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#1 |
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Hey all. I'm moving to Canada soon, and I've decided to buy a DRZ-400 when I get there. I wanted something that wasn't a mental sportsbike, liked the idea of some offroad capability but still something capable of some urban hooliganism. It needs to not be a write-off if it gets dropped (especially with it being winter) and also capable of light commuting duties. The DRZ-400 seemed to tick all the boxes so I started looking into it more. And it can't be too expensive. Oh, and it also has to look cool, naturally.
So the question is - do I buy a DRZ-400SM super moto and try and get hold of some off road wheels (and whatever else is needed to convert it) or do I buy the DRZ-400?? (the offroad one) and get some super moto wheels? I think the gearing is different but that's about it? Or do I get one with half and half tyres (road legal knobblies)? How hard is it to convert from SM to offroad? So many questions! Any DRZ related answers/help/info would be appreciated - I know there are some people on here that have them. Are they any good? Are there any better alternatives that tick all the boxes? And can someone please buy my GSX-R ![]() Thanks .org! |
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#2 |
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I love mine more than breathing, its brilliant.
I too was considering getting some Sm wheels but they are expensive, you would need everything rear sprockets etc. The speedo would run out as smaller diameter wheel. Better off with a good adventure tyre which will do both, which im gonna do when i get round to it. Highly recommend getting one, they are a right blast, mine will just about do 90mph but it is screaming then. |
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#3 |
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I have the sm, and but motocross wheels. Again love mine but have been using it much more on the motocross track
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#4 |
Captain Awesome
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The off-road (S and E) versions also have the smaller front brake, meaning less power on road, but less chance of trashing the rotor off-road
Unless you plan to mud-plug most of the time I'd say get an SM and fit semi-knobblie tyres for the winter The E version (at least the UK one) has the much improved flatside carb, S and SM make do with the 36mm CV model that's a bit wet in comparison
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#5 | |
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How much power difference is there between E and S? |
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#6 |
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Yeah the E carb is better, or you can get a 40/41mm cv carb that fits easily. I went the whole hog on mine hotcams on the intake and exhaust, 440 big bore kit, 40mm carb plus exhaust etc used to power wheelie in 3rd a doddle. Was a great bike to blast around on, when I get a bigger shed or garage il be getting another me thinks. There's also a k version though rare now as they were only made for a few years I think which is a kick start model so lighter than the E think that's the 1 I want no battery to get flat
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#7 |
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I think it would be mostly road to start with, and then maybe some mild green laning. And then maybe increase the offroading if I like it. (I've only done one day of off roading before but it was awesome).
Can you fit semi knobblies on 17" wheels though, wouldnt that be a bit plop off road? |
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#8 | |
Captain Awesome
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I didn't do it to mine, simply because it's better value to buy a faster bike rather than trying to grab every last bhp gain from the DRZ motor - even with every modification known to man and thousands of dollars spent, the most that the ace tuner on TT could get was ~60bhp - my old SMR was putting that out stock, more with the exhaust and it weighed in at ~40kg less Better to buy a 450exc or something if your lust is for more speed... ![]()
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#9 |
Captain Awesome
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You can, the advantage of a full 21" front wheel is that it'll roll over stuff a 17" may get caught in, ruts, roots, etc... But unless you're really hammering off-road you'll do just fine - in the dry you can just about get away with road bike tyres...
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#10 |
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