will not stick to the aluminum block.
I do this all the time... and in fact did so today at work to remove a broken bolt from an alternator.
The flash (splatter) from the MIG welder is minimal and won't damage surrounding paint, etc.
I'm sure you can find a local welding shop or car repair shop that will do this for less than you'd spend on taps, extractors, helicoils, drill bits and the like....all that... even at their best...damage the engine block to some extent and could potentially RUIN it.
From a repair shop owner with over 25 years experiance...
Do it right the first time.

EDIT: OK I'm slow...What spannerman said.

Last edited by BanannaMan; 16-02-08 at 03:29 AM.
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Old 16-02-08, 03:53 AM   #9
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

Only a question ....

Would it do any damage to install the header pipe/exhaust with the remaining good bolt and ride it the 20miles to your mate?

My feeling says no...... ?

EDIT: just saw the no MOT bit...... meh, chance it anyway?
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Old 16-02-08, 10:02 AM   #10
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Default Re: Removing Exhaust a Stud

With that much stump, I reckon a stud extractor might well work, it'll leave you no worse off... My set cost me about a tenner from Machine Mart, they're very rarely useful but when they are, they're very handy.
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