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#1 |
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Does anyone know what you need to do to the wiring loom to remove the need for the key and ignition barrel? Is it a big job and can I use a k5 wiring loom on a k6 bike? I'd sooner attack a spare loom knowing I can always put the old one back on if things go wrong.
Cheers. |
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#2 |
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Curvy switch uses 3 pairs.
Pair one is main live, replace this with a switch or relay run through killswitch or whatever. Pair 2 is "immobiliser" replace this wire with a 100kohm (iirc!) resistor going to earth. Pair 3 is parking light. Ignore...
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#3 |
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Cheers.
I'll have to check to see if the injected is any different. Nothing's simple is it? |
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#4 |
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Hell no, but that's why you should've bought a curvy
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#5 |
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You could have a point there! Could have had a wet AND dry bike instead of just the one.
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#6 |
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You will find a 100ohm resistor in the switch which if removed will inhibit your bike starting (it will spin up though).
Either leave the switch in or fit another resistor into the circuit once the switch is removed. I speak from experience, make sure it is well protected and insulated otherwise it will break down due to the vibs etc this will then cause your bike to stop. The bike I,am now building may well have the key switch left on. Hope that helps, Pipey |
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#7 |
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Cheers pipey,
don't know what to do as yet, like you a lot of people have told me to leave it as it is. Oh, and thanks for trying to tell me my radiator had gone at brands gp. Could have been a bit of a problem if we weren't on last couple of laps. Thanks hutch |
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#8 |
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YC, the pair 2... what colour wires is that?
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#9 |
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#flicks through haynes to find heavily oil and bloodstained wiring diagram....#
Orange/red to the ECU and black/white to earth on all curvy models.
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#10 |
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Sweet cheers... remote start here I come.
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