Vibration. - SV650.org

19-07-05, 02:35 PM

Is this normal?
I've had my bike since January ( Curvy K2 ) and i've noticed that the vibrations are getting worse . The vibrations are most noticeable through the footpegs ; particularly the right peg. It gets that my foot starts going numb after about 20-30 miles; my daughter also complains that her hands go numb holding on to the pillion grab.
I have checked the following:-
1. Tyre pressures - ok.
2. Balance weights - still in place.
3. Camchain tensioners - both still working and returning under spring pressure.

This is maybe normal but any suggestions are welcome for a vibe free ride.
The bike had 3.7 K when I bought it , it now has 5.6 K on it.
I ride the bike hard but I can't vouch for the previous two owners treatment; I will say it was immaculate when I bought it so I don't think it had a hard childhood.

19-07-05, 02:38 PM

Carb balance? Also, I've no idea why, but mine felt smoother after I changed the oil. A clean, well lubed chain can make a surprising difference too.

19-07-05, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chazzyb

Carb balance? Also, I've no idea why, but mine felt smoother after I changed the oil. A clean, well lubed chain can make a surprising difference too.

+1 carb sync or balance as you call it

embee · 19-07-05, 04:59 PM

A mate and I bought new K1 SVS at the same time, and from day 1 his was just that bit sweeter than mine. It became a project to sort mine out, which I can happily say I now have, but it's been a cumulative thing, no one item was to blame.

The significant things I'd suggest are as follows -

1) take carbs off, remove float bowls and clean out any crud (simply draining them with the drain screws while in-situ "might" be enough, but taking them off guarantees cleanliness).

2) Check the choke plungers and cables are free, clean, and well lubed (I use aerosol silicone oil/nylon&rubber lubricant - Halfords etc)

3) Remove idle mixture screws, blow through the holes and refit. Before removing, turn them in fully and write down how many turns (including eighths) they were out. Refit them to the standard setting for a start if it's different to what they were (refer to the Manual, make sure you set to the UK model setting).

4) blow gently through as many drillings in the carbs as you can see, Some aerosol carb cleaner with a small delivery tube can be useful to ensure any varnish/gum is removed. Soak as necessary.

5) fit Iridium plugs, they help just a bit with smoothness and even running.
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/ give very good service.

6) check the throttle pot setting. Refer to the manual here
http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm
This really made quite a difference to mine.

7) Balance the carbs. Take your time and get them as close as possible. Worth getting a Carbtune if you don't have acces to decent gauges.
http://www.carbtune.com/index.html

8 ) Try Optimax or equivalent premium fuel. I don't find this makes much difference to mine, but worth a try.

9) You really need to set the idle mixtures once the bike is running. This is not easy on the SV, the access is tricky unless you have a 90deg carb adjuster tool. I do it with a long extension and flexi drive 1/4" socket set with a small flat screwdriver bit filed with a slight radius on the end because you can't get a truly straight drive onto the adjusters.
I doubt many people do this, probably few dealers I suspect, most will just set them to the recommended "nominal" setting (see Manual).
You also need a good feel and some experience to do it successfully. If you're not confident, leave them at the standard setting.

10) make sure the chain has enough slack, they need more than you might think. If in doubt set it a bit loose. Check wheel alignment while you're at it and check the chain runs pretty much central on the rear sprocket when you spin the wheel (the chain is wider than the sprocket, ideally there should be a small gap each side).

11) ideally drain the tank to make sure there's no water in it.

12) put the kettle on.

19-07-05, 05:43 PM

i know this sound stupid but check that the footpeg bolts are done up tight

mine worked a little loose and made the vibes much worse

19-07-05, 06:54 PM

Embee, shouldn't the FIRST thing he does is put the kettle on?

19-07-05, 07:27 PM

Thank you all for your suggestions ; I will work my way through them and see if I can cure this .

19-07-05, 07:30 PM

Oh and embee... I always find pulling a cork to be much more beneficial than putting the kettle on. unless , of course, i'm going to drive.

19-07-05, 02:35 PM	#1
joelowden Guest Posts: n/a	Vibration. Is this normal? I've had my bike since January ( Curvy K2 ) and i've noticed that the vibrations are getting worse . The vibrations are most noticeable through the footpegs ; particularly the right peg. It gets that my foot starts going numb after about 20-30 miles; my daughter also complains that her hands go numb holding on to the pillion grab. I have checked the following:- 1. Tyre pressures - ok. 2. Balance weights - still in place. 3. Camchain tensioners - both still working and returning under spring pressure. This is maybe normal but any suggestions are welcome for a vibe free ride. The bike had 3.7 K when I bought it , it now has 5.6 K on it. I ride the bike hard but I can't vouch for the previous two owners treatment; I will say it was immaculate when I bought it so I don't think it had a hard childhood.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
vibration through bars	bigspud	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	6	02-09-08 05:27 PM
vibration	rallyjon	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	5	24-08-08 08:26 AM
Bar Vibration	SAMMY650	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	5	19-06-08 06:08 AM
Vibration	Giffer2	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	24	17-06-07 12:09 PM
Vibration	Grinch	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	7	12-01-07 03:17 PM

19-07-05, 02:38 PM	#2
chazzyb Guest Posts: n/a	Carb balance? Also, I've no idea why, but mine felt smoother after I changed the oil. A clean, well lubed chain can make a surprising difference too.

19-07-05, 04:59 PM	#4
embee Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2,801	A mate and I bought new K1 SVS at the same time, and from day 1 his was just that bit sweeter than mine. It became a project to sort mine out, which I can happily say I now have, but it's been a cumulative thing, no one item was to blame. The significant things I'd suggest are as follows - 1) take carbs off, remove float bowls and clean out any crud (simply draining them with the drain screws while in-situ "might" be enough, but taking them off guarantees cleanliness). 2) Check the choke plungers and cables are free, clean, and well lubed (I use aerosol silicone oil/nylon&rubber lubricant - Halfords etc) 3) Remove idle mixture screws, blow through the holes and refit. Before removing, turn them in fully and write down how many turns (including eighths) they were out. Refit them to the standard setting for a start if it's different to what they were (refer to the Manual, make sure you set to the UK model setting). 4) blow gently through as many drillings in the carbs as you can see, Some aerosol carb cleaner with a small delivery tube can be useful to ensure any varnish/gum is removed. Soak as necessary. 5) fit Iridium plugs, they help just a bit with smoothness and even running. http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/ give very good service. 6) check the throttle pot setting. Refer to the manual here http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm This really made quite a difference to mine. 7) Balance the carbs. Take your time and get them as close as possible. Worth getting a Carbtune if you don't have acces to decent gauges. http://www.carbtune.com/index.html 8 ) Try Optimax or equivalent premium fuel. I don't find this makes much difference to mine, but worth a try. 9) You really need to set the idle mixtures once the bike is running. This is not easy on the SV, the access is tricky unless you have a 90deg carb adjuster tool. I do it with a long extension and flexi drive 1/4" socket set with a small flat screwdriver bit filed with a slight radius on the end because you can't get a truly straight drive onto the adjusters. I doubt many people do this, probably few dealers I suspect, most will just set them to the recommended "nominal" setting (see Manual). You also need a good feel and some experience to do it successfully. If you're not confident, leave them at the standard setting. 10) make sure the chain has enough slack, they need more than you might think. If in doubt set it a bit loose. Check wheel alignment while you're at it and check the chain runs pretty much central on the rear sprocket when you spin the wheel (the chain is wider than the sprocket, ideally there should be a small gap each side). 11) ideally drain the tank to make sure there's no water in it. 12) put the kettle on.

19-07-05, 05:43 PM	#5
tomjones2 Guest Posts: n/a	i know this sound stupid but check that the footpeg bolts are done up tight mine worked a little loose and made the vibes much worse

19-07-05, 06:54 PM	#6
Glynmitch Guest Posts: n/a	Embee, shouldn't the FIRST thing he does is put the kettle on?

19-07-05, 07:27 PM	#7
joelowden Guest Posts: n/a	Thank you all for your suggestions ; I will work my way through them and see if I can cure this .

19-07-05, 07:30 PM	#8
joelowden Guest Posts: n/a	Oh and embee... I always find pulling a cork to be much more beneficial than putting the kettle on. unless , of course, i'm going to drive.