Rotted fuel tank drain - Fixes?

[BoltonSte]

So I've been helping starks as he's been having running problems. Turns out the drain tube has come away where it is welded to the top of the tank.

He has a fancy filler so can't see the hole.

The plan is to get a new tank on there but in the mean time I was trying to figure out the best temp fix.

Will Araldite be up to the job purely from the fuel/araldite contact front?

I'm planning on sticking a small screw in to hold the tube in place and araldite to seal it.

Need to know sharpish as we're finishing the job tonight and need to know if a trip to halfwits is in order.

Ta

Ste

[Spanner Man]

Good morning.


I doubt that Araldite, or anything else for that matter will do too well, as you can't get into the tank to clean the surfaces.

One product that is resistant to petrol is; Plastic Padding Leak Fix. I've repaired many a leaking tank seam with this stuff, & it's lasted for years in some cases.

You should be able to get some from Halfwits, or a good motor factor, but as I said your problem will be cleaning the metal so the stuff adheres to it.


Cheers.

[BoltonSte]

That's why I thinking of using a screw first.

1. Clean around the top of the filler hole (it is literaly just the weld popped off, the tube is sound)
2. Put in button screw.
3. Apply Araldite or similar around screw threads to form a plg.
4. push down screw and apply more alraldite to top to seal and stop any more water getting in.
5. Get on e-bay and buy a new tank.

Will have to have a look at the plastic padding fix as well.

Cheers Spannerman.

Ste

[Taipan]

My bike has teh same problem and consequently suffering water ingress. What I am going to attempt to do is see if copper brake line with fit through the existing tube, so as to insert it as a liner IYSWIM. Then I was going to solder round the top and the bottom to hopefully effect a permanant repair.

The previous owner had used plastic tube in a similar fashion and sealed it with araldite according to this thread. This clearly didn't work long term as the problem is still there although might well help out in the short term. If you do find a good solution please let me know in case my copper brake pipe one isn't viable.

[punyXpress]

Use Araldite PLUS >>>
Get a length of the thin Scottoiler tube long enough to reach the bottom of the metal pipe.
Lightly smear with Araldite & insert in drain pipe from top ( helps if things are warm for this, but no naked lifgts, please ! ) Make sure none in tube.
Wait to set, but probs OK before then.
Job jobbed.

[BoltonSte]

Don't ride in the rain!

I honestly think the best solution is a new tank and inspect/squirt down WD or similar now and again to stop it rusting in the first place.

Most on the ones that rot part way down are due to blockages, as far as I understand it, and water sitting there.

Will let you know though.

Ste

Mine had this problem too. Used that instant steel stuff and it held fine for the last 3 months only to fail today, coincidentally.
Going to use the tube method now i reckon and combine with araldite / steel. I can live with a tiny bit of petrol squeezing between the pipe and tube and draining out the bottom a lot more than petrol coming up the hole, vapourising out the filler cap mount edge and then re-liquidating itself on the tank paint when i fill to the brim and then go round a left hand bend.

may i ask how and why the tank is prone to rusting, so i can take treventative measures.

[Taipan]

Originally Posted by beabert

may i ask how and why the tank is prone to rusting, so i can take treventative measures.

The drain gets blocked and water sits in the tube and it rusts through. So just make sure you keep it clear.

how about siliconing round the cap? lol Is the drain exit near the hindge?