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#1 |
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Those of you who have done the Manx and don't mind passing on some hints and tips, here's your chance!
I've done the Manx many times but this year will be my first on an SV. As such there are a few things about prepping the bike I need to know. It's an 06 machine, Minitwin series legal and pretty standard apart from the usual exhaust and suspension mods. So.... Does the exhaust need a 3rd mounting point? (Mounted at head and silencer=2) If so how have you done this? Retaining brake pins - calipers with pads retained by single fastening pins are supposed to be double secured. How can this be done, I can't see any way of wirelocking them? Wirelocking - I'll be locking the axles per the usual Manx regs. Is there anything else the scrutes are likely to want locked aside from sump plug and oil filter? Tank range - will the bike comfortably do 2 laps on a tankful? Gearing - what do you recommend? Tyres - I'm thinking of using Michelin CT2 on the basis they don't need tyre warmers and work OK when not short circuit hot - any thoughts? Anything else? TIA ![]() |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Drill the hex head part and wire around the caliper.
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#3 |
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Possibly we are talking about different types of caliper here. The one I'm thinking of is a Nissin where the pad retaining pin screws in and a blanking cap screws on top of that. The cap has a flat screwdriver slot and I can't see any way to lock that. Arguably that is the secondary locking but as I say I don't want to get there and start having arguments with scrutes
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#4 |
Noisy Git
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You on about the rear one on pointy? Could you replace the cap with a longer bolt and wire that?
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#5 |
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I thought on the Manx you can update the Front Suspension in class SV's run in?
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#6 |
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Hi Tomcat,
pm message sent Jono |
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#7 |
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Re-reading the regs, I think all they are asking is for the R clip that holds the front pads in to have the ends wired together. Actually not a bad idea anyhoo
![]() Speaking to James Holland he is adamant SVs will easily do 2 laps on a tankful, so that's one worry out of the way. That makes sense to me as bikes always do more over there than short circuit. You're in top gear flat stick most of the way at the Manx, not braking and cornering in the low gears like you are at Brands/Snet etc. On my old 500 Weslake I used to do 4 laps on 23 litres ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
Noisy Git
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Flat out you will get 100 miles to a tank dead easy. On my naked, 85bhp or so, flat out on motorway. Managed 130 to a tank #just#. 14.6l of fuel to refill
![]() It uses less flat out than if you are up and down all the time
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#9 |
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Next dumb question, there's an insert in the top of the tank under the filler cap, to restrict access to unleaded type fuel filler nozzles (narrowed down from 4* and diesel). Is it worth dremeling this out to increase the filler nozzle size? which should also improve filling speed and provide some visual indication of when you're getting near the top. The insert also sticks down a couple of inches which would prevent you getting near the top of the tank....... but if you do brim the tank would you get fuel surging out of the cap vent under braking?
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#10 |
Noisy Git
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There is a drain pipe which runs down to the bottom of the tank to let water out, this might be a problem for you.
I'd have a look on the WERA forum, lots of people talking about dump fuellers and suchlike on there.
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