Fork Seal Replacement - SV650.org

Luckypants · 17-02-07, 07:07 PM

nothing is simple is it?? New springs and fork oil planned for today but during disassembly I notice my fork seals are leaking.

So how does one replace the fork seals?

What seals do I need? Will a suzuki dealer carry these stock?

Help!

Lissa · 17-02-07, 07:12 PM

We replaced our fork seals a couple of months ago.

Part no is 51153-14F00

We ordered and paid for ours online from Robinsons Foundry. Had them within two days.
http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/

£6.52 each plus postage.

You could also try e bay, they do come up on there quite often, but I wouldn't swear to the quality of aftermarket ones as we've never used them.

Luckypants · 17-02-07, 07:15 PM

Thanks Lissa, will try to get some from local dealer tomorrow (yes open on a Sunday!) since I'm trying to do it all this weekend.

any clues on how to replace the fork seals?

fizzwheel · 17-02-07, 07:49 PM

Its relatively easy. TBH the best thing to do is to go a buy a Haynes manual if you havent got one as they explain it better than I can.

A few tips I can give you...

You'll need to find away of supporting the front of the bike, you cant use a normal front paddock stand as you'll need to take the fork legs off the bike.

Undo the fork leg caps before you remove the fork legs from the bike, otheriwse you'll find it a pig to undo them afterwards as you cant grip the forks hard enough so they dont spin round. Also on the bottom of the fork leg is a small bolt with an allen key head. Undo this before you take the fork legs apart completely as again its difficult to undo it once you've taken the forks apart. As the bolt will spin round with no tension on it.

Take your time and make a mental note of how it all goes back together whilst you are taking it apart. It comes in handy to have a broom handle or something as theres a small plastic stop that you'll need to free off from the bottom of the fork slider and its easier to do it with a broom handle.

Oh and change the fork oil whilst you've got it all apart as if its anything like mine was it'll be useless.

Luckypants · 17-02-07, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fizzwheel

Also on the bottom of the fork leg is a small bolt with an allen key head. Undo this before you take the fork legs apart completely as again its difficult to undo it once you've taken the forks apart. As the bolt will spin round with no tension on it......

already in bits! Do I need to reassemble to get tension on the bolt? Is it the damper rod that needs to be held firm?

What do folks use to undo the allen bolt? I have an allen key with a long tail, but I would end up with very little leverage on th other end.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fizzwheel

Oh and change the fork oil whilst you've got it all apart as if its anything like mine was it'll be useless.

That was the plan, springs and emulators too.

fizzwheel · 17-02-07, 09:09 PM

I had to reassemble it to get enough tension on the spring so that it held the damper rod still so it didnt keep spinning round and round so I could undo it.

As for the allen key, I just used a normal one. I put the long bit of the L up inside the fork leg onto the bolt and then used spanner on the short end of the L so that I could get enough pressure onto the allen key to undo the bolt. A bit like using a breaker bar if you get what I mean.

Lissa · 18-02-07, 01:50 AM

Firstly you might want to buy as new copper washer to go on the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork

51148-41310 is the part number

I bought this socket from Halfords. Which means you can correctly torque up the allen bolt.

And got a length of plastic downpipe to push the seal into place.

21QUEST · 18-02-07, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lissa

Firstly you might want to buy as new copper washer to go on the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork

51148-41310 is the part number

I bought this socket from Halfords. Which means you can correctly torque up the allen bolt.

And got a length of plastic downpipe to push the seal into place.

Sport on post Lissa but ahem ...did you mean "I bought and used....." or " I bought and Pete used...."

. Just checking like

Ben

Lissa · 18-02-07, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

Sport on post Lissa but ahem ...did you mean "I bought and used....." or " I bought and Pete used...."

. Just checking like

Ben

Hee hee................that was Pete forgetting to log me out and himself in again. Mind you, it was WAY past his normal bedtime, so he can be excused

He usually remembers. Surprisingly.

fizzwheel · 18-02-07, 10:29 AM

Thats a good tip about the plastic pipe, wish I'd thought of that it would have made getting the new seals into place so so much easier.

17-02-07, 07:07 PM	#1
Luckypants Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Nr Ruthin Posts: 7,058	Fork Seal Replacement nothing is simple is it?? New springs and fork oil planned for today but during disassembly I notice my fork seals are leaking. So how does one replace the fork seals? What seals do I need? Will a suzuki dealer carry these stock? Help! __________________ "Your Viffer sounds like it is raising hell! Spot on." - Witchery 17/4/08 Snow Plough Appreciation Society - Member #3

17-02-07, 07:12 PM	#2
Lissa Just Ballast Mega Poster Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Rugby, South Mids Group Posts: 4,381	We replaced our fork seals a couple of months ago. Part no is 51153-14F00 We ordered and paid for ours online from Robinsons Foundry. Had them within two days. http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ £6.52 each plus postage. You could also try e bay, they do come up on there quite often, but I wouldn't swear to the quality of aftermarket ones as we've never used them. __________________ If It's Too Loud, You're Too Old! I'd Rather Have Two Big Bangs Than Four Little Strokes

17-02-07, 07:15 PM	#3
Luckypants Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Nr Ruthin Posts: 7,058	Thanks Lissa, will try to get some from local dealer tomorrow (yes open on a Sunday!) since I'm trying to do it all this weekend. any clues on how to replace the fork seals? __________________ "Your Viffer sounds like it is raising hell! Spot on." - Witchery 17/4/08 Snow Plough Appreciation Society - Member #3

17-02-07, 07:49 PM	#4
fizzwheel Super Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Somerset Posts: 3,614	Its relatively easy. TBH the best thing to do is to go a buy a Haynes manual if you havent got one as they explain it better than I can. A few tips I can give you... You'll need to find away of supporting the front of the bike, you cant use a normal front paddock stand as you'll need to take the fork legs off the bike. Undo the fork leg caps before you remove the fork legs from the bike, otheriwse you'll find it a pig to undo them afterwards as you cant grip the forks hard enough so they dont spin round. Also on the bottom of the fork leg is a small bolt with an allen key head. Undo this before you take the fork legs apart completely as again its difficult to undo it once you've taken the forks apart. As the bolt will spin round with no tension on it. Take your time and make a mental note of how it all goes back together whilst you are taking it apart. It comes in handy to have a broom handle or something as theres a small plastic stop that you'll need to free off from the bottom of the fork slider and its easier to do it with a broom handle. Oh and change the fork oil whilst you've got it all apart as if its anything like mine was it'll be useless. __________________ Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition

17-02-07, 09:09 PM	#6
fizzwheel Super Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Somerset Posts: 3,614	I had to reassemble it to get enough tension on the spring so that it held the damper rod still so it didnt keep spinning round and round so I could undo it. As for the allen key, I just used a normal one. I put the long bit of the L up inside the fork leg onto the bolt and then used spanner on the short end of the L so that I could get enough pressure onto the allen key to undo the bolt. A bit like using a breaker bar if you get what I mean. __________________ Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition

18-02-07, 01:50 AM	#7
Lissa Just Ballast Mega Poster Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Rugby, South Mids Group Posts: 4,381	Re: Fork Seal Replacement Firstly you might want to buy as new copper washer to go on the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork 51148-41310 is the part number I bought this socket from Halfords. Which means you can correctly torque up the allen bolt. And got a length of plastic downpipe to push the seal into place. __________________ If It's Too Loud, You're Too Old! I'd Rather Have Two Big Bangs Than Four Little Strokes

18-02-07, 10:29 AM	#10
fizzwheel Super Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Somerset Posts: 3,614	Re: Fork Seal Replacement Thats a good tip about the plastic pipe, wish I'd thought of that it would have made getting the new seals into place so so much easier. __________________ Look Dave, I can see you're really upset about this. I honestly think you ought to sit down calmly, take a stress pill, and think things over. K5 GSXR 750 Anniversary Edition

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