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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 441
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Ok, i need help (mentally and bike wise)
a few months back i posted about a clunk and shudders. so i adjusted the clutch at the level and it was fine. at an IAM meeting, it was mentioned that i had no freeplay in my clutch. so the observer adjusted it to have enough free play, but then it did the clunking and shudders, which i figured out is that the clutch is trying to drive the bike when level is fully in. now it seems, if i have freeplay the clutch doesnt disengage when the lever is fully in, but if i have no freeplay then it seems to run fine. Hope someone can help, Adam |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Back in Bolton
Posts: 1,010
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Have you tried adjusting the clutch at the other end?
I'm having a similar thing with mine, I prefer to have the clutch set so it disengages with the minimum travel possible, so I just do a 2 finger job, but due to the aftermarket (GPZ) lever it does take a bit more than I'd like. Using the adjuster by the worm drive made a big difference though. FWIW I have very little free play in mine, as far as I understand it's to make sure that going from lock to lock won't cause your clutch to start to disengage that's all. Ste
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Had an SV or three. Street triple R - gone but not forgotten. Now trying the lunacy that is KTM with a Superduke GT. for the pillion capability of course. |
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#3 | |
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Posts: n/a
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Certainly look at the worm drive as Ste suggested. ![]() |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 441
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thanks guys, will do it 2moro when working on the bike.
got new pads to put in all round. may stubby the fuel exhaust aswell! |
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