running new piston rings and bores in ?

how should i run the new piston rings and bores in ? 6k for a million years or just work my way up the rev range like 1k at a time every 10 miles or something like that

[Speedy]

I think the key is, not to thrash the knackers off it straight away.

And it's about letting the metals get hot then cool, hot then cool.
They wear/bed in nice that way....

[yorkie_chris]

Rest of engine is already bedded in. Avoid low speed/high load situations.

Go and ride gently for 10 miles until at full temp, then with fairly light throttle accelerate to high rpm smoothly in first then coast back down, ride gently a bit more, do same in second etc. When you get up to third you'll need to add throttle in order to smoothly accelerate, this is what breaks it in. Keep this up for 50 miles then change oil and you are done breaking it in.

Do not go flat out, do not let it lug and bitch at low rpm, after every run up to rpm let it coast back down on engine braking to cool off, don't keep constant speed/throttle for a long time keep varying it.

Agree with Chris---------important thing is the oil change,no later than 100miles and it doesnt do any harm to change it again at 500 max.
Even with a brand new engine I change it at 100 again at 200 then 500 building up to max revs after which I consider it well and truely run in. I've never had a problem doing this,not with oil consumption or a slow engine.
I am aware what the book says just my way of doing it.

[embee]

The most important parameter is sliding speed of the rings, i.e. RPM. Don't increase the max RPM you use too soon, gradually increase it as hrs/mls increase. Sliding speed is what can cause scuffing or micro-welding of rings and bores. EDIT - this is crucially important with bores honed at an outside machine shop, they tend to produce surfaces significantly rougher that manufacturers do. Err on the side of caution.

Engine load is a secondary parameter. It's not as sensitive to load as it is to speed (there's only high pressure on things for one out of the 4 strokes).

It needs to be a progressive process. The first 15mins is the most important. Keep RPM to typically no more than about 30-40% of max.

In engine development you'd consider a "full" break-in to take typically around 10hrs test bed run time in a light duty petrol engine, maybe a bit more on-road.

In broadest terms just gradually increase engine speed at light loads and add load at the lower speeds as you ride. Accelerate gently in low gear up to the target RPM, change up and make it pull a little harder then ease off the throttle as the RPM increases.

As time goes on gradually raise the RPM target and allow the higher load to be used for a little longer.

For the first hour or so, the ideal thing (dull as it might be) is to ride round town (as long as you can keep moving more or less, not sitting stationary).

By 5hrs (typically 200mls) you should be using up to say 5-6k RPM briefly and up to around half throttle briefly.

By 10hrs/500mls use 8k and full throttle briefly.

After that it's ideal to try to get some real load on it for short spells, accelerating up steep hills ideally with a pillion works a treat, I use Fish Hill down at Broadway.

Change the oil as frequently as you like, personally I don't overdo this, we'd never change oil during a test bed break-in, filters are pretty good these days.

You can't do a proper break-in in half an hour, whatever others may say.

ok so should i change oil filter after the bed in process ?

and when should i change the oil 100miles - 200 miles ?

[embee]

Well the others have given recommendations, personally I'd say do an oil change at maybe 200mls then oil+filter at 500mls, after all it's relatively small oncost compared to what you've already spent, and it can't do any harm.

One other thing, there's no advantage in doing a break-in in short bursts, you can do it all in one go if you feel like riding all day. A 10hr test-bed break-in would be done in one go usually.

ok cool just wondered because 10 hours usually amounts to more than 100miles ..... got a lot of riding to do tomorrow then

There is conflicting views on how to do it. Best to air on the side of caution and do the usual.

I after reading some bike engine mechanic blog, i tried a different technique. I cant remember exactly how, but i did none of the staying at xxxx revs for the first xxx etc.
I Just rode it through all the rev range from the start, i changed the first batch of mineral oil very very early, then the second batch at the standard recommended milage.

Compression was perfect, and it didn't burn any oil after id finished, cant say if it was any better doing the way i did, but thought id try something different.

^ i have also heard that as well, i think it was some where on hear that it was been talked about