GSXR front end finished

[650]

I've got the castle nut, you can borrow it DougleG.

This isn't exactly for the faint hearted. You need to do the following:

Buy new bearings (tapered seem most popular, I got mine from Ebay but they're all's balls) they come with new races (a metal cup that sits on the inside of the top/bottom of the headstock)

Tap out the exusting races - I would HIGHLY recommend you use proper punches for this, opposed to a screw driver

Remove the lower bearings from the GSXR triple (assuming the bearing's still on there)

Tap on the new bearings, they have to have a 'home' sound when tapping down, you'll know it when you hear it...it's like hitting a solid wall rather than a hollow one. Same with the races in the headstock

Torque wrench. People will tell you to go by feel...do you really want your top lock nut and steering stem lock nut potentially loose? They require 90Nm/80Nm respectively to torque correctly. The lower steering lock nut is approximately 40Nm

Looks like you have a 650, you'll need magnets and other bits and bobs to make sure the speedo works still.

As it's an S by the looks of it, you should be fine with the GSXR clip ons but if you want a bit of a rise (like the SV) then you'll want TL1000 clipons

You'll likely need the axle from the GSXR as I think the SV650 one is different. I stand to be corrected though.

But yeah, sod off and get your own thread, will ya :P

[650]

Originally Posted by Bibio

Matt would have made you an OEM frankenyoke if you had asked, this lets you use the naked clocks bracket and is the same style as the OEM yoke (with the V cut out).

brake pads, DP pads are superb, nice initial bite but loads of feel. i use DP pads with radial callipers and a bandit 1250 MC and it has loads of stopping power.

looking good

Matt from Topyokes? Could have fooled me, I told him precisely what I was doing and he never mentioned that - he's got utterly no initiative or customer relation skills. I'd rather poke my eyes out than use him again. The turn around was a bloody joke.

What size is the Bandit MC? I know the standard Tokico's on the Gixxer's require a 14mm MC but the R6's require 16mm. I think going smaller requires longer lever travel for more braking force...if I remember rightly. I know going bigger isn't always the answer, kind of like jets for carbed bikes (been there with the VFR!)

[Blapper]

Originally Posted by 650

Matt from Topyokes? Could have fooled me, I told him precisely what I was doing and he never mentioned that - he's got utterly no initiative or customer relation skills. I'd rather poke my eyes out than use him again. The turn around was a bloody joke.

I know that feeling too, he is fubar for sure.

[DougieG]

Originally Posted by 650

I've got the castle nut, you can borrow it DougleG.

This isn't exactly for the faint hearted. You need to do the following:

Buy new bearings (tapered seem most popular, I got mine from Ebay but they're all's balls) they come with new races (a metal cup that sits on the inside of the top/bottom of the headstock)

Tap out the exusting races - I would HIGHLY recommend you use proper punches for this, opposed to a screw driver

Remove the lower bearings from the GSXR triple (assuming the bearing's still on there)

Tap on the new bearings, they have to have a 'home' sound when tapping down, you'll know it when you hear it...it's like hitting a solid wall rather than a hollow one. Same with the races in the headstock

Torque wrench. People will tell you to go by feel...do you really want your top lock nut and steering stem lock nut potentially loose? They require 90Nm/80Nm respectively to torque correctly. The lower steering lock nut is approximately 40Nm

Looks like you have a 650, you'll need magnets and other bits and bobs to make sure the speedo works still.

As it's an S by the looks of it, you should be fine with the GSXR clip ons but if you want a bit of a rise (like the SV) then you'll want TL1000 clipons

You'll likely need the axle from the GSXR as I think the SV650 one is different. I stand to be corrected though.

But yeah, sod off and get your own thread, will ya :P

I have an adjustable c spanner incoming so should be ok thanks. Also have some woodcraft riser clip ons coming in which i can swap between normal rise and an extra inch for a bit of longer ride stuff

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

...thank you for posting this...

...imho, you made your tits too big, but I will not hold this against you...

...they should not be as big as your head...imho...

...I do very much like those frame slider thingies...they stick out a bit much too, but I can see the point of that...

...I want those frame sliders for my bike...

...you have answered many questions in this thread that I did not yet know to ask....

Originally Posted by Bibio

put a rod through the hole in the front of the engine block then put on axle stands.

i dont have a garage and i done mine in my garden. if you have all the bits it should take you a day of easy work, if you go at it it will take 4hrs.

the secret is to make sure you have EVERYTHING you need first including the tools especially the stem locknut tool.

...bingo...!!!...as they say in the states...if you are an old lady...

[ophic]

Originally Posted by Hapo

...imho, you made your tits too big, but I will not hold this against you...

...they should not be as big as your head...imho...

...probably...should...not...criticize... if you... write... every...thing like...this....................................... .................................................. .................................................. ....................... ...

I like your posts. But what is the obsession with ellipses?

[Bibio]

no need to replace the bearings but tapered are nice.

torque settings are for fresh installed bearings, this is to make sure that the races are fully seated.

yes you will need a speedo drive fix on the 650. depending on the number of buttons on the front discs you can use magnets in them, this needs to be divisible by 4, depending on the year of SV you need either 4 or 8 evenly spaced magnets in the disc buttons. if you have an odd number of buttons on the discs then your out of luck and you will need something like my speedo drive kit.