Exhaust Studs

I was horsin' around with my exhaust today and tried to remove the two studs that hold the front down pipe in.

One of the studs was rusted to the nut and both came out as a single item. The other stud stayed put and the nut came off - and i can't get the stud out.

Is it possible to change these studs and nuts for a couple of nice shiney new bolts? Anyone know what size they would be. And any tips on removing the stuck stud?

Originally Posted by New Leaf

I was horsin' around with my exhaust today and tried to remove the two studs that hold the front down pipe in.

One of the studs was rusted to the nut and both came out as a single item. The other stud stayed put and the nut came off - and i can't get the stud out.

Is it possible to change these studs and nuts for a couple of nice shiney new bolts? Anyone know what size they would be. And any tips on removing the stuck stud?

First whack in a lot of plusgas to penetrate. Then get two nuts to go on the exposed thread and lock them together. Then spanner the bugger out.

could warm it with a blow torch? your lucky neither snapped off.

Originally Posted by New Leaf

Is it possible to change these studs and nuts for a couple of nice shiney new bolts? Anyone know what size they would be. And any tips on removing the stuck stud?

Don't change the studs for bolts. If a bolt seizes in then you're stuck with trying to remove it and it's a helicoil job. At least if a nut corrodes on then you can dremel it off and put a new one on without too much hassle.

When I had to get the exhaust on my old Bandit 600 winterbike welded, 5 out of the 8 exhaust bolts snapped, so the engine had to come out for the helicoils to go in cos some were hidden behind frame tubes. I replaced all the bolts with studs and brass nuts. They never seized again.

[yorkie_chris]

Personally I like loctite "freeze and release" for such irritating things, and when they really p*ss me off the oxy-acet comes out.

I would be tempted to use stainless bolts with loads of coppaslip, much less chance of sticking, especially if you take them out and clean them as part of service schedule.

anyone know what size bolts i would need?

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Don't change the studs for bolts. If a bolt seizes in then you're stuck with trying to remove it and it's a helicoil job.

Having a bolt seize and a stud seize is exactly the same situation. You've got a better chance of getting a bolt out. Besides you could still dremel a bolt the same way. Fact is if you use stainless and lube the threads you won't have a problem.

Originally Posted by New Leaf

anyone know what size bolts i would need?

New Leaf, can you send me a pm with your address and I will send you a full set of A2 stainless bolts for entire exhaust. I have stainless bolts of just about any size you need. It will have to wait untill Monday though.

[quote=toonyank;1232372]New Leaf, can you send me a pm with your address and I will send you a full set of A2 stainless bolts for entire exhaust. quote]

What a really nice offer!

PM sent!

Originally Posted by toonyank

Having a bolt seize and a stud seize is exactly the same situation. You've got a better chance of getting a bolt out.

No it's not. A stud isn't meant to come out, it's supposed to stay in the head and the nut should come off the stud. A bolt goes all the way through the clamp and straight into the head - big difference.

If the nut corrodes onto a stud (which is always visible) it's a simple job to split the nut and replace with a brass one after cleaning up the threads on the stud. If a bolt corrodes then 9 times out of 10 it'll shear flush with the cylinder head and then you're into carefully drilling the thing out or helicoiling. Sods Law says that the seized bolt will always be inaccessible behind a frame tube.

Having worked on all manner of bikes over the last 29 years the ones with studs/nuts are the easiest to get exhausts off without having to replace either studs or bolts. It's predominantly Suzukis that use easi-seize cheese bolts that cause these problems, which is why I usually end up replacing them with studs/nuts.

Originally Posted by toonyank

Besides you could still dremel a bolt the same way.

And still leave yourself with a chopped down, seized in bolt to remove from the cylinder head. I'd rather be left with a seized stud that's still long enough to put a brass nut onto and clamp the exhaust again.

Originally Posted by toonyank

Fact is if you use stainless and lube the threads you won't have a problem.

I prefer brass nuts, the car industry doesn't use them on exhaust manifolds just to be awkward. Stainless is ok, but it'll still seize onto mild steel after a while, your lube won't last forever in that environment.

Originally Posted by Lozzo

No it's not. A stud isn't meant to come out, it's supposed to stay in the head and the nut should come off the stud. A bolt goes all the way through the clamp and straight into the head - big difference.

If the nut corrodes onto a stud (which is always visible) it's a simple job to split the nut and replace with a brass one after cleaning up the threads on the stud. If a bolt corrodes then 9 times out of 10 it'll shear flush with the cylinder head and then you're into carefully drilling the thing out or helicoiling. Sods Law says that the seized bolt will always be inaccessible behind a frame tube.

Having worked on all manner of bikes over the last 29 years the ones with studs/nuts are the easiest to get exhausts off without having to replace either studs or bolts. It's predominantly Suzukis that use easi-seize cheese bolts that cause these problems, which is why I usually end up replacing them with studs/nuts.



And still leave yourself with a chopped down, seized in bolt to remove from the cylinder head. I'd rather be left with a seized stud that's still long enough to put a brass nut onto and clamp the exhaust again.



I prefer brass nuts, the car industry doesn't use them on exhaust manifolds just to be awkward. Stainless is ok, but it'll still seize onto mild steel after a while, your lube won't last forever in that environment.

It's always worked for me Have you ever tried torquing a brass nut? Still it won't ruin a steel stud that's for sure. You'll be fine with stainless and I use high temp moly grease good stuff. Lets not mention the auto industry or Suzuki for that matter. They just want your money or they wouldn't use untreated mild steel in the first place.